You only need to worry about the locations the oil is getting out. If its just the oil pan then :
drain the oil
pull off the pan (you'll have to cut the RTV seal)
scrape/remove old RTV
clean area well
Apply RTV
reinstall oil pan (torque bolts to proper spec)
add new oil

should change filter while you're at it.

 

it's a sad moment for men everywhere when one of us cant tell if the fluid is oil or not.

 

Only thing I would add is follow the directions on the RTV. Hand tighten the bolts, let the gasket cure for 8-10 hours, tighten to proper torque specs, and then add the oil.

 

Is there any reason why I can't use this: http://cpwstore.carpartswholesale.co...location=Lower

Seems easier than a liquid gasket...

 

I'm sure you could use it. Or you could get a oil pan spacer and just increase oil capacity while you have the oil pan off

 

Ugh, I'm having doubts about the oil pan gasket.

I checked under the car today and there was a bead of oil on the silver part the oil filter connects to (oil cooler I think).

The top half is perfectly clean. If the oil pan gasket were bad, I don't think oil could jump over to there... but at the same time, could the oil from the cooler show up at other random areas (the plastic cover under the car is a mess)

 

The oil cooler has a gasket (O ring) on the backside away from the filter. It's possible this has gone bad and needs to be replaced. The oil will drip and be spread on other parts if this is leaking. My car had this issue when I bought it and it was fixed for free under the powertrain warranty.

Other than that

 

I'm out of warranty, but I think that's the problem.

I even saw another thread where the user said he had his oil pan gasket replaced, but the oil cooler seal was what went bad and made it look like the oil pan gasket was causing the problem.

 

RESOLVED: Oil Cooler gasket has been replaced, no more oil leak

 

Just what I suspected. Glad you found th issue and got it fixed.