lol ive got parts on my table nearby, parts under the table, parts under my box, parts ontop of my box, parts to the side of my box. its all over. slowly comin together tho. next step will be the rear main seal, oil pump, oil pan.

 

Just as long as the parts make it in the motor your all good.. lol

 

Plastigauge is not going to tell you if the bearings turned into an oval when you torqued everything down. You have to gauge the entire motor. At Dyno Proven here, they are currently rebuilding some pice of **** Volvo twin turbo motor that jumped timing all over some piece of **** idle tensioner at 80k miles. The hole motor is gauged.

 

well yes im aware of that, but atleast i know my clearances are within spec so far. new rods, new pistons, new bearings, fresh bore, new main bolts, new head bolts, the motor had 15k miles on it. and just so you know, this isnt a volvo. and what does a idle tensioner have to do with timing? chain tensioner?

 

It has a belt and 1 tensioner went bad at 80k and it jumped timing and the valves hit the pistons and so on... horrible expensive low performing piece of crap, I would of never fixed that.

Anyway I brought it up because the motor is gauged as it's getting rebuilt. No plastigauge is used. There is also 3 built DSM cars in the shop and all were gauged and plastigauge was not used. 400-500 whp and running for years now.

 

its only there for ease of mind. better than not doing anything, eh? so you meant the timing belt tensioner went bad on the turd.....well that'll happen. surely it has a maintenance interval for replacement along with the belt. i built the motor for my crx and didnt plastigauge it...had no problems. takin a mic or using plastigauge.....same diff....just making sure you're not too lose or too tight.

 

That's what she said......lmao!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

thats the fingergauge lol. too loose=no good

 

so im bout as far as i can go for now until i get my heads together, so now im just waiting on my buddy to finish porting the heads. one head is almost done. so i got the rear main seal put on

the baffle plate

revup oil pump and oil pickup tube

and the oil filter stud for an I30 since im bypassing the factory oil cooler


now im tryna think of what color (if any) that i should paint the timing cover? imma paint the top half of the rear cover since some of it is visible as well. any ideas? wrinkle red valve covers, wrinkle black plenum, black brackets/coolant pipes, maybe just a silver for the timing covers?

 

Silver on the timing cover, black cam covers. Just a word of advice BLACK TIMING COVERS SUCK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

thats why im not doing a black cover lol

 

Did you see that Cosworth baffle for the upper oil pan? Suppose to keep oil near the oil pump during cornering but it's $80 for a piece of metal. SP didn't use one and they spun their motor to 9000 RPM.

 

surely i wont be doin any driving that would require such a part. lol. i want this to be atleast 8k rpm capable....BUT depending on how the osiris tune goes and where my powerband falls out....is where i'll set the rev limiter to.

 

I hope it all turns out well for u..

 

so ive got the timing covers painted up in the cast aluminum color. still gotta paint the sprocket covers in black. and i just got in my aem uego twin channel wideband kit. currently looking to use one gauge with dual displays so i dont have to deal with 2 seperate gauges.


and i got in all the stuff for the qx4/pathy coolant bypass mod in as well. as far as the port work...*sigh*....still in progress. one head is one port away from bein done and the other has been started. just itching to get all that mess done! and im still debatin on whether to get the head surfaces cleaned up or not. they are true and straight (unlike frankie haha), but i just want them as clean as possible....idk, we'll see about that. so really the only thing left to order is a new clutch disc. and i got an agency power clutch line ordered too. yay!