some of the pics I had seen before I did the seals on mine, the baffle separated from the valve cover. I thought mine would do the same but, they didn't. I even tried to pull them apart to see if something was just stuck. They didn't separate.

The second valve cover that I did; I actually held it up in the air and drilled "up" so that the majority of the shaving would just fall to the floor. I wouldn't say its messier...either way would be about as messy. just that it the baffles do come out of the valve cover its easier to clean everything. without them coming out, you just have to watch to not get shaving behind the baffle. I then wiped the obvious shavings out and blew air all around the baffles...haven't had any issues.
R&D says you "only have to drill deep enough to cut through the baffles"...I hit the metal lining inside the factory o-ring on every one. That was my stopping depth. Those o-rings were no good anyway so, no harm done. No need to worry about how deep to drill.
You can be the first (other than me) to get one of these bushings if you want. I'll make them cheap.
I'll post pics later to show what I did. have to resize them, first.

 

Ok that makes more sense. I saw some other posts with the baffles removed, but I think you literally have to work to get them off and most likely end up breaking them to remove them.

PM me with a price and if you could provide a pic so I can see how to use it? Unless it's stupidly simple.

 

Great so far, I may not pull the plugs till my next oil change. I couldn't be happier with the way the car is running right now!

 

Hi guys,

I just bought a G35 04 w/ 120K. Afterward, i began to notice the previous owner did not do anyyyyy maintenance on the car, but was in beautiful condition in and out. Shes was a old lady. blahh..

I changed AT fluid, routers, brakes, cabin filter and while changing spark plugs I noticed one plug (driver side, middle valve) was very easy to unscrew. It had a bit on oil on the plug.

I cleaned the valve and replaced with new plug. Im a but worried, because I know the seals need to be replaced.

Is it safe for me to be driving like this? Im generally a DIY guy, but I never attempted a job like this. Im deciding on doing the work myself, but What do think a mechanic would charge to replace the seals? I will check the valve again next week, just to see if any more oil has leaked.

Other than this mechanical problem, its running great. Its a really FUN car to drive.

Thanks all.

 

It's ok to drive like that. It probably will not affect your drive-ability

 

The worst that can happen is the plug will back out and you will hear that and be able to pull over. Otherwise go for it.

 

These oem valve covers are expensive

 

They don't release the part number for the seals even though they don't make them so that's why they charge that much. It's from a 2000-2001 Maxima. It's really ****ing insulting to sell them for $60 when they are less than $3 each with a shop discount and a little over 3 without.

It's those greedy, self-serving, die hard Republicans, you know... thinking poor people owe them ****.

http://www.courtesyparts.com/maxima-...1958_1962.html

 

If they are nothing but O-rings, any seal and gasket shop can size them and sell them for less than a buck a peace. The real cost is somewhere around three cents each.

 

they are not just o-rings. they are a round and rubber but they are much larger and a purpose made seal

 

I can get o-rings that range in size of a pimple on your azz to big enough to go around a fat mans belly. They come in Buna-N (nitrile rubber 180degF), Viton (a DuPont elastomer for high temp 400dF), Aflas (chemical resistance and high temp) to Kalrez (very exotic), and durometers of 50 to 90 (hardness). The first two cost from fractions of a penny each (in bulk) to maybe a dollar or two. The others are used for specialized applications and can cost up to a hundred dollars each. If it's round and has a round crossecton, it's a ****ing o-ring, if it's round and has a square crossection, it's a seal (different category). So, no it's still a rip off.

And don't tell me I don't know about elastomers. I deal with them every day.

 

^^ You def. want the 400+ deg. range. Oil temps exceed 240f pretty regularly.

 

Its a seal. Its not an o-ring like I said. are you the only one on here who knows anything about o-rings? I've dealt with a few, too. like I said too, it's purpose made, I doubt its anything off the shelf.

 

They are not "o-rings".

/thread

 

Different deal then. But $60... Come on.