Oil Consumption Question
Oil Consumption Question
I posted this question in the oil consumption poll, but thought I might get a quicker response with a new thread.
I have an 03 Coupe 5AT, 101k. There was seemingly no issue with oil burning until my last oil change made it quite clear. It had to have been low based on how much drained out. I bought the car used in 2009 with 42k and have regularly changes oil at 5k tops with synthetic. So after this last oil change, I checked after a week, still all the way at H. 2 weeks after that it's 1/3 down from H to L at about 1,200 miles. Does anyone know how much oil that is roughly?
Also, is putting oil in every few weeks a decent measure? I'm not trying to pay for a new engine for a 12 year old 100k+ miles car. $25 in between changes seems like a better option if it doesn't get worse. Not sure what else I can do, if anything. Appreciate any help!
I have an 03 Coupe 5AT, 101k. There was seemingly no issue with oil burning until my last oil change made it quite clear. It had to have been low based on how much drained out. I bought the car used in 2009 with 42k and have regularly changes oil at 5k tops with synthetic. So after this last oil change, I checked after a week, still all the way at H. 2 weeks after that it's 1/3 down from H to L at about 1,200 miles. Does anyone know how much oil that is roughly?
Also, is putting oil in every few weeks a decent measure? I'm not trying to pay for a new engine for a 12 year old 100k+ miles car. $25 in between changes seems like a better option if it doesn't get worse. Not sure what else I can do, if anything. Appreciate any help!
from the "full" to the "add" mark is one quart.
Sound like your burning about a quart every 3000 miles, not too shabby for a car that old. Just make sure it STAYS between the marks or the damage will be done. Check it EVERY tank full until you establish a REPEATABLE pattern. Then you can get comfortable with it.
Sound like your burning about a quart every 3000 miles, not too shabby for a car that old. Just make sure it STAYS between the marks or the damage will be done. Check it EVERY tank full until you establish a REPEATABLE pattern. Then you can get comfortable with it.
Did you check the spark plugs these car have problems with the rear cylinders we've had a few vqs come in with oil in cylinders 5 and 6 probably has something to with head gasket design. Might wanna do a full tune up and check the spark plugs if you haven't done one in a while.
It's an infiniti that burns oil, enjoy replacing your engine if it runs out lol
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from the "full" to the "add" mark is one quart.
Sound like your burning about a quart every 3000 miles, not too shabby for a car that old. Just make sure it STAYS between the marks or the damage will be done. Check it EVERY tank full until you establish a REPEATABLE pattern. Then you can get comfortable with it.
Sound like your burning about a quart every 3000 miles, not too shabby for a car that old. Just make sure it STAYS between the marks or the damage will be done. Check it EVERY tank full until you establish a REPEATABLE pattern. Then you can get comfortable with it.
That was another thing that came up when I was looking into solutions. I am a total noob on oil, but would that cause any issues with the impending winter in the northeast? I currently use 5W-30
With my car with 150K miles, i've slowly noticed an increase of consumption as it ages.
New it was fine
Around 50K miles every 3K miles was just under 1 qt of oil burned.
around 100K miles, about 1.5 quarts every 3K miles
Now at 150K miles, i add roughly 2 quarts every 3K miles.
I run conventional fluid simply because it uses so much oil. Keep a quart in the trunk and I check every 500 miles and add as needed.
It's still cheaper than an engine, and/or new car payment.
New it was fine
Around 50K miles every 3K miles was just under 1 qt of oil burned.
around 100K miles, about 1.5 quarts every 3K miles
Now at 150K miles, i add roughly 2 quarts every 3K miles.
I run conventional fluid simply because it uses so much oil. Keep a quart in the trunk and I check every 500 miles and add as needed.
It's still cheaper than an engine, and/or new car payment.
Or just a rebadged Nissan with better seats.
Oh and also these cars are 10 years old. **** happens. No car is immune from issues.
Oh and also these cars are 10 years old. **** happens. No car is immune from issues.
10W is fine up to negative temperatures and the 40W is used in a lot of turboed engines to keep the temps down vs 10-30. It is more viscous and less likely to leak (why you should switch over). As always, do not race the engine until it is at the appropriate operating temperature.
Mustang, that sucks. Why not have some fun tearing apart the engine over a vacation week and fixing your issue since you are out of warrantee.
I've been trying to find time to replace my shocks and struts (originals at 150K) and the parts have been sitting in boxes for over a month.
Just easier to pop the hood (now that i fixed the hinges) and pour more oil in.
Plus i don't have time to research what a ring job would entail and gather up the necessary special tools and torque specs and other critical info i'd need to know to do it. Plus I don't currently have a place to do it. The Mustang is snuggled up on jack stands in my garage bay and i can't really pull a motor in my driveway without my HOA going apeshit over it.

Honestly, i just want the car to make it to 200K and then it's G37xS time.
No time.
I've been trying to find time to replace my shocks and struts (originals at 150K) and the parts have been sitting in boxes for over a month.
Just easier to pop the hood (now that i fixed the hinges) and pour more oil in.
Plus i don't have time to research what a ring job would entail and gather up the necessary special tools and torque specs and other critical info i'd need to know to do it. Plus I don't currently have a place to do it. The Mustang is snuggled up on jack stands in my garage bay and i can't really pull a motor in my driveway without my HOA going apeshit over it.
Honestly, i just want the car to make it to 200K and then it's G37xS time.
I've been trying to find time to replace my shocks and struts (originals at 150K) and the parts have been sitting in boxes for over a month.
Just easier to pop the hood (now that i fixed the hinges) and pour more oil in.
Plus i don't have time to research what a ring job would entail and gather up the necessary special tools and torque specs and other critical info i'd need to know to do it. Plus I don't currently have a place to do it. The Mustang is snuggled up on jack stands in my garage bay and i can't really pull a motor in my driveway without my HOA going apeshit over it.

Honestly, i just want the car to make it to 200K and then it's G37xS time.








