Drove my car home with no signs of issues and shut it off to run inside and get ready for work. What a difference 2 minutes can make. Went out to start it and it just cranks. Temperature gauge reads cold which is false. Fans turn on immediately and stay on. Tried connecting to the ecu to read any codes with NDS2 and won't connect. Connected to the tcm and abs and pulled 3 codes.
ABS
- U1000 CAN COMM CIRCUIT
-C1136 ENGINE SIGNAL 6
TCM
-U1000 CAN COMM CIRCUIT

Found a very loose ground at the front of the engine that I took off with my hand. Tightened it back down and still nothing. Maybe that ground blew something? I'm stumped at where to even start with these symptoms. Check for spark? When I turn the ignition to on I get these lights on the dash. I always thought they go off when the engine starts. If anyone has suggestions throw em my way.

 

First thing i'd try would be disconnecting the battery and leave it disconnected for a while, maybe 30 minutes. After you have disconnected it pump the brakes to dissipate any power left in the electrical system. Hook it back up and see what happens. If still the same, have the battery tested because weak/dying batteries cause havoc with our cars pretty often. Go through and check all of your grounds and where possible disconnect them, clean them and their contact points with a wire brush then add some dielectric grease and re-install. Great read on the grease here: http://www.w8ji.com/dielectric_greas...ive_grease.htm

If you have to replace the battery and you still have the same issues I don't know what direction to point you to. I'm sure you'll get more feedback but whatever the final solution is update this thread so we will know, thanks and good luck.

 

I suspect the U1000 code was that loose ground wire on the timing chain cover, I'd start by cleaning the entire ground system, especially since you had the motor out recently and you already found one loose wire. Use a wire brush, electrical anti-oxidation grease, get the bonding jumper from timing chain cover to under the coolant reservoir, and the jumper from the chassis to the negative battery terminal.

Wipe codes and see if anything comes back, definitely sounds like an electrical problem though.

It's not LIKELY but still possible you blew a fuse, the most likely point would be the fusible link but I would verify the ground circuit is complete first.

 

Got the car towed to my mechanic this morning. The driver was rude. Tried telling me my car was lowered and won't be responsible for any damage. He didn't believe my car was stock height and we went back and forth. Then he was pissed that I had a kuruma z bumper and couldn't hook up a tow hook that he expected me to have. Told him last time my car was towed WITH the factory bumper they still hooked the chains underneath. In the end he had wood planks FOR low cars and the car cleared the ramp by at least a couple inches.
Update from the mechanic was a blown ignition fuse. After starting it blew the same fuse. So he went through all the grounds and cleaned them up. He said its weird cause they weren't even bad but mentioned the one under the coolant reservoir could've fix it. A couple hours of labor later and I was on my way. These cars really are sensitive. I thought there's only an ignition relay and not a fuse. I checked the fuses and looked good but had no idea how to check the relays. He wasn't there when I got the car so I plan to get gas there tomorrow morning and get more info. Curious also which brand he prefers for suspension parts.