Ok peeps, so here's my story. This morning (yesterday) i went out to the garage like i do every work day and threw my things in the coupe and reached over to crank it up from the passenger side while i went back in for my coffee, turned the key and the car spun over and spun over and did not crank, i shut off all power and did it again (never happened before) and it started up after turning over for a few seconds... i let it run for a minute and got in the car, backed out of the garage and headed down the street to the stop sign that is about 250-300 yards away and the car just stopped running about 70 yards before the stop sign(automatic trans BTW) so i bumped it to neutral and costed to the stop sign. Once stopped I put the car in park and tried starting it again and it would only crank, but not start so i walked back to the house and got my truck and pulled it back home and left for work in my truck so i wouldn't be late. Once i got home from work I tried again and it will do nothing but spin over, no lights on in the cluster indicating anything so I came inside and grabbed the spare key thinking the other key lost program (both keys are new as of two weeks ago) and neither key will actually start the car ruling out a key programming issue (what are the odds of both keys loosing programming..) I can hear the fuel pump prime when i switch on the ignition and although the fuel gauge is wrong (typical problem) I know i still have at least 7-8 gallons of fuel left in the car due to only having put on 200 miles since last fill up. Anyone know where i need to start with the diagnosis? I do not have a scan tool, however a friend of mine has a very nice Snap-On scanner that i may can use if i can get him to answer the phone when i wake up later today. Any expert advice would be greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance!!

 

Ok there was some contradictory stuff in your post and I want to make sure I understand you correctly.

The engine WILL CRANK but WILL NOT START.

Nothing on the instrument cluster lights up.

Is this correct?

 

the normal lights on the cluster engine, seatbelt, oil, VDC etc etc light up when the car is turned on, but i do not see any indication of engine light staying on after the fact of the normal electrical cycle. Yes, the car will CRANK over but will not fire up and run, i checked all the fuses in the inside panel and under the hood by the battery last night as well.

 

While cranking do you see the rpm's move at all on the tachometer?

Usually problems like this are a bad cam or crank sensor but you need to isolate what the actual problem is so you aren't throwing money at the car hoping something fixes it but I would start by adding 1 gallon of fresh gasoline to the tank just to rule out that someone didn't siphon your tank. The fuel gauge can be unreliable (notorious for failing) so even if it says you have a half-tank I would still verify by adding a gallon of fuel.

 

I am going to see if the RPM needle moves when i turn it over now and i will come right back inside and let you know. I am not concerned with the accuracy of the fuel because the gauge has been messed up for some time now after me pulling the units out and cleaning the board with contact cleaner and Q-tips and inserting back in tank (gauge actually read accurate for one full tank then quit reading correctly again after that next fill up) I can drive 380 miles safely before refueling and I currently only have 220 miles on the tank right now, and as far as someone stealing fuel i am not concerned because i have been nowhere but work and home since i filled up the car tuesday and i keep it parked inside my garage at home and my neighborhood is pretty well protected. Ill be right back inside in about 10-15 minutes to report on RPM needle movement.

 

the tach needle DID NOT move while turning the car over.

 

Friend is on his way with scan tool, most likely a cam sensor according to him so he is picking up both left and right bank sensors on his way here and if one is bad we will replace both and I will go by Infiniti Monday and buy the OEM ones to swap out with after market ones. Fingers crossed that this is the problem.

 

If the RPM needle didn't move it could be your crank sensor. I'd swap that first then try again.

 

either way I will have all new sensors on it being it has over 200k on the ODO, he is picking up the crank sensor as well.

 

Runs like it should now! Crank sensor! It pays to have friends who are mechanics with scan tools and parts accounts at local parts stores! Now on to the fuel gauge problem now