Help! Slave not engaging clutch fork after replacing
#1
Help! Slave not engaging clutch fork after replacing
Changed clutch and flywheel, now my clutch pedal goes to the floor without actually putting pressure on the pressure plate... The fork moves freely for the clutches full travel. I haven't tried anything yet to fix given I finished last night very late, but anyone have ideas that doesn't involve dropping the tyranny again? What went wrong? I never opened the clutch hydraulic system. Need to fix before Tuesday!
#2
I should clarify that the clutch does disengage but past the point where the pedal is hitting the floor, you have to manually move the fork. Are clutch cylinder spacers a thing? I'm thinking I might have to machine something that adds an inch to the slave's length...
I changed the TOB and clutch ball and I'm 99.99 sure it's all seated properly... Engine starts and revs fine in N
I changed the TOB and clutch ball and I'm 99.99 sure it's all seated properly... Engine starts and revs fine in N
#3
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Washington State
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The clutch fork shouldn't be able to be actuated by hand, there should he so much pressure on it from the clutch pressure plate that you can't move it without basically putting your entire body weight against it.
You're sure it was seated into the rocker ball thing inside the transmission housing? And I'm not sure it's even possible to do this wrong but the TO bearing didn't get installed backwards did it?
You're sure it was seated into the rocker ball thing inside the transmission housing? And I'm not sure it's even possible to do this wrong but the TO bearing didn't get installed backwards did it?
#4
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#5
As usual I ran to the forums too soon. just had to adjust the clutch pedal a bunch and it's perfect now.
The new assembly must be different in length for some reason, the difference between old worn components and new..?
Turns out the old pressure plate was an ACT HD which I would have reused if my new oem z1 mild clutch and flywheel weren't already machine balanced as a unit
The new assembly must be different in length for some reason, the difference between old worn components and new..?
Turns out the old pressure plate was an ACT HD which I would have reused if my new oem z1 mild clutch and flywheel weren't already machine balanced as a unit
Last edited by cswlightning; 02-17-2019 at 03:11 PM.
#6
Not sure why it happens, but that happened both times I've changed clutches on a G as well.
Regardless, sounds like you already learned that you have to adjust the pedal all the way back (master cylinder piston fully retracted vs pedal) before you bleed, then when you're done bleeding readjust the pedal to wherever you prefer.
Regardless, sounds like you already learned that you have to adjust the pedal all the way back (master cylinder piston fully retracted vs pedal) before you bleed, then when you're done bleeding readjust the pedal to wherever you prefer.
#7
I never even bled it, just took the bolts out and moved the SC to the side while doing the install. PO already installed an aftermarket cylinder and SS clutch line so I'm good there. Clutch feels fine, not sure that I want to bleed it and risk messing something up when everything working great.
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