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The HR has a starter that mounts on the driver’s side (left) whereas the DE starter is mounted on the passenger side (right). The HR starter may make contact with your DE steering shaft. So, the HR stering rack puts the shaft at a different angle giving it more room and clearance for the starter.
zfever does harness conversions. But their solution for VHR is to somehow run both DE and VHR ECUs side by side.
You can also use a first gen X rack as it has the starter on that side also. Used non leaking racks are hard to find and rebuilds are at least $150.
Great job on the pump, I'm in for updates and to clear up all the misinformation
The HR has a starter that mounts on the driver’s side (left) whereas the DE starter is mounted on the passenger side (right). The HR starter may make contact with your DE steering shaft. So, the HR stering rack puts the shaft at a different angle giving it more room and clearance for the starter.
zfever does harness conversions. But their solution for VHR is to somehow run both DE and VHR ECUs side by side.
I’ll put the steering shaft in to find out this weekend, but just looking at it, it looks like there’s room.
The Zfever harness conversion is over $2000, plus $450 for uprev with NATS delete. I am on somewhat of a budget. That’s why I didn’t go with them. Both Guilty Garage and Hexa are both much cheaper. I’m at $775 plus shipping with Guilty, that includes uprev license and NATS delete. He guarantees quality work with no butt connectors or solder. Once it’s in my hands I will post that up.
Looks good, can barely even see the starter looking through from inside the car. And from the top. Steering shaft not even close to the starter. It’s maybe an inch from the exhaust manifold, at the very least. Plenty of room. edit: it actually forward of the steering shaft joint, with the angle of my pic it looks even closer than it actually is.
Just got under the car for another pic of clearance. Only close thing is the rack pressure line to starter, but that can easily be tweaked if desired. With a good set of motor mounts I don’t see it ever being an issue.
How did you attach the slave for the clutch. And fuel line
For the fuel connection, I used a 2008 HR 350Z fuel damper line, the one that goes between the chassis feed line and the fuel rail port. I had to bend the feed line a bit to match.
I converted the car to manual, I used ZSpeed HD CSC, wilwood master cylinder, and their stainless braided line in between.
-the swap is running. I have been on a long hiatus from the build dealing with some personal issues, but I’m starting back up with it, so I may be due for some updates here soon. After I finish the sleeved LS build on our 8 second S197 (for reliability) that’s a priority, I plan on finishing the G35.
Wish you had a YT channel showing steps Yoo trust.
where are you guys located?
mines a 6 speed already but I’m looking into getting gear box n motor “have to”
I have lots questions.
do I need to change diff, drive shaft, z1 mounts or can stock rock for now? I know you said something about the hr rack. I’m going to be doing a super budget build as well lol
”I wish I had a daily”
swapping my daily is really good too much rush!
I’ve swapped out to a VHR. I got the harn two weeks now. And I can’t start her up. No fuel no spark and my obd2 port doesn’t work.
I need some advice please. WPB FL Area
The HR has a starter that mounts on the driver’s side (left) whereas the DE starter is mounted on the passenger side (right). The HR starter may make contact with your DE steering shaft. So, the HR stering rack puts the shaft at a different angle giving it more room and clearance for the starter.
zfever does harness conversions. But their solution for VHR is to somehow run both DE and VHR ECUs side by side.
Guilty Garage for harness fix on vq37vhr into my g35 coupe? their address? also I need to know what manual trans I need? Thanks
