Hello. I have a 2004 Infiniti g35 sedan. With 80k miles.. one day after work i noticed i had coolant leaking pretty badly from under my car.. my father suggested i use bars radiator fix solution.. so i went and bought a bottle and did exactly how the instructions said to do.. after i poured it in i drove around for 15-20 mins how the instructions said to do.. the car started to overheat so i quickly turned off the car and waited.. i then started it and drove back home.. i left the car on for another 15 mins but it never over heated.. so i thought the problem was fixed.. i then drove work and while on freeway the car started overheating. I put the car in neutral and the car died on me.. i was able to start it again and started driving and again it started overheating and i put it once again in neutral and it once again died.. i wasnt able to start car. Had to get it towed backhome.. the engine cranks but doesnt start up.. can anyone help me please. What can be the problem?

 

Drain the coolant system to get that stopleak out of the system, you should NEVER use coolant stopleak in a modern vehicle, FIX THE PROBLEM not pour snake oil into the coolant.

To fix the coolant leak:

-Rent a pressure tester, install it, watch where either coolant spews out or listen for air, if it's a slow leak you might need to use a soapy mix of dishwashing soap and water and spray it on all the fittings until you find the leak. Main culprit is the radiator, the hoses, and the air purge screw on the smaller hose going to the heater core. Don't forget to pressure test the CAP while you're at it.

Next tackle why the engine won't start, first things first, check your oil, does it look milky white? If YES then you blew the head gasket and need a new engine, if NO then you should pull all the spark plugs and inspect. If they're wet then you blew the engine, if they're fouled you need to replace them.

While the engine is cranking, is the light on the left hand side of the dash solid red? If YES then NATS is interlocking your ignition, usually because it doesn't recognize the key transponder, get it programmed.

Did you run out of fuel? Don't rely on the gas gauge, buy 1 gallon of fresh premium gasoline and pour it in the tank. Did the engine start? If YES then your gauge doesn't work anymore, fairly common on this platform unfortunately. Steps to troubleshoot the pump sending resistance are in section DI - Driver Information of the FSM.

To check for spark, wear a leather glove, take out a spark plug, plug it into the coil pack and hold the ground strap (hook part on the end of the spark plug) about 1/4" away from the intake manifold aluminum while someone else cranks the motor. Do you have spark? If YES then it's not a cam/crank sensor problem (probably).

To check for fuel pressure, buy the sandwich adapter from Z1 Motorsports and install it on the passenger fuel damper, there is no fuel service port unfortunately so you need to add one to use a gauge, be aware the system is under pressure so before pulling bolts out you need to pull out the fuel pump relay and crank the motor a few times to bleed the pressure off.

https://www.z1motorsports.com/z1-pro...rt-p-9160.html

Here's a link to the Factory Service Manual FSM. I strongly recommend downloading each section for your vehicle, it starts at the document FWD.

https://www.nicoclub.com/archives/in...e-manuals.html

In the future you should probably take any advice from your dad with a grain of salt, and always seek a SECOND OPINION. Things like radiator stopleak were a fad during the 80's that has no application on a modern vehicle, even back in the day it was basically a bandaid to limp yourself back into town so you could get the problem FIXED. I used to just grab a handful of sagebrush or cheatgrass off the side of the highway and grind it up with my hands and pour into the radiator, does the same thing basically, you can usually limp home but it's not a fix.

Just out of curiosity how hot did it get EXACTLY, did you peg the needle even once?