Anyone here used ACL Racing main bearings, rod bearing, and thrust washers on build?
Anyone here used ACL Racing main bearings, rod bearing, and thrust washers on build?
Was wondering opinions or experience with ACL Racing main bearings, rod bearings, and thrust washers. They are one size fits all for VQ35DE motors, but seems thru research that is due to multi-layer metal design to crush to fit correctly; with greatly improved oil flow and high rpm reliability. I ordered all today. I looked up and crossreferenced thru my engine block and crankshaft stamps and etching to see what my engine was built with, but had just under 200K on motor before I tore it down. So what it was built with is not what tolerances will be now most likely. I was leaning towards staying OEM bearings, but was really wanting the added security of increased oil flow. So pulled the trigger on the ACL Racing stuff and ordered. Just wondering if anyone has used them for build and can lend some info likes or otherwise.
2003 6MT Coupe
JWT PopCharger filter, 6"to4" velocity stack to intake piping, 4" intake tubing and couplers, 75mm T.B., plenum spacer, ported intake plenum and intake runners, Stage 2 ported and polished heads, gasket matched transitions throughout, upgraded to VQ35HR OEM head gaskets with JWT cooling channel mod for increased water flow to cylinders, Brian Crower springs, Brian Crower 272 cams, VQ35HR oil pump, chromoly lightened flywheel and lightened pullies, UpRev and planning of raising rev limit up to 7600-7800 I believe. Equal length stainless race headers, Motordyne ART pipes, Motordyne Shockwave exhaust.
Will be regearing rear diff to 4.083 with full rebuild. Full Whiteline bushings throughout entire suspension, rear sub suspension, differential, etc. Will be installing diff brace also before car hits the road.
No bashing of trash please, looking for educated opinions and advice or input please. Installing new seals, gaskets, and o rings on build up as well. New timing chain and all, new valve covers. Engine oil cooler with electric fan on it, and oil catch can. All silicon hose upgrades, Mishimoto race thermostat. Trying to do everything preventative or overkill while I'm in here. Never plan on boosting this engine. Will stay N/A or I will be planning a 2JZ big turbo engine build if this isnt enough or I want more.
2003 6MT Coupe
JWT PopCharger filter, 6"to4" velocity stack to intake piping, 4" intake tubing and couplers, 75mm T.B., plenum spacer, ported intake plenum and intake runners, Stage 2 ported and polished heads, gasket matched transitions throughout, upgraded to VQ35HR OEM head gaskets with JWT cooling channel mod for increased water flow to cylinders, Brian Crower springs, Brian Crower 272 cams, VQ35HR oil pump, chromoly lightened flywheel and lightened pullies, UpRev and planning of raising rev limit up to 7600-7800 I believe. Equal length stainless race headers, Motordyne ART pipes, Motordyne Shockwave exhaust.
Will be regearing rear diff to 4.083 with full rebuild. Full Whiteline bushings throughout entire suspension, rear sub suspension, differential, etc. Will be installing diff brace also before car hits the road.
No bashing of trash please, looking for educated opinions and advice or input please. Installing new seals, gaskets, and o rings on build up as well. New timing chain and all, new valve covers. Engine oil cooler with electric fan on it, and oil catch can. All silicon hose upgrades, Mishimoto race thermostat. Trying to do everything preventative or overkill while I'm in here. Never plan on boosting this engine. Will stay N/A or I will be planning a 2JZ big turbo engine build if this isnt enough or I want more.
Last edited by JoeMag; Nov 4, 2019 at 08:49 PM.
Honestly since you're not forced induction and are going to top MAYBE 300 whp you should just stick with the OEM bearings for longevity. Race bearings are meant to last as long as the race engine, not very long usually, but they can withstand 800+whp without failure. A hard running motor might only have a lifespan of about 20k miles before it's due for a rebuild.
I'd be more concerned with oiling at that rpm, you probably need to swap to a dry sump if you're actually planning on going to almost 8k rpm.
EDIT: Call them and see what they recommend for your application, when in doubt ALWAYS CALL the manufacturer for their advice. It's what they do for a living.
I'd be more concerned with oiling at that rpm, you probably need to swap to a dry sump if you're actually planning on going to almost 8k rpm.
EDIT: Call them and see what they recommend for your application, when in doubt ALWAYS CALL the manufacturer for their advice. It's what they do for a living.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
BradMD_96
Engine, Drivetrain & Forced-Induction
3
Feb 26, 2016 03:25 PM





