Hey guys my car was starting fine last time I started it but I tried to move it into garage and it was just cranking. Opened hood to what is going on and it smelled like something was on fire. Smoke was coming from my wiring harness and the MAF wires seem to have melted to the plastic on MAF.

im gonna order a new MAF but I am wanting to change engine harness. What harness is interchangeable?
I have 05 6mt vq35de
also anybody have a good place I can get a bcm for my car as well?

thanks Joseph

 

The wiring harness is going to be expensive, I strongly recommend you take your MAF down to a pick-n-pull and find another Nissan harness that will plug into it. Anything from a DE equipped 350Z, G35, M35, FX35 should work and I'm sure there's other Nissan vehicles that use the same harness. Probably ANYTHING with a VQ35DE uses the same MAF so look for Maxima/Altima as well. The harness will have to come from another rev-up G35 and that's going to be rare and expensive.

Then just cut off the part of the harness that connects to the MAF and solder a new one on.

Was the only wiring that's melted the MAF wires? If so I suppose it could have shorted internally and caused the electrical fire. However it's supposed to be fuse protected in the IPDM by fuse 77, a 15amp fuse that also supplies power to the ECM. Unless you have some kind of electrical ****ery going on and it's been modified by someone it should have popped that fuse before it melted the insulation off the wire.

BCM is much easier, get the exact model number off your and buy one on eBay, you will have to have it programmed at the dealership but you can usually call ahead to the service department, schedule the appointment, then swap the BCM in their parkinglot and have them program it right there rather than paying an extra hour of labor for THEM to swap the BCM. Just make sure to unplug the battery first or you're probably going to fry stuff.

Question about the starting, how long were you cranking the engine for, it's common to melt the primary power wire if you're cranking for more then 10 seconds at a time and not allowing sufficient cooldown time between cranks. That's USUALLY the cause of smoke/burning smell when people are trying to start an engine, or overheating the armature in the starter which was never designed to crank for long sustained periods unless it's a specific type of starter built for the purpose.

 

yeah I remembered you telling me to match numbers with bcm. I probably was trying to crank it for 15 seconds maybe.

I don't believe. I have the revup I'm sure to believe that it's just a stock DE, so could I get a harness from any car that has the DE? Engine in it?

 

2005 with the 6MT had the rev-up VQ35DE, not to be confused with the VQ35HR motor.

The rev-up has exhaust cam timing added to it, 2 extra cam phase sensors and exhaust cam actuators. You can easily tell which engine by looking at the cam advance covers.

 

Your right I have a rev up where does one usually get a extra rev up harness can I get it off of another z/g with revup engine in it ?

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I would just buy one off eBay if you can't find one locally.

 

ive run some codes and I'm getting
ecm p1564 and p0113 I know one has to do with my cruise control but other is iat will a bad MAF cause my car to not even start at all? I've dealt with some bad mags but car would start but idle rough. Any insight would be appreciated. New MAF coming in mail
red light stays solid when cranking.

 

Red light solid while cranking means NATS/IVIS interlock, the engine will crank but the ECM won't open the injectors or fire the coil packs because it doesn't recognize the key in the ignition. Normally it just requires the BCM to be programmed to accept the keys again.

P0113, IAT sensor (built into the MAF it's all one unit) won't prevent the engine from STARTING but it will limp mode the car.

P1564 is the cruise control switch, try aggressively working the switch and tap on it gently with the handle end of a screwdriver. Sometimes the switch can get stuck in the closed position, especially if someone has ever spilled their soda on the steering wheel and it got into the switch.

Since the wires going to the MAF cooked and you are getting an IAT code you need to verify that circuit is still intact and not open/shorted. Pin 5 on the MAF harness goes to pin 34 on the ECM, it should not have any continuity to ground. Pin 6 on the MAF goes to pin 67 on the ECM. The ECM supplies the ground so with it disconnected from the ECM you should not have continuity to ground. You shouldn't have continuity between those pins.

I would ring out ALL the wires on the MAF not just the IAT side I listed, pinouts are all in the FSM.

 

I had a locksmith come out yesterday and he said key is still programmed but I believe he said bcm had code de580 or something like a gateway. But not communicating to ecm.
how do I get the NATS light to go off? Should I get a new bcm,ecm, key ignition that matches each other and replace all parts? Someone said they got it all for 250$

other than that, what else can I do? I'm wanting to try everything before I take to dealership.
please lmk any help with car getting started I will personally send someone 100$ through Venmo or whatever. You have my word