Advanced Camshaft Timing After Clutch Job (2005 Infiniti G35 6mt)
Advanced Camshaft Timing After Clutch Job (2005 Infiniti G35 6mt)
Hey guys,
So I recently did a clutch job for the very first time. Took me about two weeks and I threw a couple things, but i eventually got it done. After fixing my hydraulic issues, I got to drive it for the first time. Something seemed very off. CEL was on, but my lower o2 sensors are out so I couldn't be sure. Performed an ECU reset, and the CEL popped back up and It was still breaking up so I took it to get my codes read. Here's what came out.
P0011 Intake Camshaft Position Timing (bank 1)
P0037 Heater Control Circuit (missing o2)
P0057 Heater Control Circuit (missing o2)
P0021 Intake Camshaft Position Timing (bank 2)
P0014 Exhaust Camshaft Position Timing (bank 1)
P0011 Intake Camshaft Position Timing (bank 1)
P0037 (o2)
P0057 (o2)
P0021 Intake Camshaft Position Timing (bank 2)
P0014 Exhaust Camshaft Position Timing (bank 1)
Timing was advanced for all of these codes. Makes a lot of sense considering the fuel dump and the stuttering of the engine. Still able to start it and drive it, just being very cautious.
So, autozone recommends replacing the VVTI Solenoid. I didn't touch this during my clutch job, so I figure it's fine. I'll take it out and clean it up anyways. Timing chain is fine, my butt mechanic says that it hasn't slipped at all. I checked my crankshaft position sensor and it seems to be in correctly. I'm going to pick up a new one just to cover ends. Also, after looking up the codes, I was informed that it's possible my oil could be the cause. Not sure on the technical information or exactly what it would be blocking, but I'll be doing an oil change too.
My question here is simple; Any ideas? To my knowledge all my sensors are in on my transmission, although It's totally possible I somehow missed one. My thinking is it has to be an issue revolving around the transmission, considering the engine wasn't touched and i'm a bit of a newbie. Any help would be greatly appreciated, I don't exactly like driving my car with advanced timing and having an odd sounding exhaust and fuel dumps every time the engine brakes. lol.
Thanks guys,
BlackPearlG
So I recently did a clutch job for the very first time. Took me about two weeks and I threw a couple things, but i eventually got it done. After fixing my hydraulic issues, I got to drive it for the first time. Something seemed very off. CEL was on, but my lower o2 sensors are out so I couldn't be sure. Performed an ECU reset, and the CEL popped back up and It was still breaking up so I took it to get my codes read. Here's what came out.
P0011 Intake Camshaft Position Timing (bank 1)
P0037 Heater Control Circuit (missing o2)
P0057 Heater Control Circuit (missing o2)
P0021 Intake Camshaft Position Timing (bank 2)
P0014 Exhaust Camshaft Position Timing (bank 1)
P0011 Intake Camshaft Position Timing (bank 1)
P0037 (o2)
P0057 (o2)
P0021 Intake Camshaft Position Timing (bank 2)
P0014 Exhaust Camshaft Position Timing (bank 1)
Timing was advanced for all of these codes. Makes a lot of sense considering the fuel dump and the stuttering of the engine. Still able to start it and drive it, just being very cautious.
So, autozone recommends replacing the VVTI Solenoid. I didn't touch this during my clutch job, so I figure it's fine. I'll take it out and clean it up anyways. Timing chain is fine, my butt mechanic says that it hasn't slipped at all. I checked my crankshaft position sensor and it seems to be in correctly. I'm going to pick up a new one just to cover ends. Also, after looking up the codes, I was informed that it's possible my oil could be the cause. Not sure on the technical information or exactly what it would be blocking, but I'll be doing an oil change too.
My question here is simple; Any ideas? To my knowledge all my sensors are in on my transmission, although It's totally possible I somehow missed one. My thinking is it has to be an issue revolving around the transmission, considering the engine wasn't touched and i'm a bit of a newbie. Any help would be greatly appreciated, I don't exactly like driving my car with advanced timing and having an odd sounding exhaust and fuel dumps every time the engine brakes. lol.
Thanks guys,
BlackPearlG
A good place to start would be to read the EC section of the FSM
https://www.nicoclub.com/service-man...pe/2005/ec.pdf
Do not use cheap aftermarket parts
https://www.nicoclub.com/service-man...pe/2005/ec.pdf
Do not use cheap aftermarket parts
All those codes are pertaining to ENGINE controls, you have no transmission codes. The only sensors on the 6MT are a park/neutral position switch and a reverse gear switch.
Did you remove the flywheel? I suspect you didn't align the flywheel to the alignment dowel, the flywheel installs in an EXACT position, technically yes you could physically install it in any position however it has an alignment dowel because the CKP sensor has a pickup on the flywheel so it will only run properly in ONE POSITION.
However, you must install the O2 sensors too, you can't just leave them out.
How far advanced is the timing? Under load at higher rpm it will be around +40 degrees, idle it's like 0 to +12 depending on if you have the AC on and such. It fluctuates a lot.
Did you remove the flywheel? I suspect you didn't align the flywheel to the alignment dowel, the flywheel installs in an EXACT position, technically yes you could physically install it in any position however it has an alignment dowel because the CKP sensor has a pickup on the flywheel so it will only run properly in ONE POSITION.
However, you must install the O2 sensors too, you can't just leave them out.
How far advanced is the timing? Under load at higher rpm it will be around +40 degrees, idle it's like 0 to +12 depending on if you have the AC on and such. It fluctuates a lot.
All those codes are pertaining to ENGINE controls, you have no transmission codes. The only sensors on the 6MT are a park/neutral position switch and a reverse gear switch.
Did you remove the flywheel? I suspect you didn't align the flywheel to the alignment dowel, the flywheel installs in an EXACT position, technically yes you could physically install it in any position however it has an alignment dowel because the CKP sensor has a pickup on the flywheel so it will only run properly in ONE POSITION.
However, you must install the O2 sensors too, you can't just leave them out.
How far advanced is the timing? Under load at higher rpm it will be around +40 degrees, idle it's like 0 to +12 depending on if you have the AC on and such. It fluctuates a lot.
Did you remove the flywheel? I suspect you didn't align the flywheel to the alignment dowel, the flywheel installs in an EXACT position, technically yes you could physically install it in any position however it has an alignment dowel because the CKP sensor has a pickup on the flywheel so it will only run properly in ONE POSITION.
However, you must install the O2 sensors too, you can't just leave them out.
How far advanced is the timing? Under load at higher rpm it will be around +40 degrees, idle it's like 0 to +12 depending on if you have the AC on and such. It fluctuates a lot.
Hey guys,
So I recently did a clutch job for the very first time. Took me about two weeks and I threw a couple things, but i eventually got it done. After fixing my hydraulic issues, I got to drive it for the first time. Something seemed very off. CEL was on, but my lower o2 sensors are out so I couldn't be sure. Performed an ECU reset, and the CEL popped back up and It was still breaking up so I took it to get my codes read. Here's what came out.
P0011 Intake Camshaft Position Timing (bank 1)
P0037 Heater Control Circuit (missing o2)
P0057 Heater Control Circuit (missing o2)
P0021 Intake Camshaft Position Timing (bank 2)
P0014 Exhaust Camshaft Position Timing (bank 1)
P0011 Intake Camshaft Position Timing (bank 1)
P0037 (o2)
P0057 (o2)
P0021 Intake Camshaft Position Timing (bank 2)
P0014 Exhaust Camshaft Position Timing (bank 1)
Timing was advanced for all of these codes. Makes a lot of sense considering the fuel dump and the stuttering of the engine. Still able to start it and drive it, just being very cautious.
So, autozone recommends replacing the VVTI Solenoid. I didn't touch this during my clutch job, so I figure it's fine. I'll take it out and clean it up anyways. Timing chain is fine, my butt mechanic says that it hasn't slipped at all. I checked my crankshaft position sensor and it seems to be in correctly. I'm going to pick up a new one just to cover ends. Also, after looking up the codes, I was informed that it's possible my oil could be the cause. Not sure on the technical information or exactly what it would be blocking, but I'll be doing an oil change too.
My question here is simple; Any ideas? To my knowledge all my sensors are in on my transmission, although It's totally possible I somehow missed one. My thinking is it has to be an issue revolving around the transmission, considering the engine wasn't touched and i'm a bit of a newbie. Any help would be greatly appreciated, I don't exactly like driving my car with advanced timing and having an odd sounding exhaust and fuel dumps every time the engine brakes. lol.
Thanks guys,
BlackPearlG
So I recently did a clutch job for the very first time. Took me about two weeks and I threw a couple things, but i eventually got it done. After fixing my hydraulic issues, I got to drive it for the first time. Something seemed very off. CEL was on, but my lower o2 sensors are out so I couldn't be sure. Performed an ECU reset, and the CEL popped back up and It was still breaking up so I took it to get my codes read. Here's what came out.
P0011 Intake Camshaft Position Timing (bank 1)
P0037 Heater Control Circuit (missing o2)
P0057 Heater Control Circuit (missing o2)
P0021 Intake Camshaft Position Timing (bank 2)
P0014 Exhaust Camshaft Position Timing (bank 1)
P0011 Intake Camshaft Position Timing (bank 1)
P0037 (o2)
P0057 (o2)
P0021 Intake Camshaft Position Timing (bank 2)
P0014 Exhaust Camshaft Position Timing (bank 1)
Timing was advanced for all of these codes. Makes a lot of sense considering the fuel dump and the stuttering of the engine. Still able to start it and drive it, just being very cautious.
So, autozone recommends replacing the VVTI Solenoid. I didn't touch this during my clutch job, so I figure it's fine. I'll take it out and clean it up anyways. Timing chain is fine, my butt mechanic says that it hasn't slipped at all. I checked my crankshaft position sensor and it seems to be in correctly. I'm going to pick up a new one just to cover ends. Also, after looking up the codes, I was informed that it's possible my oil could be the cause. Not sure on the technical information or exactly what it would be blocking, but I'll be doing an oil change too.
My question here is simple; Any ideas? To my knowledge all my sensors are in on my transmission, although It's totally possible I somehow missed one. My thinking is it has to be an issue revolving around the transmission, considering the engine wasn't touched and i'm a bit of a newbie. Any help would be greatly appreciated, I don't exactly like driving my car with advanced timing and having an odd sounding exhaust and fuel dumps every time the engine brakes. lol.
Thanks guys,
BlackPearlG
Hey man I have an 08 Sedan, HR, with the 6mt I'm having the same codes:
p0011
P0021
P0014
P0024
All these codes came on 5 minutes after I changed my clutch and drove the car off. To keep the costs low I had a back yard mechanic do the job. I suspected that he did not align the dual mass flywheel correctly and at the end he confessed that there were about 8 positions the flywheel could go in and since he did not find the marking he just slapped it in and forgot about the markings. I took my car to a reputable mechanic and they dropped the trans just a little bit and found that the crank sensor was damaged too by the imbecile, they replaced the sensor, put everything back together, called it a day and gave me my car back. When the engine light came back on, they told me that the light was on again for "timing" (well no **** that's what the code said), he told me that it was totally coincidental that the timing got messed up 5 minutes after a clutch job (the car never skipped a beat in 14 yrs of existence even with the code on) and that he would charge me 15 hours of labor to take apart the front end and look at my timing chain because that was the problem lmaoooo. So my question here is, what should I do? Listen to my mechanic and accept the possibility no matter how small that it is a timing issue, or is it the incorrectly mounted flywheel and I spare another 400-500 bucks to drop the trans again and have it looked at?
How did you fix your problem? Did redoing the clutch solve it?
There is only one position that the flywheel can install to even though yes it physically COULD be installed any which way.
There is a dowel pin on the crankshaft, it aligns with the dowel pin hole on the new flywheel.
If the dowel pin is missing it doesn't matter, just line up the two holes.
If you don't do this then you WILL be removing the transmission to fix the flywheel issue.
This is the same for practically every vehicle produced after the year 2000, everything uses a crank position sensor, the pickup for the CKP is on the flywheel/flexplate so it absolutely MUST be installed in the correct orientation.
Sounds like your mechanic doesn't work on anything newer than 1999-2000.
There is a dowel pin on the crankshaft, it aligns with the dowel pin hole on the new flywheel.
If the dowel pin is missing it doesn't matter, just line up the two holes.
If you don't do this then you WILL be removing the transmission to fix the flywheel issue.
This is the same for practically every vehicle produced after the year 2000, everything uses a crank position sensor, the pickup for the CKP is on the flywheel/flexplate so it absolutely MUST be installed in the correct orientation.
Sounds like your mechanic doesn't work on anything newer than 1999-2000.
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