My car was manufactured in 05/04. I have to tell you that I am truly a pessimist with regard to purported performance claims. Therefore, I approached this project with reservation. With that said, I was really wound up when I pushed my car. Please reference the enclosed link. I must say that I feel the results exhibited in the enclosed chart are very representative of what I was trying to articulate earlier.

http://www.jimwolftechnology.com/ima..._CAMS_DYNO.jpg

4500RPM is where the fun begins. As I stated before, the vehicle pulled hard. I have never felt that type of acceleration prior to this project. Though this is a huge investment and a hell of a mess, I believe this type of “mod” produces actual/tangible gains. Further, I spoke with JWT in great length and they are the first company I have spoke to that asked me how I liked the performance. That is, they knew/know that their cams produce real gains. In addition, they are right.

As for shifting, I see/feel no difference in the behavior of the vehicle except a very slight lopey exhaust note. However, late model 350Z’s and G35’s (ECU) require the idle stabilizer modification due to low manifold vacuum at idle which causes the vehicle to stall at idle. I am still working on this though… I believe the problem is amplified due to the old maps of the Unichip. Right now, I really do not know.

 

Remember the G has bucket lifters [without replaceable] shims so each lifter must be measured and the proper one selected and purchased to fit the cam valve clearance IF there are miles on the engine [wear on lifters]. A step skipped in the cheapo 8 hour labor of cam swaps. At least measure them to see how far out odf spec you are after the cam change.

 

realdieu - i'm trying to get a fix with the idle issue. talked to technosquare about raising idle to 850, hopefully it won't be an issue. any other issues? everything sounds cool so far.

Q45tech - you know, i've undertaken a few little bolt-on projects in the past, but everytime i am about to pick up a project, you offer some information (usually some mathematical formula) that really throws me off. could you please elaborate on this lifter issue when swapping out cams?

 

I spent about thirty minutes with Jim Wolf yesterday. That is, THE Jim Wolf. Yes, Technosquare can bump the idle with no problem. I suggest 850-900RPM. As a matter of fact, I am sending my ECU to technosquare. I just spent $1,800 on a set of StopTech Drilled AeroRotors and matching race pads. After that, I am going Technosquare. Other than that, there are no other issues. No matter what, take your car to either Nissan or Infiniti.

Believe me, this is one mod that you will truly feel the difference. Guaranteed no placebo effect...

 

i've got to ask... $1,800 for rotors? could you please explain...?

 

Sure. They are the StopTech Drilled AeroRotor DRK - Front and Drilled AeroRotor DRK - Rear. They are two piece.

Front:

Direct Replacement 2 Piece AeroRotor Kit for the rear of the 2004 Infiniti G35 w/ 6MT. The kit includes two 7075-T6 billet aluminum AeroHats with directional standoffs, two StopTech hat mounting kits with our proprietary inconel spring washer retenetion system, and two 328x28mm slotted, floating, front AeroRotors.

Rear:

Direct Replacement 2 Piece AeroRotor Kit for the rear of the 2004 Infiniti G35 w/ 6MT. The kit includes two 7075-T6 billet aluminum AeroHats with directional standoffs, two StopTech hat mounting kits with our proprietary inconel spring washer retenetion system, and two 328x28mm slotted, floating, front AeroRotors.

http://stoptech.com/images/products/...iperrotors.jpg

 

i looked at them, but for that kind of money... you're about halfway to a big brake kit. i guess i couldn't spend that much money to make a relatively small improvement when compared to a bbk. i hope it works out for you... awaiting reviews. good luck!

 

imo, I'd take his setup over the average BBK anyday... those rotors are amazing!

and about the cams... I keep thinking about going F/I, but I really love the way my car feels now and I think for the type of driving I do, a good set of cams would probably do it for me (I have extensive air-flow mods - pretty much every bolt-on minus cams) - even though you said you would recommend going with cams before some of the other mods, I'd have to disagree with you - the cams will not live up to their full potential WITHOUT these mods, so I think they are rather the last piece of the puzzle more than the first mod you should do...

thanks for the insight (ie going to a Nissan dealer for install - SGP was going to charge me $2300 for Nismo cams + install!)

 

ok, i agree that is a great brake setup. stoptech makes top quality stuff... including big brake kits. that's my thinking. are you trying to improve stopping power and minimizing stopping distance? bbk is a good answer. all of this technology they put into these rotors can also be used in their bbk's as well. that's all. that's a lot of money for poor old me.
about the cam install... check this out... the nearest infiniti dealer is in raleigh, none in fayetteville (something happened a few years back... probably no sales), but the local nissan dealership does not work on infiniti's. he said he could do it for a 350z, but no g35. idiots. and the dealer in raleigh says they don't install aftermarket parts 'like that'. that was after they gave me a quote for a crank pulley install. then they referred me to a local garage who wants at least $1000 plus gaskets and everything else. now. i've got a local guy who has done a lot of work for me, and builds engines all of the time (import and domestic). do you guys think they can handle this?

 

Good points. The StopTech Aero Rotors are two piece replaceable rotors. I wanted a drilled rotor and the StopTech's are about the best available. I was going to go with a set of Racing Brake rotors but they only sell slotted.

http://www.racingbrake.com/

However, they really wont look much better than stock. Also, I did not want the Gold Brembo drilled rotors.

Therefore, the StopTech's are the ticket. Although, expensive. That price also includes a set of Hawk racing pads, stainless steel lines, and all the brake fluid.

As for the cams, I do not believe that the stock intake and exhaust would substantially limit the performance or meaning of the cams. The G35 is a tightly tuned vehicle and there is really no relevant argument other than aesthetics and tone to replace the exhaust. However, a cam and cat upgrade/installation would be a nice bump in performance at higher RPM’s. What I have learned is that we G35 users tend to nickel and dime our cars to death. Rather than focus on the intake, grounding gear, etc, it may make more performance sense to look at high-flow cats, cams, and perhaps headers. After that, then mess around with varying intakes, plenums, grounding gear, pulley’s, etc. Of course, I believe F/I should be the primary objective. Only then, will the G35 produce substantial gains.

http://www.nissanperformancemag.com/...3/altima_cams/

Purchase the JWT cams and negotiate the install with your dealership. They should charge no more than $600.00.

Save yourself $650 and pick up the JWT A3503-N00S1 cams for $1,050 at:

http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...tegoryID=37855

 

I would pay a visit to your Nissan dealership and explain to them that the engines are the exact same. In fact, give those yahoo’s the name of the Nissan dealership that did my cam install. They are:

Dick Scott Nissan
42175 Michigan Avenue
Canton, Michigan 48170
800.504.8536
http://www.dickscottnissan.com/

The service manager is Kyle and the mechanic is Brian.

If you go with JWT, demand that your friend/mechanic call JWT technical support PRIOR to the installation. There is a good chance that he will be talking to Jim Wolf himself.

Remember, you can either use the JWT idle stabilizer fix or the Technosquare ECU upgrade. One of these options must be used in order to stabilize the idle after the install.

 

I had my StopTech AeroRotors DRK installed today. Huge difference in looks over the OEM rotors. I am “bedding” the brakes so I cannot comment on stopping power.

More importantly, I ran half a dozen runs with the dyno on my car with the JWT Cams. Let me step back a bit and put this into perspective. Prior to the JWT cams and the UniChip (LemonChip), my vehicle was dynoed at 252RWHP. After the UniChip (LemonChip) installation, my vehicle was dynoed at 261RWHP. As some of you may know, I returned the LemonChip and had a set of JWT cams installed. With this said, I was using the original 252RWHP and 235 ft/lb as my reference point. As I said, we ran about six runs and I simply grabbed the lowest and the highest results. All the runs were close to one another. With the LemonChip gone and the JWT cams installed the results are:

Low:

HP SAE 273.9
Ft/lb 240.9

High:

HP SAE 276.9
Ft/lb 242.2

Looking at the numbers, the “low-gains” were 21.9 HP and the “high-gains” were 24.9 HP. However, I was running extremely lean (at least 15.1) at 4500-5000RPM. Because of which, I am going to install the GReddy E-Manage Control Unit ($299). This will smooth out the erratic torque readings by correcting the air/fuel ratios while adding 5 or so HP. Then, I should be at 280RWHP.

Overall, I could not be more pleased with the results of the JWT cams. With the exception of a turbo or supercharger, this is one of the smartest modifications for performance. Albeit expensive…

 

Sounds Like to me you had a good day. Great numbers with running lean. Would love to see PICS of your Brake's. I will say you do put effort in and get results.
Pasta

 

I will post a picture of the rotors after I clean the vehicle. It rained in Michigan today. The car was spotless, now it looks like hell...