where can I get this wire kit ? so the best brand is Hyper I suppose ? btw, I'm WA

 

Insaneamine from my350Z.com is making and selling his 5 wire kit for $75 USD I believe. The Nissan kit from Japan is $200. There are various other manufacturers as well, Sun Auto being one of the best known. Some of us have made our own, but the raw materials ie Oxygen-free 4 Ga copper cable is quite expensive. I've been asked to make a few kits for some of the others on this forum which I'll probably let go for my cost of the materials, which is probably higher than if I could make a bulk purchase which because it's only a hobbie for me, I'm not willing to do. It's kinda neat thinking that my handi-work would be going to other areas and into enthusiast's cars. [img]/w3timages/icons/cool.gif[/img]

<font color=green>GG</font color=green>

 

how good are these "homemade" kits from the one on nissan's site?

'03 G35 Sedan: ivory/aero body/sport/sunroof
Warning: Objects in mirror are FASTER than they appear

 

If memory serves, from what I read on my350Z.com, one of the guys bought the kit from Japan. He used it to determine the ground points and as the basis for designing the homemade versions. He found no difference between the performance of the two and sold the Nissan set.
The electrical engineers that I spoke with say that provided you use high strand oxygen-free cable, they should work the same. Just make sure the casing is also heat and chemical resistant.
Welding cable and such was not recommended due to the low quality copper and 'skin effect' of the thicker strands.
There is some debate re the value of the gold plated terminals. A couple of the EEs I spoke with suggested that just a high quality copper might actually be better than gold plated, but I'm still not sure why, something to do with conductivity differences or something. Also that sometimes the gold plated terminal can cause some corrosion of the wire itself as opposed to copper-to-copper. They suggested that everything be sealed up really well, and corrosion shouldn't be a concern for many years. Any EEs out there care to elaborate?

<font color=green>GG</font color=green>

 

I read somewhere (possibly the previously mentioned Turbo magazine) that the theory behind the grounding kits is to reduce the noise on the signals from the various sensors read by the ECU. One way to reduce the noise is to reduce the impedance of the sensor's signal return path to "ground" or improve the grounding of the sensors. When trying to improve the grounding, the following are some common techniques:
- Use a single point ground. In other words, bring all the ground wires back to one point. Preferably, this point would be on the engine block where the negative terminal of the battery and/or all other electrical grounds are connected.
- Use the shortest, widest ground connection possible. Wider straps make better radio frequency grounds. A wide, flat copper strap would be ideal but probably break due to fatigue.
- Connect the other end of the wire as close as possible to the noisy sensor ground. This is to reduce the impedance between the sensor's ground and the single point ground. The noisy sensor ground could even be part of the engine block but it still has a path back to "ground".
- Just because it is metal does not mean it is a good ground. Body, suspension, even parts of the engine, etc. might be isolated from "ground" by non-metallic mounts and bushings.

Somebody should try some copper braided ground strap and compare it to the pricey audio wire.

Does anybody know where the ECU is located and how is it grounded? Maybe the ECU could use a good ground wire back to the single point ground.


Dave

03 G35 Coupe, Black/Graphite, 5AT

 

Just finished installing a hyper-ground kit (5 wire) on my G. WOW!!! Could really tell a difference. Seems to accelerate much smoother and change gears smoother as well. I bought the Sun brand, (silver ones). They were a little expensive but now I think well wort the expense.

 

Amazing difference isn't it?[img]/w3timages/icons/cool.gif[/img] Are the ground points of the Sun Kit the same? How much? Must be less than the Nissan kit for $200 USD.

<font color=green>GG</font color=green>

 

Paid $129 delivered. I used the same connection points as the rest of you guys.. The instructions just said to ground it to the engine,etc. whwerever you could.

 

yikes 129

Autotuner.org Home of Hulk Hogan's Supra and a skyline 240sx

 

Need some clarification here.

I've installed my grounding kit, but I am confused about one point.
The instruction said "Remove the 10mm bolt holding the factory ground wire. Located right below the hood sensor bracket."
I've remove the hood senson switch and all I saw was a 10mm bolt with like an dinky 14-18 guage wire. Is this the right point? I thought the factory ground wire would be a bit thinker than that!!

G35C 6MT / E55

 

I wonderd the same thing when I saw thaat same dinky bolt. However, I attached a wire there and to the other grounding points as in the pictures. Must be the right one because I can tell a real differnce in my G!!!!!

 

Yes, that's the correct grounding point. Anyone else had a chance to try the 7 wire setup yet? I want to know if the tranny response improvement is just in my head or not. My tranny ground goes all the way down to the transmission housing rather than just to the filler tube. I'm not sure what difference that makes, but it just makes sense to me.

<font color=green>GG</font color=green>

 

How long a wire did you use to connect to the tranny and where did you ground it to up top?

 

The tranny ground is 27" from the rear left of the intake manifold to a strip clamp holding a wire loom held on by a bolt on the transmission housing.


<font color=green>GG</font color=green>

 

For those of you making your own kits.
Found out a little more about lugs. The quality of lugs can be a factor. The reason that the EE suggested that I go with quality copper lugs is that with gold plated lugs, the base material can sometimes be suspect and difficult to determine. Many are gold plated cheap metal alloy or brass which may not conduct as well as copper. Much of the conduction in this case would take place on the surface of the lug, rather than through the core of the material, especially with high frequency signals. Though corrosion of copper can happen over a long period of time, they can easily be cleaned or protected with dialectric grease, but of course they don't look as cool as the gold plated lugs.
As I recently found out, all copper lugs are not created equal either. My supplier gave me a set that was noticeably inferior, but actually looked nicer from the outside.

<font color=green>GG</font color=green>

49514-Lugs 1.JPG