Im in need of major help with my 05 coupe amp/sub setup - im having horrible problems that no one can seem to figure out. its been 3 months and i still cant get my issues resolved, long story short, i have a LOC on my rear speakers that connect to my kenwood amp that powers my 2 punch speakers.....when i turn off the car they turn on with a WOOOOOo sound that gets louder for aout 10 secs then shuts off. when ihook up both RCA cables, the speakers hardly bump, with only 1, they bump hard. ive gone through 4 amps, 3 rewireing and god knows how much time in the past 3 months....im coming to the point im gonna just ell off my speakers, custom box, and amp....

really my last resort here, if anyone has any help they could offer, please email me at otacon13@bellsouth.net or reply here, thanks!

 

sound advice

 

Ok, lets start from the beginning, what head unit are you running? Does it have RCA outputs? if so How many? can you designate them to be solely outputs for the subs?

we can work through this. I had a similar problem with my first car in 1998.

Adrian

 

stock head unit, i had someone who knows the field wire my car, he did it from the rear speakers with a high/low converter sending signals to Left/Right RCA cables....those cables go to the amp obviously. It works fine for random time periods, might work fine for a day, for an hour, or a couple minutes, for example i had redone the wireing today for the 3rd time and it worked fine until tonight, when i turned on my car and it did the sound for about 2 secs before the radio kicked in....it did it when it urned off the car for 10 secs or so as i previously explained as well. i simply have the RCA's unhooked now until i get some real help or just unwire it all and send it to hell

 

Does the amp have a built in capacitor? If so, maybe that is discharging all of the stored energy after you turn off the car.

Just a random thought from a mechanical engineer who knows nothing about electronics.

 

definately doesnt, since my lights dim a bit when the subs hit

 

what LOC are you using?

 

I'm pretty sure it is your setup with the RCA's since you didn't do a clean one. In my old car, I had to leave one of the RCA's (left) completely disconnected on both sides while the other (right) was connected, so I basically had one input to the amp. If I ever made the mistake and switched from the right to the left RCA's I'd have the same feedback you had when turning off the car. It took lots of trial and error to get it to work, and if the wires were sitting one way, it would make the noise, and if they sat a different way, they didn't. I ended up duct taping the wires down in position for a few months until I had the money to change the head unit.

That is my #1 suggestion... change the head unit and go pro :-D get one with 3 sets of RCA outs & you are golden.

shetyamout: what is LOC?

Oh, another thought, there should be a way to change the amount of signal that goes through from the speaker wire to the RCA output, have you tried changing that? You would probably still get feedback though :-/

Third thought, maybe the stock head unit produces some kind of low level feedback to the rear speakers when shutting down. This probably wouldn't be heard with the original speakers, but since you set up subs off the same line, its going nuts.

Fourth, put a switch up by you, the driver, to turn the remote wire that leads to the amp on and off. This way, you can turn off the amp first then turn off the stereo. Of course, if your remote wire is linked into your power antenna cable in the rear, you would have to run the wire to the front and back to the amp again to make a big loop.

No more thoughts for now. I'm IMing my friend right now to see what he says.

Adrian

 

Oh yeah, and if you are thinking of selling your stuff and you have paid that much money to invest in them... just invest some more and get a double din kit and a head unit :-)

Adrian

 

is the loc grounded???
that can make a huge difference right there. todds had one ground and mine had two one for each channel
is the loc adjustable? if so turn it pretty much all the way down.
how high do you have the gains turned up on the amp?

dont through it all away just get the dd and a nice head unit and fix it that way.

also you lights will flicker even with a cap in this car. i have a 1F cap and 760W amp running one 12 and my lights still flicker. i used to run this same exact setup (except had 2 12s) in my previous car and when i added the cap it stopped my lights from flickering just not in this car.

from what i have gathered is that in this car you will need to get some heavy gauge wire and run it from the alternator to the battery as well as get a optima yellow top as well.

 

Flickering?! hah

oh, by the way the basic rule of thumb is 1 farad for every 500 watts, but even this doesn't help as I had 1700 watts and a 15 farad Alumapro C.A.P. ... yep, you guessed it, all lights still dimmed, but the the dimming was delayed until the cap was emptying and sucking power from the engine area/battery which would take about a half a second.

I will tell you this though, a good second battery or cap will make your system SIGNIFICANTLY louder!!!!! (for me it was 3db measured on the new electronic meter)

Adrian

 

i thought it was a .5F for every 500W

 

if that is true, then it's worthless lol

You might be right, I could EASILY be wrong... I just know that almost 1 farad for each 100 watts wasn't enough for me. Of course, these are RMS watts and bench tested, not some stupid manufacturer estimation - like from AudioFunk or something hehehe

Adrian

 

yeh you may need like 3 batteries then

 

my problem is that i have a stock navi, i dont want to lose the sound on my navi + probably void my navi warranty