i need to roll mine so i can drop my rear more.
jb mentioned to me before about gettin one of the rollers.
is there anyone else that would want to do it??
jeremy? ryan? aaron? chuck?

 

How come people have to fender roll? My car is slamed tucked and I have 20's and I dont rub

 

What are you suggesting, Dan? My car doesn't rub at all...are you saying I need to lower it so I can use your roller?

 

well the two ways i know of rolling the fenders are....


1. the way they did todds G35 when he had it, they took a small die grinding wheel possibly a dremel tool and cut away about a 1/4 inch of material all the way on the top of the fender. works well on these cars

or the way i did mine

2. i took some very good sharp tin snips (for those that dont know, tin snips are big scissors that cut through metal) and cut half inch slits every 1/4 inch all the way across the top on the inside of the fenders. then you actually roll (bend) the metal back up in the fenders. this is what we used to do on hondas we raced BUT the metal on these cars is way way thicker and much more difficult to do than on a honda. i would recommend doing way 1 because the way i did it on my car actually slightly bent the metal on the outside in a couple spots.

good luck!!

 

My car's low enough... isn't it?

 

theres a couple reasons why you may not rub steve
1. the offset on your wheels isnt very aggressive and your tires are tucked underneath
2. you are running a lot more negative camber than i am in the rearso when you go over a bump your tires angle in and dont hit the metal
3. the person that had the car fefore you may have had them rolled already or done it one of the ways jeremy suggested.

 

You can rent a roller for $50 and a $300 deposit.
http://rollyourfender.com/

 

#3. I was thinking about using one of the more modern rollers that are designed to roll fenders. TireRack sells them, so does Eastwood Tools.

The advantage of this tool is that the rolled lip would be perfectly concentric relative to the center of the axle (wheel). The disadvantage is that the two tools are more expensive than tin snips.



They also sell a heat gun so that the paint doesn't crack when you roll the fenders.



Here's a site that documents this method of rolling fenders.

http://www.robsaudiworld.com/fender.htm

I was also thinking that maybe the FGC could purchase the tire rolling device. A lot of members would end up using it, but each person would probably only use it once. It's kind of expensive for an individual to purchase. The best place to get one seems to be Eastwood Tools. It's about $250 and the heater is about $40.

 

I had my rears rolled by a guy named Meerick over in the Tampa/Oldsmar area. He mainly does body work on BMWs and stuff but everyone gets fenders rolled there. He is kinda pricey though ($75 per side) but does good work, no dents or spider cracks in the paint. I forgot the shop name and number, I'll look for it when I go home though.

 

Just have the shop cut (shave) the rear fenders, thats what I did.

 

yeh i could do that but what are you using to seal the paint

 

Ok, I had mine done at Mirek's European Auto, Inc.
400 Marlborough St.
Oldsmar, FL 34677
813-891-9118

He uses the tool that JB posted about.

 

Touch up paint or something like a thin coat of epoxy to keep the edges from being too sharp.

 

Good info, Paul.

My main reason for buying a rolling tool was to get a better job done. Since your guy uses a tool like this, and has done it before, I suspect he could do a better job than any of us could on our first try.

Did he use a heater to keep the paint from cracking?

 

I do believe he used a heat gun. I didn't see him work on my car, I just dropped it off and picked it up later. He did apply some touchup paint to the fold (which points straight down anyways so you don't even see it) because when the metal folds the paint does get thinner letting some of the grayness of the bare metal show through, this should really only be a problem on the IPs though.