for me, I won't go above 70% throttle and 4000 rpms until I reach 140 degree oil temp. On some cold days in the winter, that can take up to 8-10 minutes of driving on surface streets before 140 degrees is reached if it's 40-45 degrees outside at the time. It depends. If you sit in rush hour or stop lights a lot, the oil will heat up faster

It's especially worthless to do a lot of highway driving because going 70-80mph in cold weather cools everything off so fast the oil just about never reaches 140 degrees. Last winter when I drove on the highway as my primary way to work for 30 min, the car usually never warmed up until I got off the highway



coolant warms up real fast though. After just 1 minute in 50 degree cold weather, the coolant temp is already around 120 degrees, and reaches 170-180 after about 3 min.

The stock coolant gauge is worthless though. It might as well be a warning light. It just about always looks like the coolant is at normal operating temp. Anything between 140-200 degrees, that stock coolant gauge is pegged right where "normal" I guess is - a little above halfway or whatever. The temp can fluctuate anything between 140-200 and that stock gauge won't move at all from the "normal" level it sits at

 

That doesn't surprise me, that thing does stay in the same place, whether it's 110 or 25 outside! I just use it to loosely infer a picture of all internal temps, I definitely know not to gun it if the coolant isn't even warm yet.

 

on my car, when the stock coolant gauge first reads "normal", my oil temp is still less than 100 degrees

G35's don't have oil pressure gauges, or I'd say to keep an eye on that instead of the stock coolant temp and wait for the oil pressure to reach maybe around halfway. I really only pay attention to my oil temp gauge before I start running the car hard. IMO that's the most important gauge to look at before you're "ready for lift-off"



off the top of my head, (I don't remember exactly, and am probably a little off) my aftermarket vs stock coolant gauges read something like this:

bear in mind my aftermarket temp gauge goes from 100-300 degrees F


aftermarket vs stock

less than 100 degrees, stock gauge reads at bottom
105 degrees, stock gauge starts moving up about 2mm above the bottom hash mark
110 degrees, stock gauge is probably about 5-7mm above bottom
140 degrees, stock gauge is "normal" or just below pointing horizontal
225 degrees, stock gauge is "normal

my coolant hasn't been above 225 degrees yet, but I think I remember reading the stock gauge doesn't start moving above "normal" until you reach 260 degrees. So that'd mean the stock gauge reads "normal for anything between 140-260 degrees

 

ahhh interesting! Mine was reading 240 and my temperature gauge was 3/4 on a 50 degree rainy night! I freaked out and bought a PWR Radiator, 2 14 Dual Fans, and a new thermostat and being installed at GTM Again I was using the stock radiator though, i dunno oh wellz haha

 

oh, hmm I'm thought it started moving up on the stock gauge when it reached 260, but maybe it was 240 and 260 was where it reaches that top hash mark before going into that 2nd area which is the "really hot" area. I just don't completely remember

 

Man, you guys are gonna have my cabin looking like this guys soon enough. The purple ***** cluster by defi, accept no substitutes.

 

lol

 

stock gauge starts moving at exactly 225 F degrees. it should sit right under straight across.


the temp gauge only reports every few seconds so its not the fastest responding thing.

 

Guys, just a heads up, I've gotten a couple responses from trusted pros (people that I trust and that a lot of you trust), and they're in agreement that the oil pan spacer is most likely not the problem. It was a good theory, but the easiest answer is probably the correct one, Vortech pumped out some doo doo this past summer and unfortunately I stepped in it.

 

Alright guys, the verdict is in. According to Vortech, the impeller is warped (+ contact with the housing), and...hold your breath...bad bearings!

Here's the best part, having admitted they produced defective units, having admitted that mine was in that batch, these guys had the ***** to blame it on me again! First time it was my fault because I must have been overspinning the impeller (with a 3.12" pulley on a non-revup mind you), now they're claiming the belt must have been too tight. Yeahhhhhhh. But after some brief harassment from AAM, they agreed to fix it again, because that's what companies do when a user willfully damages a product.

 

you are lucky they warrantied it all if they knew you were using a 3.12 pully (if you are non-revup like you mentioned) . Any use of non-stock pulleys voids the warranty.

good luck with your new blower I never had them ask any questions. just mailed it back and got a new one a week later.

 

I think you still have a six month warranty, even with upgraded pulleys. The first time it broke was ~2.5 months after purchase, so they had no excuse there. I guess they're extending us (defective owners) some courtesy with regards to the pulley/warranty effect, probably because they know a 3.12 pulley couldn't do that to the head unit after 2-6 months of use. I just don't like the game they're playing, at first they're resistant and blame you, then after some harassment they agree to fix it.