$10,000 and a coupe 5at?
#33
Originally Posted by Canadian
SEARCH!!!
For all you people saying TT with 5AT will destroy the tranny, please KNOW WHAT YOU'RE POSTING BEFORE YOU POST IT! It just irritates me when people post completely wrong information.
For a year now I have been boosted (17k miles) with my twin setup and my 5AT. Before the valve body was installed, I didn't have a single problem with my tranny. It acts weird ever since the VB upgrade was done, but no one has figured out exactly what it is..so the tranny might be F'd up or it might not be.
Anyway, with lower numbers and tranny upgrades (VB and tranny cooler) you should be fine! Just don't say because he has an automatic he shouldn't go twins. As long as you stay around 350-400whp/tq you should be set. Just don't go above that, and build the tranny if you want more.
With 10K you can easily get a JWT setup or Greddy. A JWT should run you 9k installed and it's very complete, all you would need is an exhaust and gauges.
Also IMO you should go TT over a S/C. It is just so much more fun to drive and the TQ is right there. I'd never spend that much and get a S/C.
For all you people saying TT with 5AT will destroy the tranny, please KNOW WHAT YOU'RE POSTING BEFORE YOU POST IT! It just irritates me when people post completely wrong information.
For a year now I have been boosted (17k miles) with my twin setup and my 5AT. Before the valve body was installed, I didn't have a single problem with my tranny. It acts weird ever since the VB upgrade was done, but no one has figured out exactly what it is..so the tranny might be F'd up or it might not be.
Anyway, with lower numbers and tranny upgrades (VB and tranny cooler) you should be fine! Just don't say because he has an automatic he shouldn't go twins. As long as you stay around 350-400whp/tq you should be set. Just don't go above that, and build the tranny if you want more.
With 10K you can easily get a JWT setup or Greddy. A JWT should run you 9k installed and it's very complete, all you would need is an exhaust and gauges.
Also IMO you should go TT over a S/C. It is just so much more fun to drive and the TQ is right there. I'd never spend that much and get a S/C.
#34
Originally Posted by Canadian
SEARCH!!!
For all you people saying TT with 5AT will destroy the tranny, please KNOW WHAT YOU'RE POSTING BEFORE YOU POST IT! It just irritates me when people post completely wrong information.
For a year now I have been boosted (17k miles) with my twin setup and my 5AT. Before the valve body was installed, I didn't have a single problem with my tranny. It acts weird ever since the VB upgrade was done, but no one has figured out exactly what it is..so the tranny might be F'd up or it might not be.
Anyway, with lower numbers and tranny upgrades (VB and tranny cooler) you should be fine! Just don't say because he has an automatic he shouldn't go twins. As long as you stay around 350-400whp/tq you should be set. Just don't go above that, and build the tranny if you want more.
With 10K you can easily get a JWT setup or Greddy. A JWT should run you 9k installed and it's very complete, all you would need is an exhaust and gauges.
Also IMO you should go TT over a S/C. It is just so much more fun to drive and the TQ is right there. I'd never spend that much and get a S/C.
For all you people saying TT with 5AT will destroy the tranny, please KNOW WHAT YOU'RE POSTING BEFORE YOU POST IT! It just irritates me when people post completely wrong information.
For a year now I have been boosted (17k miles) with my twin setup and my 5AT. Before the valve body was installed, I didn't have a single problem with my tranny. It acts weird ever since the VB upgrade was done, but no one has figured out exactly what it is..so the tranny might be F'd up or it might not be.
Anyway, with lower numbers and tranny upgrades (VB and tranny cooler) you should be fine! Just don't say because he has an automatic he shouldn't go twins. As long as you stay around 350-400whp/tq you should be set. Just don't go above that, and build the tranny if you want more.
With 10K you can easily get a JWT setup or Greddy. A JWT should run you 9k installed and it's very complete, all you would need is an exhaust and gauges.
Also IMO you should go TT over a S/C. It is just so much more fun to drive and the TQ is right there. I'd never spend that much and get a S/C.
You contradict yourself and even say your tranny might be F'd up. I am giving him the best / safest advice for an automatic trans FI course.
I have had my Vortech for almost 3 years and have had ZERO issues while running the 3.12 pulley on my STOCK (no upgraded) Auto trans and I daily drive her, she has 86k miles on the odometer so I do know what I am posting...
If you want safe and reliable FI for your auto, go with a SC (I reccomend Vortech) and don't have that worry in the back of your mind.
#35
Originally Posted by Triji
He has 10k and most likely wants to be "safe" on his choice. SC is definately safer on a Auto then a TT set up wouldn't you agree???... AND he would NOT have to build up his engine OR his trans to hold the TQ / Power levels of a Vortech SC. You will definately burn thru your trans with a turbo faster than a SC and there is NO debating that point.
You contradict yourself and even say your tranny might be F'd up. I am giving him the best / safest advice for an automatic trans FI course.
I have had my Vortech for almost 3 years and have had ZERO issues while running the 3.12 pulley on my STOCK (no upgraded) Auto trans and I daily drive her, she has 86k miles on the odometer so I do know what I am posting...
If you want safe and reliable FI for your auto, go with a SC (I reccomend Vortech) and don't have that worry in the back of your mind.
You contradict yourself and even say your tranny might be F'd up. I am giving him the best / safest advice for an automatic trans FI course.
I have had my Vortech for almost 3 years and have had ZERO issues while running the 3.12 pulley on my STOCK (no upgraded) Auto trans and I daily drive her, she has 86k miles on the odometer so I do know what I am posting...
If you want safe and reliable FI for your auto, go with a SC (I reccomend Vortech) and don't have that worry in the back of your mind.
JWT Twins ARE just as reliable if not MORE reliable than a vortech. Every week I see a new thread where someone's Vortech has failed. I've never even seen a blown motor on a JWT setup, though I'm sure there has been one or two.
All I have on my car right now is pretty much out of the box 530bb JWT Twins, HKS exhaust and right now it put down 355whp and 321wtq on a conservative tune.
#37
#38
#40
Originally Posted by Triji
No offence Canadian but I would rather have my Vortech w/ 410rwhp / 340TQ and a linier pull than 355 / 321 on a TT.
I also live in AZ where it tends to get hot and a SC just makes more sense to me.
I also live in AZ where it tends to get hot and a SC just makes more sense to me.
How many people run 410whp on a stock block? Not many, and if you do it won't last very long, forget about the tranny.
#41
Originally Posted by Canadian
To each his own, but when you plan on a built motor/tranny...you can't go wrong with twins. That's exactly what I plan on doing.
How many people run 410whp on a stock block? Not many, and if you do it won't last very long, forget about the tranny.
How many people run 410whp on a stock block? Not many, and if you do it won't last very long, forget about the tranny.
I do agree with you on that if I wanted to go for massive upgradeable power 500+ and wanted to build the engine and trans that a TT is the way to go (although I would do that on a manual). I am however very happy with my 410 safe HP to the wheels for this car. My next car I am only doing very minor mods to and keeping her pretty close to stock. With what I have spent on this car I could have had my GTR...
I am going to keep my "G" for my daily driver and I am getting a GTR (Titanium) as my fun weekend driver.
#42
#43
Registered User
iTrader: (19)
It's pretty simple actually. A twin turbo setup is going to put a lot more stress on a stock tranny because it will make a lot more torque very early in the rpm band which is what causes issues to the 5AT. A SC's hp and torque are very linear so you gradually build hp and torque which is a lot less stressful on a 5AT. A TT making 400whp is going to be making approx. the same torque. That is kinda pushing it on a 5AT without upgarding the tranny. A Vortech making roughly 400whp is going to be making approx. 330-350 torque but in a much more linear fashion. There isn't a sudden burst or rush of torque with a SC like you get with the TT. That's not to say that you can't go with a TT on a conservative tune and be perfectly fine. But the safer choice for a stock 5AT is a SC.
BTW, the issue with the Vortech's going bad has been resolved. There was a bad batch of SC's that went out LAST summer. Any new Vortech's being sold do not have the issues of the Vortech's from last summer. Unfortunately, a few of the SC's from last summer are still having issues. But as long as it is a brand new system, the issue with the defective bearings has been resolved.
BTW, the issue with the Vortech's going bad has been resolved. There was a bad batch of SC's that went out LAST summer. Any new Vortech's being sold do not have the issues of the Vortech's from last summer. Unfortunately, a few of the SC's from last summer are still having issues. But as long as it is a brand new system, the issue with the defective bearings has been resolved.
#44
I agree with what hex said but a TT used properly with the auto will work.What i mean is as long as you are in auto mode do not get on it hard as this will shock the trans when it downshifts.When you want to do some spirited driving make sure you are in manual mode and be in the gear you want but just letting the trans downshift by itself with all that torque is what will kill the trans.
I do have a v/b and a large trans cooler and have been running f/i for almost 5 years without a problem............so far.Also i flush the trans fluid every 15,000 miles just to be safe.
I do have a v/b and a large trans cooler and have been running f/i for almost 5 years without a problem............so far.Also i flush the trans fluid every 15,000 miles just to be safe.
#45
My tranny went out after 6 months when I had the Vortech but I was pushing 430rwhp if I recall.
If you don't want to build the motor or the tranny then go with a SC, it looks like this will be the cheaper and safer route for you at this time. If you decide you want more power then start looking into beefing up all the recommended items that have been mentioned numerous times.
I have no regrets going from a SC to a TT as I knew what I was getting into ahead of time, I can live with 456rwhp and 510trq
If you don't want to build the motor or the tranny then go with a SC, it looks like this will be the cheaper and safer route for you at this time. If you decide you want more power then start looking into beefing up all the recommended items that have been mentioned numerous times.
I have no regrets going from a SC to a TT as I knew what I was getting into ahead of time, I can live with 456rwhp and 510trq