Forced Induction Discussion of turbos , superchargers , and nitrous upgrades on the G35

V2 *IDLE coolant over heat*

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Old 06-01-2010 | 02:20 PM
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V2 *IDLE coolant over heat*

My issue seems to be different from others that I have talked to and read online. Here it goes...into as much detail as possible....

First, got my car back and about 500 or 600 miles later on the new V2 build my car's coolant started to overheat and the temp outside was in the low 80'sF. I noticed it after driving about 10-15 minutes with stopping at red lights and stop signs. Pulled over and let it cool down. Of coarse the first thing that comes to mind is air in the system or coolant leak. The first thing I do is check the ground for leaks and the coolant hoses for cuts or anything. The only thing I saw when I pulled over was a low coolant level (just below the low line) and the bypass hoses where bulging from behind the V2 main, black, bracket with the pulleys on it. (you know the main face plate thats with the SC setup) I don't know if everyone who has a V2 has the bypass hoses squeezed between the bracket plate and the engine and pressing against one of the screw heads on the bracket near the SC. (ill post pics when I get home) but there were no leaks or anything.

I called Sharif to see why my car was overheating after I got it back from them. He said to see if my heat blows hot air and if it blows cold air supposedly there's air in the coolant system. Well my heat blows scorching hot air so thats not it...I turned my car back on and left the heat on then turned it off and it wasn't over heating at the time so I drove home and it was good until a couple days later.

I was driving on the highway for 5 hours or so to VA from NC and it didn't over heat again. Spent the night at my parents house then went to the beach and that was about 3 hours away on the highway and no overheating. Get to the boardwalk strip at VA beach which is like driving at 15-20mph stop and go and it was 97F outside. I noticed the coolant is almost borderline overheated so I park in the parking garage as quickly as possible. Pop the hood and the coolant is boiling (litterally) in my coolant reservoir tank. Go to the beach for a few hours and come back to notice the coolant reservoir cap was cracked around the corners of it due to the pressure from the overheating and boiling. So I'm pretty sure thats how all the coolant exited the system when I got back because it was on the ground and all over the place. Put more coolant in both the radiator and the reservoir and turn on the car. Let it get to operating temp and turn the heat on blast and rev'd the engine to 3000RPM and held it there for about 5-10 minutes. Saw no problems so I got in the car and left the garage. (Saw a black G with black faced wheels with a copper colored wheel lips on the boardwalk strip so whoever that was those wheels looked sick. never seen that before.) anyways looked down at the coolant and it started to over heat again after driving for about 5-10 minutes on the strip which was stop and go at 15mph. Pulled over when it started to overheat and put my heat on blast before I turned it off. Funny thing is it stoped the coolant temp from escalating any further. It stopped at it's current position. At this point I'm thinking....wtf is going on....I look under the hood and the coolant is still at the current level it was when i refilled it. I drove off with the heat still on blast so the temp doesn't continue to rise and what do you know....the coolant temp goes back down to normal operating temp once I moved more than 500 feet at least at more than 20mph. I stop at a light and the temp is a couple notches above normal still. I get back on the highway and it's back to normal temp and I don't need the heat on when I'm on the highway. It stays at normal operating temp when I'm on the highway but not when I'm in traffic....weird....didn't have an issue again until today.

As I was on the phone again with Sharif to tell him this story he said he is going to send me a funnel to do a procedure to get the air out of the system and to check to see if there are non-stop bubbles coming from the radiator (after doing this procedure for 30 minutes) leading to the possibility of a crack or opening allowing air to consistantly enter the coolant system. Anyways while I was on the phone with him again it started to over heat again........This time the temp outside was 81F and I was driving my car for about 10-15 minutes and I was sitting at the bank line (at idle) for about 10 minutes until it started to overheat. I turned on my heat at full blast and it stopped increasing temperature like I thought it would do from figureing it out from yesterday.

Now that that's out of the way here are the key points to this post:
-it overheats when idleing for long periods
-it doesn't overheat under normal driving (without stopping)
-it started about 600 miles after V2 setup install
-the bypass hose is pinched with the possiblity of puncturing the hose from a screw on the V2 main face bracket.
-the fan shroud was removed so 2 12 (or 10, i forgot...lol...) inch turbo fans are attached directly to the koyo slim radiator.
-the fans turn on when engine gets to certain temp like normal.
-maybe Strup headers heat dissipation+V2 heat dissipation+less fan effectiveness create to much heat when at idle or not moving fast enough/long enough for adequate air flow for cooling?

After I bleed the cooling system with the suggestion by Sharif and it doesn't fix it then I'm in a complicated dilema as you can tell which is why I'm posting this now just in case thats not the fix for it. All help is appreciated and I'm sure someone out there has the fix for this. I just haven't heard or seen anyone with this problem before. Thanks.
 
  #2  
Old 06-01-2010 | 03:29 PM
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check your thread on my350z
 
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Old 06-01-2010 | 06:19 PM
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I always get more replys there about the technical things I don't know everything about.
 
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Old 06-01-2010 | 07:54 PM
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check the fans...

I had a similar issue on idle in the past. The fan is 2 fans and they're both electric. If one goes out you might notice a small amount of temperature rise.

I'll bet it's not the SC but rather the fan. A good opportunity to get a nice higher flowing fan.
 
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Old 06-02-2010 | 05:55 PM
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Originally Posted by civic4982
check the fans...

I had a similar issue on idle in the past. The fan is 2 fans and they're both electric. If one goes out you might notice a small amount of temperature rise.

I'll bet it's not the SC but rather the fan. A good opportunity to get a nice higher flowing fan.
lol well sorry to break it to you but i have 2 mishimoto turbo fans and a koyo slim radiator....
 
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Old 06-03-2010 | 03:03 PM
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You simply just explained all the problems that i am currently having. I do not know what to do.
 
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Old 06-04-2010 | 12:27 AM
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I got the same problem with my V2 sedan. Stop and go traffic make that **** overheat and I see the needle climb
 
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Old 06-04-2010 | 05:56 AM
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well this thread isn't informative in any way.....but on my350z and talking to Sharif at FP figured it's most likely some air in the coolant system.
 
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Old 06-04-2010 | 09:32 AM
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my car is going to the stealership on Monday. I hope they do not deny my warranty because of my plenum spacer, test pipes, exhaust, osiris reflash and my groundeing wires. I also took off my engine cover. Can they deny me?
 
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Old 06-04-2010 | 09:56 AM
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my guess is

#1) air in the system. It can be very hard to bleed all the way out.
#2) Faulty fan. It may not be engaging properly or spinning fast enough to draw proper amount of air. They can go bad or be defective.
 
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Old 06-04-2010 | 05:26 PM
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Originally Posted by spinna001
my car is going to the stealership on Monday. I hope they do not deny my warranty because of my plenum spacer, test pipes, exhaust, osiris reflash and my groundeing wires. I also took off my engine cover. Can they deny me?
lol wrong thread buddy....but they can do what they want....technically your not suppose to have done any type of work on it yourself or else the warrenty is void but people have gone to the dealerships with upgrades and they didn't have a problem while some others did have a problem. It all depends....
 
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Old 06-04-2010 | 05:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Tollboothwilley
my guess is

#1) air in the system. It can be very hard to bleed all the way out.
#2) Faulty fan. It may not be engaging properly or spinning fast enough to draw proper amount of air. They can go bad or be defective.
yeah i looked into those. thanks for the input.
 
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Old 06-07-2010 | 04:13 PM
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UPDATE*** Just got back from the stealership. It turns out it was the fan. Problem gone.
 
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Old 06-07-2010 | 04:18 PM
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Originally Posted by spinna001
UPDATE*** Just got back from the stealership. It turns out it was the fan. Problem gone.
yup... sounds great. glad you got it fixed!
 
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Old 06-07-2010 | 04:46 PM
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Originally Posted by WINTERDEVILG35
lol wrong thread buddy....but they can do what they want....technically your not suppose to have done any type of work on it yourself or else the warrenty is void but people have gone to the dealerships with upgrades and they didn't have a problem while some others did have a problem. It all depends....
Not wrong thread. I was having the same issues as the thread starter! The guy said they will only deny warrranty if you have a plenum installed,flashed the ECU, or do cams and springs etc
 

Last edited by spinna001; 06-07-2010 at 04:50 PM.


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