G35 Greddy TT Project Questions
#17
Or with Cosworth or HKS 96mm Headgaskets there would be bot need for machine work to get the HR headgaskets to work.
#20
Phillip G35,
Welcome to FI world
With your power goal under 500 hp, I would not recommend doing springs and retainers on the heads. Springs & Retainers do not work well with stock cam (do some research G35). The stock heads are good upper to close to 600 hp capability. Just have the machine shop take a good look at these, replace some wear and tear OEM parts, clean and mill them, call it a day for your power goal.
Pistons: at 75K, you might want to go with 96mm for a better fit. I recommend 8.8:1 over 8.5:1 pistons for a better power curve (less lag). You'd get to feel the "kick" around 3k RPM instead of waiting until you hit 4k or higher. Remember, you build this car to drive, to have fun with NOT FOR SOME DYNO BRAGGGGGG . Unless you are, go with the lowest pistons available Wiesco 8.8:1= affordable or CP makes 8.5:1...good luck with your build Ned
Welcome to FI world
With your power goal under 500 hp, I would not recommend doing springs and retainers on the heads. Springs & Retainers do not work well with stock cam (do some research G35). The stock heads are good upper to close to 600 hp capability. Just have the machine shop take a good look at these, replace some wear and tear OEM parts, clean and mill them, call it a day for your power goal.
Pistons: at 75K, you might want to go with 96mm for a better fit. I recommend 8.8:1 over 8.5:1 pistons for a better power curve (less lag). You'd get to feel the "kick" around 3k RPM instead of waiting until you hit 4k or higher. Remember, you build this car to drive, to have fun with NOT FOR SOME DYNO BRAGGGGGG . Unless you are, go with the lowest pistons available Wiesco 8.8:1= affordable or CP makes 8.5:1...good luck with your build Ned
#23
#24
I build a car to see 17 to 18 PSI and the highest I seen was 13 PSI with 8 PSI daily driving because of the HKS.
Last edited by citymunky; 09-10-2011 at 09:11 PM.
#26
Premier Member
iTrader: (114)
Just a couple comments:
1) going with 95.5 (stock bore) or 96mm pistons should be determined by the condition of the block. If its in good condition (no scaring/damage to the cylinder walls) there is no need for overbore, and they will have more cost in machining the block as well because they have to bore it out larger.
2) the difference between 8.5:1 and 8.8:1 on a greddy 18g kit is going to be barely noticable at best, and there aren't many tuners outside of Japan that fine tune to that degree; there is no way it will be a 1000rpm difference in spooling. Good tuners know tricks to spool the turbos quicker, I'm not going into details but there are ways to work around it. If you ever plan on making more than 500whp I'd go with 8.5 however. You only get to pick your CR once tho so think carefully about it.
3) larger exhaust will help greatly. I noticed a huge difference just switching from a 2.5" true dual to 3"
4)get a koyo radiator.
1) going with 95.5 (stock bore) or 96mm pistons should be determined by the condition of the block. If its in good condition (no scaring/damage to the cylinder walls) there is no need for overbore, and they will have more cost in machining the block as well because they have to bore it out larger.
2) the difference between 8.5:1 and 8.8:1 on a greddy 18g kit is going to be barely noticable at best, and there aren't many tuners outside of Japan that fine tune to that degree; there is no way it will be a 1000rpm difference in spooling. Good tuners know tricks to spool the turbos quicker, I'm not going into details but there are ways to work around it. If you ever plan on making more than 500whp I'd go with 8.5 however. You only get to pick your CR once tho so think carefully about it.
3) larger exhaust will help greatly. I noticed a huge difference just switching from a 2.5" true dual to 3"
4)get a koyo radiator.
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blAk mAx (06-07-2013)
#27
Registered User
iTrader: (10)
OP i have a Mishimoto Rad here are the specs..
Overall Size: 30" x 21" x 1.91"
Core Size: 16.53" x 28.66"
Rows: 2
Inlet: 1.38"
Outlet: 1.38"
Core Thickness: 1.41"
Tank Wall Thickness: .08"
Fill Neck: 1.25"
Drain Plug Thread Size: M12 x .05"
Drain Plug Thread Length: .47"
http://www.mishimoto.com/infiniti-g3...diator-03.html
Overall Size: 30" x 21" x 1.91"
Core Size: 16.53" x 28.66"
Rows: 2
Inlet: 1.38"
Outlet: 1.38"
Core Thickness: 1.41"
Tank Wall Thickness: .08"
Fill Neck: 1.25"
Drain Plug Thread Size: M12 x .05"
Drain Plug Thread Length: .47"
http://www.mishimoto.com/infiniti-g3...diator-03.html
#29
Premier Member
iTrader: (114)
I would go with at least a 2.5" dual exhaust, it will get the job done up to 500whp. Over 500 you can still make power, but its going to be working the turbos hard and will hurt their longevity. Keep in mind tho that 3" exhaust is pretty loud, so if you are going for a stealth/sleeper build it might not be your thing.
This dyno sheet is from when I was tuned to 515whp with Fast Intentions 2.5" true dual exhaust, the only thing that changed between the pulls is that we swapped it out for the custom dual 3" with Apexi N1 cans. Same dyno, same car, same gas, same oil, same boost settings (Might have over boosted some since the turbos spooled so fast), no adjustments to the tune. Its a night and day difference, I've been since retuned to 570/552 and love it. spools so quick, I barely notice any lag. The dyno don't lie man
This dyno sheet is from when I was tuned to 515whp with Fast Intentions 2.5" true dual exhaust, the only thing that changed between the pulls is that we swapped it out for the custom dual 3" with Apexi N1 cans. Same dyno, same car, same gas, same oil, same boost settings (Might have over boosted some since the turbos spooled so fast), no adjustments to the tune. Its a night and day difference, I've been since retuned to 570/552 and love it. spools so quick, I barely notice any lag. The dyno don't lie man