Its awesome, but realistically, you'll end up spending 10Gs once it's all said and done.
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If you are okay with that, and the knowledge that you will end up spending exponentially more money than you would NA from that point on for maintenance, FI is for you.

If you do end up going thru with it though, you end up with a car that is a completelllly different beast to drive, gets compliments on a daily basis to say the least, and the satisfaction of creating an unique vehicle that (if the supporting mods such as brakes, suspension, drivetrain were done up to par) can outperform many cars with MUCH higher price tags if just bought as such from factory.

 

Yeah most sounds like 10k is at least what it would cost to go FI. Most likely I will enjoy being N/A for awhile (I already get quite a few compliments) and decide from then whether I want to boost it or just get something already factory boosted and go from there. One thing I do wish the G wasn't as heavy as it is, which is why I have been considering a 370z.

 

at LEAST 10 G's. Assuming its done right the first time and doesn't have any... "complications", which will easily add another 10 G's to that tab

 

For me my stock block experience was great, when I went built I had some stumbling points. They key to success is a good shop and a good tuner. I suggest using the tuner and the shop under the same roof that way if "issues" arise there is no finger pointing. Even with a good tuner and shop things can still go wrong, as long as you are prepared for that should be ok.

 

Yeah in a previous town that is exactly how I did it. Same mechanic and tuner, no one touched my car but him. Worked out great, unfortunately there isn't many aftermarket tuners or mechanics in my current area I live and I really don't want to have to drive out of town to find a good mechanic. I need to move to a better city, lol.

 

I think it is about 4hrs to Kent for you and correct me if I am wrong guys but I think Intec Racing is in Kent. seymore and itinkicn both get tuning/work done there. It's not great but 4hrs isn't the end of the world to travel to get a quality shop. If I did it again I wouldn't be afraid to travel to find a great shop, 4hrs and a flight home is a small price to pay if your shop causes a blown engine that 4hr drive will seem like a walk in the park.

Take a week vacation in Seattle while they work on the car

 

Seconded- considering that's basically my story.

 

Yeah guess I was spoiled before, the idea of traveling that far sucks. However, they are a Osiris authorized tuner so that helps too if I need to go there.

 

The meth was an added ness to keep the temps down.. the "true" reason my engine will not knock at 16lbs of boost is the fact that my engine is at a very low compression 81.

 

Give the extra "Cost Factor" towards a good tuner.. even if you have to fly someone down there to help you with tuning..

You can save money on any install/parts/labor.. but if you have a bad tune.. your whole project will go up in smoke..

and to be realistic about the "How much cost factor" going F/I on a N/A car isn't a "set cost" everyone has different factors, kits, labor, prices..etx..

For a 1st timer I wouldn't attempt to try a DIY build.. meaning you "think" you have everything covered and u want to "try to cut cost" the problem factor can play a key role there and afterwards shops would not want to touch anything afterwards.. and will end up costing you more in the long run.

Going F/I requires a lot of "Research", "Time" and a significant amount of funding. If you decide to move forward make sure you have all the "P" covered and all the "I" dotted because you make any wrong choice its gonna be a build that you may end up paying for in the wrong way.

My .02

 

I started my F/I build since I bought the car lol.

List since Jan 2010 purchase of Becca.

Tanabe Sustech Pro Coilovers $990
SPC Camber kit (front and rear) $380
JWT Heavy Duty Clutch and Flywheel $775
2.5in custom true dual exhaust with cat delete and no mufflers. $400
GTM Stage 2 TT kit w/Osiris (not installed yet) $7500

To be purchased upon return of this deployment.
AEM Wideband O2 Air/Fuel gauge $200
AEM Boost Controller gauge $315
AEM Oil Pressure gauge $200
Osiris MAF sensor $350

 

^ no fuel pump upgrade or return sys?

 

Here is what comes with the kit:

•Cast Ductile Iron Exhaust Manifolds And Turbine Housing
•Pre-Bent Stainless Steel Heat Shields
•Exhaust Manifold Install Hardware Kit
•4-Ply High Resistance Nomex Silicon couplers
•Stainless Steel T-Bolt clamps
•3.5 x 13 x 24 Bar and Plate Core Intercooler Rated 1000hp
•GTM Steering Coupler
•Polished Stainless Steel and Tig Welded Piping
•Pre-made steel braided oil and coolant Supply & Return lines
•Garrett's Twin ball bearing water & oil cooled turbocharger
•Cold Air Intake System (using k&n filters)
•TiAL 50mm Blow-off Valve
•HKS Internal Wastegate Actuators (standard option) with Turn key kit
•Tial 38mm external Wastegate with GTM Downpipes (standard option) with Tuner kit
•All Necessary Hardware and Installation Instructions
•GTM Custom mapped plug-in And play engine management for optimum engine tune and power .
•GTM Basic fuel system with D enso 600cc Injectors and Walbro 255 Fuel Pump .

 

sounds like a pretty nice setup.

 

Yeah I paid a pretty penty for it all so it better be lol

I chose the GT28r's .86 A/R for now. Everything has been sitting in my garage for the past year as i havent had the spare change to do the install.

When I get back from this deployment I will be good to go and start at it.

Going to have Stephen (R1Forever) do the install as he has done an install by himself already and is in the DFW area which is where im from and will be for awhile on leave.

I will run the maps provided by GTM until I can make my way up to Motiva Motorsports in Albequrque to get a "proper" tune. Might wait on the tune since I am leaving for Korea 5 months after i get back from this deployment and most likely staying overseas for a little while.