Forced Induction Discussion of turbos , superchargers , and nitrous upgrades on the G35

FI or not to FI?

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  #61  
Old 06-09-2012, 01:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Th3R3dStar323
Yeah I paid a pretty penty for it all so it better be lol

I chose the GT28r's .86 A/R for now. Everything has been sitting in my garage for the past year as i havent had the spare change to do the install.

When I get back from this deployment I will be good to go and start at it.

Going to have Stephen (R1Forever) do the install as he has done an install by himself already and is in the DFW area which is where im from and will be for awhile on leave.

I will run the maps provided by GTM until I can make my way up to Motiva Motorsports in Albequrque to get a "proper" tune. Might wait on the tune since I am leaving for Korea 5 months after i get back from this deployment and most likely staying overseas for a little while.
water cooled/oil cooled turbos FTW.. can never go wrong with Garretts..


R u deployed in AFG? I've been deployed for ova 3 years now... coming home in a few weeks. with your kit you can see high 800s or 900 easy.. you should think about doing a built engine to get the most gain out of your kit.
 
  #62  
Old 06-09-2012, 01:20 PM
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Originally Posted by nyqueenz
water cooled/oil cooled turbos FTW.. can never go wrong with Garretts..


R u deployed in AFG? I've been deployed for ova 3 years now... coming home in a few weeks. with your kit you can see high 800s or 900 easy.. you should think about doing a built engine to get the most gain out of your kit.
Hell yeah man never really heard anything bad about Garretts.

You will most likely laugh when I tell you i'm "deloyed" to Qatar lol second time out here, both just 6 monthers. Funny thing is I volunteered to go anywhere and they sent me here both times. Can't argue with that really lol The hell you been out there for three years for? Contractor?
 
  #63  
Old 06-09-2012, 01:24 PM
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Oh and the distant plans right now are to at least get past the 600 mark. built motor for that, i know the modd bug will take me farther to sleeve it and shoot for that 900 mark. Very distant future for that much though lol.

Plan is to actually pick up a used GTR after im done in korea. Keeping the G forever though you know. Too much time and money already invested in it and nobody is going to pay what i think it is worth lol
 
  #64  
Old 06-09-2012, 01:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Th3R3dStar323
Hell yeah man never really heard anything bad about Garretts.

You will most likely laugh when I tell you i'm "deloyed" to Qatar lol second time out here, both just 6 monthers. Funny thing is I volunteered to go anywhere and they sent me here both times. Can't argue with that really lol The hell you been out there for three years for? Contractor?
Qatar.. UL.. IUD..lol u on vacation brah..lmao

U should hit up Dubai if you could.. what a nice place to chill on your return trip..

well in the three years i've been around the Gulf.. and yes as a Contract... but i was MIL back in da day when stuff kicked off in 2001.. glad im out thou.. =)
 
  #65  
Old 06-09-2012, 02:07 PM
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Originally Posted by nyqueenz
The meth was an added ness to keep the temps down.. the "true" reason my engine will not knock at 16lbs of boost is the fact that my engine is at a very low compression 81.
Ahhh, sneeky, lol. Stock compression 10.8:1 correct?
 
  #66  
Old 06-09-2012, 02:13 PM
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Originally Posted by nyqueenz
Give the extra "Cost Factor" towards a good tuner.. even if you have to fly someone down there to help you with tuning..

You can save money on any install/parts/labor.. but if you have a bad tune.. your whole project will go up in smoke..

and to be realistic about the "How much cost factor" going F/I on a N/A car isn't a "set cost" everyone has different factors, kits, labor, prices..etx..

For a 1st timer I wouldn't attempt to try a DIY build.. meaning you "think" you have everything covered and u want to "try to cut cost" the problem factor can play a key role there and afterwards shops would not want to touch anything afterwards.. and will end up costing you more in the long run.

Going F/I requires a lot of "Research", "Time" and a significant amount of funding. If you decide to move forward make sure you have all the "P" covered and all the "I" dotted because you make any wrong choice its gonna be a build that you may end up paying for in the wrong way.

My .02
Yeah unfortunately It will cost me more money cuz I would be wanting to find a mechanic/tuner that can do it all to avoid paying anymore in the long run.
 
  #67  
Old 06-09-2012, 02:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Th3R3dStar323
I started my F/I build since I bought the car lol.

List since Jan 2010 purchase of Becca.

Tanabe Sustech Pro Coilovers $990
SPC Camber kit (front and rear) $380
JWT Heavy Duty Clutch and Flywheel $775
2.5in custom true dual exhaust with cat delete and no mufflers. $400
GTM Stage 2 TT kit w/Osiris (not installed yet) $7500

To be purchased upon return of this deployment.
AEM Wideband O2 Air/Fuel gauge $200
AEM Boost Controller gauge $315
AEM Oil Pressure gauge $200
Osiris MAF sensor $350
Very nice, sounds like pretty much have a collection of everything you need. Which is something I need to do myself if I go this route. So that when I bring over the stuff for an install the mechanic/tuner doesn't tell me I forgot something, lol.

I just wanted to give a shout out to everyone that has contributed in this thread, thanks a lot! I appreciate all the info and real life experiences, and not just thrown a link to a thread to read.
 
  #68  
Old 06-10-2012, 06:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Carnage
Very nice, sounds like pretty much have a collection of everything you need. Which is something I need to do myself if I go this route. So that when I bring over the stuff for an install the mechanic/tuner doesn't tell me I forgot something, lol.

I just wanted to give a shout out to everyone that has contributed in this thread, thanks a lot! I appreciate all the info and real life experiences, and not just thrown a link to a thread to read.
lol yeah it is good to at least get a rough list of what you want/need vs what hp goals you are shooting for.

I researched a lot around here before I actually pulled the trigger and buying GTM's tt kit. Also researched alot before decided i want to go F/I. It is really a big decision because it is expensive.

When i actually get the kit on I will keep everyone update with a build/progress thread.
 
  #69  
Old 06-10-2012, 01:22 PM
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With GT-2860RS 700whp will be the upper limits. GT30s struggle to make 800whp.
 
  #70  
Old 06-10-2012, 01:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Sylvan lake V35
With GT-2860RS 700whp will be the upper limits. GT30s struggle to make 800whp.
thats why I would upgrade to GT35s
 
  #71  
Old 06-10-2012, 01:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Sylvan lake V35
With GT-2860RS 700whp will be the upper limits. GT30s struggle to make 800whp.
Yeah cuz 700whp is so weak!! hahaha! IMO the more whp the more problems even when you spend money on the good stuff, things only last so long before you need to buy the same thing again or spend even more. I'd be happy hitting mid to upper 11s making 500-600whp. Not only that I wouldn't want to cage my car.
 
  #72  
Old 06-10-2012, 06:14 PM
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If you are worried about reliability for a DD i think as long as you stay around 400rwhp and 375rwt you should be ok.I DD my coupe for a long time with 427rwhp and 434rwt and have almost 80,000 miles boosted one way or another and only have had very minor issues.The issues were leaky Greddy oil lines which are a crap design inthemselves and i just had my HKS dl 2 fail which i cant complain as its been a good 6 years old now.
 
  #73  
Old 06-11-2012, 03:23 AM
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Last edited by Sylvan lake V35; 06-11-2012 at 03:31 AM.
  #74  
Old 06-11-2012, 05:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Th3R3dStar323
thats why I would upgrade to GT35s
GT35Rs are pretty big turbos in size.. u may run into fitmint issues under the car.

Originally Posted by Carnage
Yeah cuz 700whp is so weak!! hahaha! IMO the more whp the more problems even when you spend money on the good stuff, things only last so long before you need to buy the same thing again or spend even more. I'd be happy hitting mid to upper 11s making 500-600whp. Not only that I wouldn't want to cage my car.
Running a high HP car isn't really that bad if you think about it.. it all comes down to A: What parts you have installed in the car and B: who tuned the car. The rest just falls down to regular maintenance.

Only issues I've ran into on my build really was leaky fuel lines.. but that’s not a real big deal because lines will leak over time and need tightening. My car sits a lot because of my time out of the US and 2nd, I have multiple vehicles that I can use on a daily. I really just do break in miles on my G35, haven’t track the car even though its setup for track minus tuning the coils and adding race rims/tires.
 

Last edited by nyqueenz; 06-11-2012 at 06:21 AM.



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