Long Term Reliability With Supercharger
#1
Long Term Reliability With Supercharger
What experience have people had with intercooled supercharger systems and G35's?
I have lots of experience with engines designed/engineered for forced inductions and long term reliablity, but a relatively high compression engine and boost/pump fuel scares me a little. I am not looking for the "I just put mine on and it's awesome" response. I am looking for the "I installed mine 4 years ago and put 100k miles on it response."
I have lots of experience with engines designed/engineered for forced inductions and long term reliablity, but a relatively high compression engine and boost/pump fuel scares me a little. I am not looking for the "I just put mine on and it's awesome" response. I am looking for the "I installed mine 4 years ago and put 100k miles on it response."
#2
You are asking way too broad of a question to get a real answer. There are several different superchargers available for the G35, and multiple versions of each in some cases. Plus not everyone installs the same or any supporting mods. Not everyone maintains their vehicle in the same way or drives it the same. Finally not all cars are created equal. Even if you install exact same kit and mods on same cars, they may have different results. But there are many many people that have ran FI on their G35 for years without any issues. There are also some that blew their motors in first month.
To put it in simple terms. If you buy a Stillen, Vortech, or Procharger, install all recommended supporting mods and maintain it properly, odds are in your favor, that you will never have an issue. But when it comes to modifing a car, nothing is ever guaranteed. There is always a chance something could happen, so always ensure you have enough cash in reserves to rebuild an engine.
To put it in simple terms. If you buy a Stillen, Vortech, or Procharger, install all recommended supporting mods and maintain it properly, odds are in your favor, that you will never have an issue. But when it comes to modifing a car, nothing is ever guaranteed. There is always a chance something could happen, so always ensure you have enough cash in reserves to rebuild an engine.
#5
I would have thought recommended/supplied with kits supporting mods and tuning was a given. WIthout those things, I would expect WOT life expectancy to be measured in seconds. Again, I have LOTS of experience with a variety of engines and forced induction, many of which were ground up builds with me supplying/tuning the control system.
I fear being overly specific, because that drastically limits responses. If specificity is required, Stillen Stage 2 Intercooled system with supplied fuel system modifications and piggyback.
My question does not only pertain to the engine itself, but drivetrain longevity as well.
I fear being overly specific, because that drastically limits responses. If specificity is required, Stillen Stage 2 Intercooled system with supplied fuel system modifications and piggyback.
My question does not only pertain to the engine itself, but drivetrain longevity as well.
#6
Drivetrain isnt an issue at all, especially with the Stillen kit. Stillen is probably the safest kit of any available due to low power levels. Stillen stage 2 barely makes more power than simple bolt ons (320whp range). You wont even need larger fuel pump, just injectors. Even stock clutch will be fine.
Long term is a rare thing.
1. People dont usually keep modded cars long term. Usually sold or traded in acouple years.
2. Boost is addictive. Almost everyone that installs a base kit, ends up wanting more. I can only think of one person I know ever that hasnt installed a kit and then not pushed it for more.
Long term is a rare thing.
1. People dont usually keep modded cars long term. Usually sold or traded in acouple years.
2. Boost is addictive. Almost everyone that installs a base kit, ends up wanting more. I can only think of one person I know ever that hasnt installed a kit and then not pushed it for more.
#7
Hence my desire to keep it as broad as possible (long term high mileage with those types of mods not that common with most vehicles).
I am trying to decide if I want to remove an existing kit. I have no desire to "turn it up." I have a very modified "other" car with forged internals that fills my need for temperamental rocket ship. Going for entertaining long term driver for g35.
I am trying to decide if I want to remove an existing kit. I have no desire to "turn it up." I have a very modified "other" car with forged internals that fills my need for temperamental rocket ship. Going for entertaining long term driver for g35.
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#9
There is no answer to your quesiton. Modding is a risk no matter what. Even if you do everything right and baby it, doesnt guarantee you will be problem free. There are many many stock G35s that have engine problems with no mods.
It is up to you to decide if the extra power is worth the added risk.
It is up to you to decide if the extra power is worth the added risk.
#10
Wings Nation
iTrader: (59)
My motor ultimately started losing compression in one cylinder after about 2.5 years. Driveability / reliability started to deteriorate so I opted to do a rebuild with turbos (which are much more fun, btw). I'm 90% sure my issue had to do with tuning issues early on, as well as my eventual desire for more power (which is why I recommend folks stay under 400whp on the stock block).
Shoot me a PM if you have anything specific you want to know.
#11
I installed my vortech in November 2009 and removed it 30k miles later in January 2013. I enjoyed the h@ll out of the extra power and a supercharger is very easy to drive on the street. The vortech kit is also super easy to service yourself, but you do have to deal with belt tension issues, especially if you put smaller pulleys on to get more power.
My motor ultimately started losing compression in one cylinder after about 2.5 years. Driveability / reliability started to deteriorate so I opted to do a rebuild with turbos (which are much more fun, btw). I'm 90% sure my issue had to do with tuning issues early on, as well as my eventual desire for more power (which is why I recommend folks stay under 400whp on the stock block).
Shoot me a PM if you have anything specific you want to know.
My motor ultimately started losing compression in one cylinder after about 2.5 years. Driveability / reliability started to deteriorate so I opted to do a rebuild with turbos (which are much more fun, btw). I'm 90% sure my issue had to do with tuning issues early on, as well as my eventual desire for more power (which is why I recommend folks stay under 400whp on the stock block).
Shoot me a PM if you have anything specific you want to know.
I will likely remove the blower from the car. Even if engine longterm mechanical reliability is unaffected, I am not a fan of add on fuel delivery systems for forced induction. It is quite easy to have a failure in these systems, without the driver being aware of it, running the vehicle lean with too much timing under boost.
I will leave the SC kit on the car, but the kit will be perpetually for sale. When some one buys it I will remove it.
#12
I feel like a moron. I wish someone would have pointed out the "sticky" at the top with people basically answering this question. I would have gotten blasted on every other forum I have ever been a member. You guys must be slightly nicer than average.
While my plan was to take this off and sell it, knowing how conservative this particular kit appears to be, my only "reason" would be my inherent distrust of secondary fuel/spark controls.
While my plan was to take this off and sell it, knowing how conservative this particular kit appears to be, my only "reason" would be my inherent distrust of secondary fuel/spark controls.
#13
I would leave it on, and get a wideband A/F gauge and a fuel pressure gauge.
Monitoring these two parameters should let you know when the fuel system starts acting up.
And a boost gauge, if you don't already have it. It's fun to watch it go into boost, or stay out of it if you're looking for longevity.
I usually monitor fuel pressure the most, since that what is going in the engine, but it's also nice to see what is coming out (A/F wideband).
But, like you said, you could put it up for sale at a good (slightly high) price, and if someone is willing to pay it, take it off.
But when I supercharge a car, I never take it back down again.
Monitoring these two parameters should let you know when the fuel system starts acting up.
And a boost gauge, if you don't already have it. It's fun to watch it go into boost, or stay out of it if you're looking for longevity.
I usually monitor fuel pressure the most, since that what is going in the engine, but it's also nice to see what is coming out (A/F wideband).
But, like you said, you could put it up for sale at a good (slightly high) price, and if someone is willing to pay it, take it off.
But when I supercharge a car, I never take it back down again.
#14
#15
I know what you mean, but an exhaust shop can weld you bung in pretty easily and cheaply.
But your right, the G interior flows to well on it's own, and most gauges stick out like a sore thumb.
I wish Speed of Sound made gauge pods for the G. Here's a pic of the set up I had in the Mustang. Not my pic, but I had the same gauges/pod/color.
These pods don't look bad either
But your right, the G interior flows to well on it's own, and most gauges stick out like a sore thumb.
I wish Speed of Sound made gauge pods for the G. Here's a pic of the set up I had in the Mustang. Not my pic, but I had the same gauges/pod/color.
These pods don't look bad either
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