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So wire 17 on your diagram (White with blue stripe) has been messed with a lot. I can’t make heads or tails with what it’s intention was. One area shows to where it has been tapped into and another area it’s been cut but I think it was to bypass it. It’s almost as if they ran it directly to something somewhere else. I’ll really have to deep dive but the harness isn’t as bad as it looks. If I can undo the mess with the white blue I should be able to clean things up a bit and keep using it this current harness.
So upon further investigation i'm seeing that the white with blue stripe wire is tampered with a lot. But upon tracing back some wiring from an old electronic boost controller that is no longer in use i found this. Is the bigger guage white wire with blue strip thats under the dash just a power accessorie wire? If any this is definitely causing a draw, i unhooked it but unsure if it's actually tapped into the what leads to the same white and blue striped wire that's tapped into the IGN CONT & ECCS fuse.
So i fixed the problem... turns out the wire going into the pigtail for the evap vent solenoid attached to the canister was rubbed raw and arcing on the exhaust hanger.... so i didn't know this but the older greddy evolution rs exhaust relocated the evap and it puts the connector front and center of the exhaust hanger. So i bought a new pig tail and attached it and put lots of protection around it and wrapped electrical tape around the nipple of the hanger. Car now runs and drives.... until lol... i get the code for right and left cam position sensors malfunctioned. I swear i've replaced them less than a year ago. I found a thread and lots are having the problem with no viable solution. It's a bit frustrating. I know the issue begins right after i fill the tank full and of course it's having a hard time accepting gas to a full tank with it clicking off. Car runs fine for now but it'll just start throwing the code and have to turn over for a few seconds before it decides it will start over. I reset the codes and i am now on my way. Pictures below of the arcing issue.
Also, there was probably never anything wrong with your fuel pump, it just wasn't receiving the signal to turn ON from the ECM so it never had power until the fuse was replaced.
I would start with things like the MAF, inspect the wiring harness to make sure nothing is melted in the engine bay, could be MAF or the cam/crank sensors, if you have the rev-up engine it has the exhaust timing stuff, if you don't have the rev-up then ignore that. Coil packs, intake timing solenoids, etc.
Basically those items all get POWER through that fuse 77 (then send their signal back to the ECM), if any of those components has damaged wiring that is intermittently shorting out it's going to blow that fuse.
It's probably somewhere in the engine bay harness. Alternately you can source a used harness from eBay or pull one from a salvage vehicle and just replace the entire harness. Sometimes it's easier to do that than it is to track down the one spot on the harness that's got damaged insulation and intermittently grounding out.
Originally Posted by cleric670
Actually scratch that, I looked up that fuse in question, fuse 77 in the IPDM does NOT go to the fuel pump. Here's a few snippets from the FSM that relate to fuse 77. Pay particular attention to the last image, everything inside that red box could have potentially failed and is causing the fuse to blow, if you have been messing with any of those systems that's where I would start, otherwise it's going to be a matter of individually unplugging components to see what's shorted out.
so what if none of the pigtails that belong to any of the things in the red box are damaged what could be the next move
06-22-2020, 06:38 PM
