So if the APS TT is a little over the top, that's still a good thing right. Also, would he recommend getting the TN ST kit over the APS TT?

 

Repsol, He said what I posted. Nothing more.

For those of you who want to know how happy I am with this system, I'M ESTATIC! I'll post my dyno sheets below (check out how rich I get above 5500rpm's). The guys said my car was really tempermental and was really hard to get tuned properly. All air fuel readings were taken from the driver's side cat bung which Kevin Pierson told me seems to run a little more lean from his experimentation than the passengers side bung.

I opted for the 3.12 pulley and the Crawford Plenum and Headers really helped me maintain high horsepower and torque at much lower boost levels.

Example: I have the 3.12 pulley (2004.5 6MT), hit 9.0 psi and pull 388rwhp and 331rwtq. G8tor20 has the 3.12 pulley (2005 5AT), hits 10.5 psi and pulls 384rwhp and ~314rwtq (going from memory).

I really think that if I add a lighter flywheel (and a new clutch) get another exhaust from the midpipe back or just get a slightly more aggressive tune I could easily join the 400rwhp club, but I have no desire to mess with something that is working so well at the present time.

 

for bigger pics, see the second post in this thread... Our trip to CP Racing in North Carolina...

 

Yeah I hit 380 with the stock pulley. If I had the 3.12 Im sure I would be over 400

 

Jason, you definitely need to get the a/f a tad lower.. luckily I am back on the super rich stock map, just hoping the guys at next level didn't do any damage to my car running it twice at 14+ a/f. I wish it wasn't suck a pain to troubleshoot boost leaks.. I know what I am doing this weekend.

 

I am not comfortable with my readings. They seem to be off from my final tune-run at CP Race. That was the one problem with CP Race being 7 hours away. I guess I am forced to spend the money on a re-tune at Coastal Dyno. Ugghhh

I may get back on the rich map as well....

 

Jason, I am probably going to try to retighten my belt this Friday afternoon. My boost seems to be down to ~8psi near redline after putting about 650 miles on the car. I'm also gonna check the belt tightness today before I crank the car up and head home from work to see if it rotates more than it did at CP Racing.

Correct me if I'm wrong but I don't think that there is any way for your tune to change by itself. If CP Racing tuned your car, it should keep the same parameters. How would it just get more lean? Can you see the dyno runs at CP Racing on your print out? If so, how do those dyno runs compare to your latest WOT pulls in 3rd gear?

 

Thats what is confusing. I see the final run from CP and my a/f barely hits 12 but stays below 12 most of the time. I flogged the car last night with the laptop and saved my runs. My rpm's are messed up but I can see my boost and a/f and I run above 12 all the way until redline where it drops to 11.9. It's just confusing me.

 

the turbonetics single turbo is what i actually have been waiting for. 2 years. 2 long a$$ years, and now they've finally got something almost ready (tuner kit). my front bumper has been sitting with a big gaping hole in the middle for too long. well i know who is going to do my install...

thanks neff for the scoop.

 

As with any tune that uses base maps type tuning when variables change so can your A/F ratio.. So depending on where and under what conditions you were tuned real street numbers can differe greatly, which is why street tuning is always considered the best form of getting the full potential out of a setup. While dyno tuning may just yield you higher logistical numbers for props..

My 2 cents..

 

You gonna do this yourself? I never got the instructions from CP. You'll have to show me again unless there is a good write-up somewhere.

 

It is a pretty simple process.. I am actually going to adjust my BOV tonight, so I would be able to make a quick write-up with pictures if you want?

 

Yes..please. My boost has gone from 10.4 peak to 8.4 peak. It does have 700 miles since the install. Like Todd said...maybe by thie weekend, she'll be ready for the tightening.

 

Just a tip, cut a small hole on the under fairing right below the tension bolt. That way you can reach it without taking everything off all the time.

 

That's exactly what I plan on doing. Maybe use a 3/8" bit to drill a pilot hole then follow up with a 2 and 3/4" bit and make a nice peep hole to see that screw from the bottom.

Is there a simple diy that one of you FI pioneers have put together that you can link? It would make me feel much more comfortable if I could see what I should do before I actually attempt to do it.

TIA