Vortech Belt tightening question
#16
Originally Posted by turbomaxima
I thought you were asking if you were CHANGING one belt.. I interpretted your question wrong and I apologize. Hopefully I didn't cost you too much time.
I was changing both belts because I had to remove my UR underdrive pulley when I installed my Vortech.
#17
Originally Posted by OldVFRGuy
No problem ....I was just busting your chops....... I just had to stop and run to NAPA and grab one cause I left my old one at home, thinking I didn't need it.
I was changing both belts because I had to remove my UR underdrive pulley when I installed my Vortech.
I was changing both belts because I had to remove my UR underdrive pulley when I installed my Vortech.
#18
#19
Well instead of hacking the crap out of the bottom of my cover I took an ice pic and worked my hand down from the top of the car and gently punched a hole through the plastic cover. This pilot hole was then used with a 2" circular drill bit with a guide post (the kind you would use to cut out a circular hole in a door to install a door ****).
I made this hole in the PERFECT location. It actually took me longer to screw 3 pieces of 1/2" maple together with a 3.5" progressive step system to make custom ramps for my car. I loosened the pulley, tightened the screw from the bottom almost 4 FULL TURNS then checked the belt. It was super tight and then I snugged up the pulley on top. (Unfortunately my torque wrench has a 1/2" fitting so my 1/2" to 3/8" reducer plus the socket was too long to get on the nut on the tensioner pulley. I decided to go the brute force method of tightening the pulley w/o using the torque wrench, while making sure not to over tighten it. I'm pretty sure it's on well and won't be coming off any time soon.
Thanks for the help guys!
I made this hole in the PERFECT location. It actually took me longer to screw 3 pieces of 1/2" maple together with a 3.5" progressive step system to make custom ramps for my car. I loosened the pulley, tightened the screw from the bottom almost 4 FULL TURNS then checked the belt. It was super tight and then I snugged up the pulley on top. (Unfortunately my torque wrench has a 1/2" fitting so my 1/2" to 3/8" reducer plus the socket was too long to get on the nut on the tensioner pulley. I decided to go the brute force method of tightening the pulley w/o using the torque wrench, while making sure not to over tighten it. I'm pretty sure it's on well and won't be coming off any time soon.
Thanks for the help guys!
#21
#22
Originally Posted by neffster
Well instead of hacking the crap out of the bottom of my cover I took an ice pic and worked my hand down from the top of the car and gently punched a hole through the plastic cover. This pilot hole was then used with a 2" circular drill bit with a guide post (the kind you would use to cut out a circular hole in a door to install a door ****).
I made this hole in the PERFECT location.
I made this hole in the PERFECT location.
Did your hole wind up comming out in front....or behind the sway bar??
My fat Stillen bar looks like it is smack in th middle of where I need to be.
#23
#24
2/3 of the hole is in front of the stock swaybar and 1/3 of the hole is under it. When I take the 12" socket extension with the 12mm socket and put the socket onto the screw, the back of the extension glides right up the center of the hole I drilled.
My suggestion is to start with an ice pic and carefully put your arm between the radiator and the belt. (best to do with a cold car ) Gently put pressure on the sharp ice pic and it will pop through the bottom of the plastic cover. Then take a drill and make a 1/2" dia. hole from the beneath the car. Now try to align a straight portion of a coat hanger (or dowel rod) through the hole to see how far forward or back you need to drill the next larger hole size (I made a 2 or 2.25" hole). It should be painfully obvious once you make the 1/2" hole if you use something like a pipe cleaner or a straight portion of a wire coat hanger and a flash light and try to touch the bottom of the screw through the small hole.
Terry, You can always call me if you have any questions.
Jason, Actually Terry's the one who suggested I use 2x8's to make a ramp. I had to improvise and had some scrap maple left over from my kitchen remodel 'experience'.
My suggestion is to start with an ice pic and carefully put your arm between the radiator and the belt. (best to do with a cold car ) Gently put pressure on the sharp ice pic and it will pop through the bottom of the plastic cover. Then take a drill and make a 1/2" dia. hole from the beneath the car. Now try to align a straight portion of a coat hanger (or dowel rod) through the hole to see how far forward or back you need to drill the next larger hole size (I made a 2 or 2.25" hole). It should be painfully obvious once you make the 1/2" hole if you use something like a pipe cleaner or a straight portion of a wire coat hanger and a flash light and try to touch the bottom of the screw through the small hole.
Terry, You can always call me if you have any questions.
Jason, Actually Terry's the one who suggested I use 2x8's to make a ramp. I had to improvise and had some scrap maple left over from my kitchen remodel 'experience'.
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05-22-2020 09:21 AM