Here is the dyno chart, and below the list of mods. Car will be fully track tested this week, then at the DUB Magazine show at the LA convention center on Sunday the 19th, and the Performance Nissan show on Feb 25 at Citrus College.


http://forums.freshalloy.com/ubbthre...d&sb=5&o=&vc=1

479 rwhp and 566 lbft of rear wheel torque on 2003 6mt coupe. Tuned by Jim Wolf and Clark on dynapak at their facility in El Cajon. Engine build courtesy of VRT. Many of the mods below were previously done, but this is the current package with the VRT engine build.

Engine/drivetrain modifications:

JWT TT using modified T-28 Garret ball bearing turbos, CP pistons at 8.5 to 1 static compression ratio, Pauter rods, Jim Wolf S2 cams, high flow intercooler

Thermal coating to inside and outside of exhaust manifolds and turbo housing using TurboX, and to piping using CermaKrome, both metallic-ceramic.

Motordyne iso-thermal plenum spacer with aramid gasket

JWT aluminum oil pan spacer

Koyo aluminum radiator, Redline Water Wetter, Peak coolant-water mix

Samco hoses

Amsoil pre-oiler and BMK-13 bypass filter, 10+ quarts amsoil 0-30W oil.

Stillen oil cooler

Nismo Power steering cooler

Odyssey lightweight dry battery

Fluidamper harmonic crankshaft balancer/pulley

ATS lightweight flywheel and triple disc carbon clutch

Nismo lsd with redline differential oil and MOC lubricant

HKS dual exhaust, crawford high flow catalytic converters



Handling Modifications:

VRT strut tower brace front, Stillen strut tower brace rear

Stillen sway bars front/rear

Nismo bushings

Tein Flex coilover dampers with 12kg springs

Tein Electronic Damping Force Control unit

Performance Nissan adjustable front upper control arms

Stillen rear camber links

Stop Tech 14.1" big brake kit with Motul 600 RBF, Pagid Orange brake pads

Enkei NT03 +M wheels powder coated black

Nitto NT-01 tires 275/35/18 F and 315/30/18 R

Corner balanced


Miscellaneous:

Rogue short shifter with Nismo rubber GT ****

Autovation drilled pedals

Custom welded six point roll bar with quick release harness bar

Vis vented carbon fiber hood (painted oem ivory pearl)

Sparco Milano front seats with pull down harnesses

Full array of electronic warning gauges and meters, electronic boost controller, etc.

 

Damn!!!!!

 

Waht he said! I saw this car on another site and was blown away, it sounds as if everything that can be done to the car was. Very impressive set-up! BTW I love the stealth (glove box gauges) one of my next mods for sure. My hats off to you bro!

 

eagle1, i didnt know that was your car, its been a long time since ive seen you post, the car is looking great, and should be a beast at the track. i want/need a set of those nitto-nt1s, is the car gonna be a daily driver or just track use?

once again nice job.

 

outstaniding numbers!!!!

 

The car is configured/compromised to be civil as a daily driver. Otherwise some of the choices made would have been more aggressive on handling (sway bar stiffness/lsd setting/etc), weight reduction (take out air conditioning/stereo/back seat/etc), and power (14 psi boost instead of 12).
Some of the complexities come from trying to "have it all", realizing that one cannot and thus has to make some trade-offs, and then determining how to do it.

What you or I may consider a reasonable trade off, somebody else could shriek in horror over. For example. I really do not mind the little "squeak squeak" of the high performance bushings, and as a trade off to the impression that there is a small pack of hamsters occasionally on the loose in your body work, the crisper handling and responsiveness is a constant delight in daily driving, and on the track it is hugely beneficial in the feel it gives back to you.
The lightweight flywheel and clutch has a take up that might be as deep as an eighth of an inch. (Emphasize "might be"). We can deal with that happily for the joy of more precise and swift rev matching during downshifts while braking...while somebody else would be furious over stalling it five times in a row because they are used to the sloppy action of the clutch in the Buick their dad taught them to drive in. I just enjoy it as practice for the real deal. So no complaints.

Will I drive it daily? Probably not. Will I drive it a couple of times a week to work? Definitely. It got 23,000 miles on the supercharger, and there was a lot of that on the commute to and from work, a couple of fun trips and touring too.

I used to drive it to the track, then rumble all day, and drive it home. As far away as Sears Point and Laguna Seca. Now with the more aggressive settings, and the NT-01 tires, I will probably put it on an open trailer and haul it to the track. Mostly just to save those long miles on the tires etc. But also....John Q Law never really noticed the car to this point. (I was stopped one time...and it was only because the officer wanted to check it over because he liked it!) But now........to be on the highway in it is to be begging for pull over and inspection. It is totally street legal, but as soon as you put decals on it, you are asking for somebody in uniform who had a bad day to take it out on you with a citation for some type of "fix it". Besides, if something does get bent or broken far from home at least now I have a way to get back! People are people, and the car is no longer "stealth", so might as well be practical about it. We don't build badminton courts in minefields, so we shouldn't drive on highways in cars that scream "officer, lookie here!".

Thanks for the encouragement. I will get some track video going soon and post those up so we can see how it works out on the courses.

The Nitto NT-01 is a great dry weather track tire. Very stiff sidewall with strong modulus response, and gummy. It does have more noise or whine than the Toyo RA-1 due to the large siping cuts, but it grips better too. I have a set of each, and have the Toyos for the wet, and the Nitto for the dry. After trying out the Nitto at their unveiling of the tire at Cal Speedway last year, I was totally convinced that on this rebuild I would use it. How well that big 315 in the rear will help keep the power down and not spinning as the torque on this car is virtually never below 400 lbft, will be a big issue.

 

Eagle nice set up!! Can you post a pic of the VRT tower bar and pm me how much? Are you going to upgrade your axles with that much TQ going to the ground? I know that it matters for drag I'm not sure for track use though. How long did it take to build your car? I'm not even going to ask how much I know that it was alot along with your previous mods. Awesome none the less I can't wait for the new track videos!!!

 

Here you go.

 

how does the power feel if you open it up on a long stretch of road, im used to seeing the peak numbers in the VRT cars very early in the power band, say 5-5.5krpms, and then they drop a little, can you feel the drop or does it still feel powerful after peak. i know on a track thats something you will most likely not encounter since youll be staying in or near the sweet spot.

 

I am itching to find out. The car is delivered Monday. The car is not set up for drag or 0-60 times, so I have no current plan to modify the driveshaft or axles. If I lose one at the track...then we will know!

We won't be opening up the beast on a stretch of road, because the Zero to Jail time would not be worth it. Tempting yes, but worth it, no. And with those numbers above, it would likely happen incredibly fast. However, as there has never been a car built that is faster than CHP RADIO.......and California highways are just not the place to fool around for your own safety and that of others, it isn't going to happen. It may sound silly to some folks but, truly, on the track it is such a blast to go fast, and also so much safer, that when you get back on the roads with the public, then you pucker up because you truly realize just how dangerous it is out on the highways with all the morons and poor road conditions.

As soon as I can get my first track day in, you bet I will be watching for that and a hundred more things, and reporting back on as much of it as I can. But looking at the curve above, the power extends out pretty strong from 3800 to 5000 rpms, and that is pretty long. It is also where I will be "living" on the track. The supercharger had to be up high in the rpms to give the biggest power, and I ran it there with confidence. It was great and going by people sounding like an F-18 jet was super cool. Here on this set up I am going to have to relearn how to drive the car, and expect that shifting will be closer to 5k rpms instead of 6.5k rpms.

For info on the strut tower brace for the front, send a pm to Scott or email him at wa2good@hotmail.com

 

Couple question for you that maybe you can answer since you just had your car done.

1. Those T28, can you upgrade and get larger turbo(s)? Will the JWT piping support a larger turbine housing.
2. Do you know what airflow and psi that JWT kit will support?

Sorry for the questions I am just curious, I am looking to make some hp/tq down the road and I am wondering if I will be able to use an existing kit or buy one and modify the crap out of it.

 

The T-28 will max out around 530 rwhp. It is a smaller unit intended to spool up faster, and provide less lag. What you use depends on what performance parameters you are looking for. IF you want more power, then you are going to have to go to a bigger turbine. Piping is easy, that is just hollow tube. The hard part is the complex balance of fuel and air delivery. For the small Garrett T-28 what we are seeking is a unit that optimizes its power delivery with the natural attributes of the VQ35DE motor for a track car. It just so happens that it matches up nicely with that motor for this use. If for example you want a drag type car, I do not think you would pick the T-28. If you want a dyno queen, you definitely do not pick it. One big turbo would give you the best max power, but you will have lag and it will take a while to get to the max power because the larger impeller takes more exhaust gas flow to get into into the production of boost.

 

Okay thanks for the info. I am not after a track car, but I would like something that will make me 650-700rwhp/and hopefully I can make over 550-575rwtq. Where are you currently seeing full spool with your set up(you may not be able to answer till you get on the street and see full load)? I agree with you that having to wait till 5000rpm for full spool would suck, but 3500-4000rpm would be okay if I can see 650-700rwhp. Sorry for cutting into your thread, if you want we can go to PM's. I am just trying to gather initial information so I can make a decision.

 

It is no problem at all. We are all trying to help each other along.

You will have to step up to a much bigger pair of TT, maybe the Greddy kit will be a good one to do some checking into, if the power you are talking about is the objective. The real issue is ..... what are you going to use it for?

If you just want a dyno chart to show it probably does not matter a whole bunch. Roll it up, tie it down, dial it up, let it rip. Hit "print". Dial it down, untie it, roll it down. It is going to be a bit twitchy at those levels for bopping around town as a daily driver, unless you dial it down.

If you want to be going down to your local strip and doing a little racing, that means launching starts with the kind of power you are talking about requires you to think about the rear end, and of course tires to hook it up. The 315 Nittos on 10.5 rims with 30mm offset are what I have, and that is about as big as one can fit in the stock wheel well in back....except the Nitto NT-01 is the wrong tire for that application...it takes about a lap or so to heat it up, so auto cross and drag launch is not its thing. A drag radial tire is going to be needed, and you may need to tub the rear wheel wells to get a wide enough tire to use. I think that after about 400-450 rwhp the major issue you are going to have is not power, but rather having the set up capable of holding the power to the ground and not spinning the wheels, and not breaking the axles, or other drive elements. Tires and suspension are more important at that level than just the power. It is a balance.

Have fun with the project!

 

Yeah I am going to check into the APS kit as well. I want the car to do a bit of dragging, be a fun roll racer, odd track day, etc. Just an all around good street car. I will not run it at those power levels everyday, but would like to be able to run between 500-575 on a daily basis, I am thinking with the right size turbo and what not that this will be obtainable at 15-16psi which should be okay on pump. Then turn the wick up when I wanna go and have fun with some good C16.

I am already knowing the rearend, halfshafts, tranny will need some work to handle it. Know any companies making a full length subframe connector? Haven't had any luck finding anything yet.

Really I am trying to build the car to half as keep up with my two brothers. One has a 2003 4v Mach 1 and the other has an 2004 SVT Cobra, both of which will be turboed down the road and making over 700rwhp. As well I just wanna do something different, I feel the engine is capable just going to take some research and work.

Thanks for your help.