Hey guys this is my first post on these boards and from reading a lot of the other discussions i have been able to aquire a wealth of knoweledge about g35's and their engines. Thanks for all you guys who know what your doing and help out others in there own quest for their perfect g. Anyways i am buying a g35 coupe 6MT 03/04 in the next month or two and i intend to have it ATI Procharged/Vortech by christmas 2006.... right off the bat i will be wanting to do a few engine mods including exhaust plenum spacer and intake. the normal stuff. Please let me know the correct combo for these items keeping in mind that down the road it will be procharged and possibly Nitrous intercooled. I have heard the invidia exhaust and like the looks....i just want a lot of power for a good price...not the most expensive but one with a good sound that isnt overpowering on the interstate droning wise....thanks for all your help. Also if you recomend other things besides this combo...roughly $2500 to spend hopefully less so i can do wheels and tires.

 

well... first off... is your budget only $2500? if so, you're not going to be able to procharged, supercharged, turbocharge anything....... but i would rec. vortech over procharged, mainly b.c most on the thread here has it and loves it....
rec as follows..... my opinion of course....:
supercharger: Vortech
pleneum: crawford
Intake: Stillen w/ z-tube combo
Headers: Crawford (is much more expensive to have and install, but will yield the best power)
High Flow Cats: Crawford
UR Crank Pulley
HKS Ti TD Exhaust
And gauges, etc....... good luck on your quest

 

Hey, no my budget wont always be 2500 thats just how much i am going to have right from the get go. The Supercharger will be added christmas time along with other stuff between now and then i just wanted to know what you guys thought bolt-on wise if i was going with the supercharger and possibly the nitrous intercooler down the road. Thanks for the quick reply

 

w000000000, +2 more hp at peak, well worth the extra $1000+

 

+5

Get borla or topspeed or strup

 

with those exhaust systems is one of them more quite than the others while still opening enough to allow a good ratio of torque to hp once supercharged. i dont want to open it up to the point that it loses to much backpressure and causes a loss of torque during supercharging. thanks for your input

 

If your gonna go FI, air flow is key. Definately go with a True Dual System. Most are i think 2.5" piping cat-back, which is more then stock and definately enough to yield a few more ponies with FI. Im going Vortech, heres what I would do:

Headers: Topspeed or Alphawerks (Alphawerks proves more gains, also costs 200+ more then Topspeed)
Plenum: Crawford of Kinetix SSV (SSV will run you 790 shipped, replaces upper and lower plenum, crawford is only upper, plus SSV got Bling)
Exhaust: I have Topspeed Pro-1 which is single 3" exhaust, bought it before I made the FI decision, plus I like the Deep Loud tone of it, again its personal opinion when it comes to exhaust, but TD will prob gain a few more ponies.
Pullies: Definately dont get UR pullies, you wll have to take them off when you get the Pro/Vortech, either get the KJR lightweight crank Pulley or CNR Pulley set which is all 3 pullies and lightweight
Cats: Id definately go with crawford, now with the second gen HFC, the welds are better and no one has had a problem with the cracking
Intake: Wll be pointless after you go FI, but for now its personal prefrence

My setup is in my sig, as far as the kit goes when you get it you also have many options as to tuner kits and different Engine Management, or the complete Vortech with the SS Box. Thats a whole other story, but for now get your car breathing. As far as losing torque, you will when you not FI because you are losing backpressure, but you will gain up top. When you get the Pro/Vortech, you will see less PSI but more power, the more backpressure the more PSI, the less back pressure the more HP.

-Chris

 

Sounds great. One quick thing tho. if i had wanted top end i would have gone with a twin turbo set up. I like the instant torque you get with the supercharge system because i will be doing mainly city driving with minimal freeway driving. Thanks for your reply Chris it is real informative. if you had to chose the order in which to get the mods what would it be. keep in mind that i dont want to spend money on things that wont be used or be a detriment to the superchargers performance considering i will be getting the supercharger installed in 7 months or so. ( also can you give a estimated hp number with the parts u listed installed along with prices for each) ---if you dont want to or dont have enough time ill understand. Thanks so much you guys are very helpful

 

The thing is your gonna have to chose one or the other, HP or Torque, a lot of airflow = horsepower. Ill prob be able to give you a much better answer on the torque thing once I get my Vortech installed. Being I have exhaust work done from the headers back, and im getting the Kinetix SSV, theres not much more airflow you can add. So best bet is to let me get my Vortech installed 4/22, and then I will post the numbers. Also Ive heard that even though the Vortech puts out higher torque numbers, the ST and TT are equal if not better in low range since the turbos are at full boost by 3k RPM? give or take. Price wise this is what your looking at for all the stuff I got:

Crawford PLenum: $350
Kinetix Plenum: $790
Motordyne Plenum Spacer: $225 w/o iso thermal, w/ iso thermal $275~$315
Pro-1 Headers: $275
Pro-1 Y-Pipe: $199
HFC/Test Pipes: $150~$500 (stock cats will cut down the flow a lot and are very heavy, definately reccomend some Crawford HFC)
Pro-1 Exhaust: I think ebay has it for like 350 shipped, give or take.

Bold is what I have/or getting

Another thing is, if you gonna do exhaust, start from the back and work your way up (exhaust, y-pipe, HFC, Headers) because im sure there will be some gain, but probaby minimal if you put headers in with all stock exhaust, your going from big openings to small openings, to get the full effect you need the whole package.

To start I would get an Plenum(crawford, Kinetix, Motordyne Plenum Spacer, you pick), exhaust, and K&N air filter. If you can wait on the other modding until you are right about to get the Vortech installed, because your gonna lose torque no matter what you do, you let the car breathe you lose torque, end of story. If you start of with an exhaust and the K&N, youll fell a little more pull on the top end and wont sacrafice torque, there is nothing to increase torque in our cars other then going FI, so your gonna have to deal with it until you get the Vortech installed.

Horsepower your looking at anywhere between 360~400 rwhp, depending on the tune, what you tune with, any added accessories like injectors, fuel pump. The Vortech setup I got was Vortech Tuner Kit, UTEC, RC440 Injectors, Walbro Fuel Pump, Return Fuel System and NGK One Step Colder Plugs. The return fuel system people will argue that its not necessary, but its for safety and also when your injecting more fuel into the system you need something better than what stock comes with.

Hope I answered all your questions, if not ill be happy to help , and like I said, Ill give you a dyno sheet between 4/22 and 4/29 and then you can start modding from there. Sorry about such a long post.

-Chris

 

Chris is right..w/ the vortech or ATI you dont wanna use the UR pulleys.....I heard you'll lose power w/ them??

 

No worries man thanks for the informative post. Im so jealous that your getting your vortech installed so soon. Just in time for summer! Anyways thanks alot for all the info and also how much do you think the vortech plus install and tune is going to run you?

 

Install they said it would take like 10 hours at $80/hour, so $800 for install. The vortech prices went up so I dont know how much the kits, or tuner kits are. But I would definately go Tuner Kit and get a UTEC. All the other stuff like gauges are gonna cost a little more on top of the install, not sure how much yet, again ill let you know when its all done. And wit the UR pullies, I dont even think they would fit, thats why they dont work, not only would you lose power, but it wouldnt work.

-Chris

 

Sometimes...it is just how your combination of mods work together.

When I installed my Vortech and took it to CPR to be tuned, they looked at my set up and said "you may not see big power with your exhaust not being a true dual set up".

I have the following mods:
MotorDyne plenum spacer
Kinetix HF Cats
Gruppe S Y pipe
Modified stock Mid pipe
Greddy SP2 rear muffler

The first dyno pull with the out of the box program was 329 rwhp....kinda low.

After tuning for about an hour and making 30+ dyno pulls, they handed me the print out and said "nevermind....your set up is working for you!"
It was now 417 rwhp!

I wanted it waaay safe so we put some more fuel back in up top...and I'm running pretty rich but safe. I see AF around 10.9s on my Zeitronix at WOT and 8 lbs of boost (on the stock pulley).

I'm happy......

 

Bando
Im not trying to bust your bubble or insult you , or the shop that tuned your car . But if you made 329whp going in , on the fisrt pull . Your whp with out pulley changes , will not jump 70 to 90 more whp . I dont care how good of tuner they are .
It was a tuner trick...alot of them do it that tune on a load base dyno . You come in the door . They do a base line dyno pull . Show you the dyno sheet . They then tune your car and make it much better . Then for the last pull , they add in a correction factor to get the dyno graph to read like DynoJet numbers . And you are amazed at the whp you gained . When if fact you gained maybe 20 or 30 whp . If they wouldnt have put in the correction you would show 340 to 360whp .
Like I said , Im not try to upset anyone . I just like every to know what is being done and why . Tuners are alway in competition with each other , and if one can show that he can makes more power than the next , or his dyno reads higher . They end up getting more buisness . Nature of the game . Some use a higher correction factor than others and get higher numbers than other tuner/dyno operators .

 

Well....I agree and disagree......

The real number may not be 395 rwhp......all dynos are different and only used as a reference...

but the difference in pre tune and post tune #'s is due to a lot of tweaking of the SS box and the software to optimize the system over the pig rich stock program.... not fluffed up numbers to look good.