This is getting scary...
Originally Posted by sickg35s
The stock voretch tune is sh**. Just like every other company they want to have a good price for there setup out of the box and not charge a huge price. So vortech supply's the lowest cost ECU that will work just enough to say the kit works. "I'm pretty safe now, but actually worried about a bad tune", that statement is completely backwards. Your not safe unless the car is tuned period.......
Actually, the HKS kit and maybe one other box is locked...can't be tuned. I guess the HKS kit is dangerous, yet I've haven't heard of any blown engines with HKS. Actually, the HKS kit gets alot of praise for build quality.
I would think as long as your A/F is good , there is plenty of timing retard for that boost level . As soon as it gets warmer that boost level will come down . I just wouldnt go out and run it up to 7000rpm all the time in the cool weather
Originally Posted by booger
Yes...you will make more boost in cooler temps .
The SS box is more than capable of a good tune on the Vortech , Stillen , JWT TT , and one other TT kit . It is a lower priced EMU . But if it wasnt good enough , I dont think all of these companies would be using it
The SS box is more than capable of a good tune on the Vortech , Stillen , JWT TT , and one other TT kit . It is a lower priced EMU . But if it wasnt good enough , I dont think all of these companies would be using it
I agree the box is good for low low boost but you have no options of tuning your car w/ that box.. Get the F-Con(HKS), that is a nice standalone..
Where are you measuring the boost? I mean high boost doesn't necessarily mean it's dangerous. It all depends on what the manifold pressure is and even more so, how much is in the cylinders. You can have 40 psi measured right after the outlet of the SC but if you're trying to push it through a 10mm throttle body, the manifold pressure will probably be next to nothing and thus no danger.
Dan,
I have a stock 8 psi pulley with a 7100 rpm redline.
Badtziscool,
I'm measuring boost from a tee'd line off the Crawford plenum, so its after the throttle body. The same line feeds the J&S and SS box.
I have a stock 8 psi pulley with a 7100 rpm redline.
Badtziscool,
I'm measuring boost from a tee'd line off the Crawford plenum, so its after the throttle body. The same line feeds the J&S and SS box.
Originally Posted by sickg35s
I agree the box is good for low low boost but you have no options of tuning your car w/ that box.. Get the F-Con(HKS), that is a nice standalone..
And what do you mean..have no option for tuning with that box . Get your facts straight
https://g35driver.com/forums/forced-induction/90271-vrt-s-quest-800-streetable-hp.html
Look here for proof
Last edited by booger; Apr 21, 2006 at 08:46 AM.
Originally Posted by booger
Im running 13 to 14psi with THAT box . Like I said , the SS box is more than capable of running a SC or a TT to 16psi .....I believe JWT has a custom SS box and running it to 20psi on there latest G35 [ not sure ]
And what do you mean..have no option for tuning with that box . Get your facts straight
https://g35driver.com/forums/showthread.php?t=90271
Look here for proof
And what do you mean..have no option for tuning with that box . Get your facts straight
https://g35driver.com/forums/showthread.php?t=90271
Look here for proof
Have you ever tuned w/ a HKS standalone or any other high end ECU. Then you will see many more options available to you then the SS box. If the SS box works for you then thats great.. I just always want the best setup on my car. I had the SS box originally on my vortech and then switched to HKS F-CON and there was a huge difference in the feel of the car. I believe that if you are building your motor and uping boost to 12,13,...psi then you need a real standalone computer. Also w/ the HKS you have the option to run 5 different maps for fuel and boost and switch at the push of a button. I ve had both ECU and believe me there is a HUGE difference in the way your car performs... Night and Day..
i ran into your situation last winter, it was about 33 degrees out nice and cool my boost went from 8psi to almost 10 psi =O and i was like wow. I knew cooler conditions created more boost that that just scared me =/.
Originally Posted by sickg35s
Have you ever tuned w/ a HKS standalone or any other high end ECU. Then you will see many more options available to you then the SS box. If the SS box works for you then thats great.. I just always want the best setup on my car. I had the SS box originally on my vortech and then switched to HKS F-CON and there was a huge difference in the feel of the car. I believe that if you are building your motor and uping boost to 12,13,...psi then you need a real standalone computer. Also w/ the HKS you have the option to run 5 different maps for fuel and boost and switch at the push of a button. I ve had both ECU and believe me there is a HUGE difference in the way your car performs... Night and Day..
IMPO...going to a stand alone with anything under 500whp is kinda overkill . Sooner or later I plan on going to the Utec or the E-Manage U....leaning towards the Utec .
Originally Posted by booger
Thats cool you went to the F-con . And could afford to do so . But going around and telling people that the SS box cant do the job , isnt true . ANy Stand alone is going to do far more that any piggyback . And any piggyback will do a good job for anything the Vortech can put out with a smaller pulley . I , myself tune the car in cool weather [ 40 to 60 degree's ] So if it gets warmer or colder the tune is never to far off .
IMPO...going to a stand alone with anything under 500whp is kinda overkill . Sooner or later I plan on going to the Utec or the E-Manage U....leaning towards the Utec .
IMPO...going to a stand alone with anything under 500whp is kinda overkill . Sooner or later I plan on going to the Utec or the E-Manage U....leaning towards the Utec .
Utec is a great setup.. Recommend it. I was going to go w/ the utec. Then the tuner introduced the F-CON, so I decided that. But he said the UTEC is an excellent setup. Good luck w/ your car.
Originally Posted by Q45tech
You must correct for humidity, temp, and barometric to arrive at a standardized density so the reading on PSI gauge can be translated.
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