This is not an old style transmission, no double clutching required, and if you can properly Rev match...whats the harm?

 

I bought my 05 6MT this spring and agree that it look a little getting used to, especially around town. One of the things that I was doing wrong and have since corrected is shifting too quickly when in town or just cruising around. I've found that slowing down my shifts a bit helped find a better rhythm with the car. If I slow down a bit I tend to catch the next shift as the RPMs are slowing down into the next gear's proper rev range. Go with the what the engine is telling you, if you're just cruising around there's no real need to force the car. If you're racing and driving more "enthusiastically" then this all goes out the window, but that's what has worked for me, your mileage may vary.

Don't know if you're having a similar issue or not but shifting before the RPMs had dropped was the main cause of my own jerky city driving, maybe this will help

 

Double clutching, rarely required on an old transmission. Probably no harm but I think you will get faster shifts sequentially even though it is not a sequential shift transmission.

 

Don't know if someone already mentioned this since I didn't read the whole thing but 6 speed Corvette,Camaro's and TransAm's force you to go from 1st to 4th gear when driving normally.

 

If you are shifting/driving correctly you should never have to replace your clutch (under normal driving conditions)

 

You're doing it wrong. Get it going in third and then you don't need to shift at all.

 

^ hell with it, start it in 6th gear

 

There is a post on how to "lower" the engagement point of our clutch...

Looks a little "mickey mouse" though.

https://g35driver.com/forums/engine-...ent-point.html

 

What!?

Neutral is where the hard launches are.

 

Since it appears to be changing the master cyclinder setting what i would do with this is to watch it at the slave end. I have made similar adjustments on older cars that actually had hydraulics and most of those had some point of end of movement. That is if you watched the slave you could see where it stops moving. What you want to make sure is that if you lower the point to closer to the floor you want to make sure that you have a fully disengaged clutch before you hit the floor. The same if you bring it too close to the top, that it is fully engaged before it is fully in the up position. This will change to a certain point how fast you can push in or out the clutch since it will change the angle of the joints in your leg and foot. By changing these angles you do change how fast you are able to physically move and the effort necessary to make those movements because of the change of leverage.

I always liked mine a little closer to the floor since that is where I have the best feel and control. On some older cars you could also change the location of where the various parts of the linkage attached to to change the distance of movement required for fully engaged to fully disengaged. I feel this is perfectly acceptable as long as both conditions are satisfied.

 

Drove my firsts 6spd G sedan yesterday, (Juast wrecked a blk on blk auto sedan. And I'm buying it) It has been 15 years since i last drove a stick. It took me a few laps but after not stalling it or hitting the bentely continental GT in the lot we went out into traffic. It just takes a little patience to get used to it. the throws are very simialr to those on a Lambo's gated shifter so it a little tricky at first. Little worried about clutches but screw it I'd rather have the extra control.

 

Actually, this DIY mod is a lot better than the "washer' mod.

 

Some of you guys need lessons BADLY!

 

Never had to change the clutch engagement on a washer, had to change the clutch however.

 

screw the launch, drive ur car in neutral