umm u usually dont buy a turbo kit just for a BOV sound, u buy the components then get a HBOV based on your needs...and unless u have 8-15k ur not turboing anytime soon.

 

No, you can do it for less than $2,000 now. OP, buy this one and let us know how your "badazz blowff valve afterkit" sounds.

https://g35driver.com/forums/g-spot/...-ever-byt.html

 

Not really. Horsepower in the US was generally measured according to the SAE Gross standard up until 1971-1972 when it was replaced by the SAE Net standard. That held up until 2005 when the SAE Certified standard was introduced which is a bit more strict and thus supposedly more accurate than SAE Net measurements. This is the main reason we saw a drop in hp ratings from some manufacturers. The Japanese were being a tad liberal with their ratings and when the testing became a bit more strict, we saw that many engines were making a bit less power than advertised. For example, the VQ in the G dropped from 298 (rev-up) and 280 (non rev-up) to 293 and 275 respectively simply because of the adoption of the new method by Nissan. Similarly, the Acura TL's hp rating dropped from 270 hp to 258 hp. Toyota engines also took a dip in power ratings according to the new system. The 4.0L V6 in their trucks for example saw their hp rating drop from 245hp to 236hp. At the same time, some manufacturers saw an increase in their power ratings. The 4.4L supercharged V8 in the Cadillac XLR-V was bumped from 440hp to 469hp.

At the same time, it's unfair to say that Japanese cars tend to have exaggerated hp figures. For many years the opposite was true in their domestic market. Japan for many years had a cap on power output in their domestic market to prevent a hp war. That's why all the big Japanese sports cars of the 90s were rated at 276 hp/280 PS. That was simply a gentleman's agreement the manufacturers agreed they wouldn't break on paper. In actuality, cars like the R34 GT-R, Evo, STI, RX-7, 3000GT and 300ZX were all pushing closer to 300-320hp. So in those cases, the Japanese underrated their engines.

As for different ways of measuring horsepower, it generally has more to do with the region you live in than the manufacturer. Germany uses the DIN standard to calculate hp which often results in a higher output rating than SAE Net and SAE certified. Example, the Bugatti Veyron is rated at 1001 PS or 1001 hp DIN but that translates to "only" 987 hp SAE when rated according to our US standard. In Australia where they rate hp output in kilowatts, the Veyron's hp rating translates into 736 kW. So on paper when a Veyron is shipped from Europe to the US, it loses power on paper when in fact output remains the same.

It can all get very confusing if you're not familiar with the different systems or are unaware that different regions use different systems of measurement. Add to that to the fact that yes, some manufacturers do accidentally overrate (usually due to design flaw) or intentionally underrate (usually to keep insurance costs down or to keep a trick up their sleeve so the competition doesn't get the jump on them) power ratings, and it can get even more confusing.

 

^ good write up.

 

C'mon my T100 Super Thumper makes the mostest wickedest noises when I let off the loud pedal compared to the T3/T4 I had on before..of course it never ever builds boost barely fits under the hood and I am getting walked on by stock honda fits. I just wanted the super cool noise.

Excellent Write up matt..

Don't forget that different dyno's give out different results. here let me help the OP.
http://letmegooglethatforyou.com/?q=dynamometer+types
http://letmegooglethatforyou.com/?q=turbo+sizing
http://letmegooglethatforyou.com/?q=Blow+off+valve+

 

Ha, fake turbo...I wouldn't do that to my car

2 questions:

1. Does there need to be any additional engine work to install a Greddy Twin Turbo?
2. Anyone know what this BOV brand/model is? (Or something that sounds like it) It's what I would put on my G

 

Hmm...not sure if what you're saying here is applicable...power is going to be determined by the pressure in the combustion chamber - this opposing force is what generates the boost pressure agreed...but furthermore, a large diameter of the "straw" or small diameter isn't really going to make a difference...what matters is the pressure inside the straw...the diameter just changes the velocity of air, but the volume of air that passes through will remain the same at the same boost pressure (Bernouli's principle - a small straw will just have faster moving air than the big straw at the same pressure)

 

And finally, as a side point, looking at the dyno charts, it seems that the VQ35DE engine performs most efficiently under 5,000 RPMS, AND, the torque seems to be even up to that point (just going by the slope of the horsepower/RPM graph), so it seems that if you are trying to maximize gas mileage, you can actually rev up the engine a bit because the torque is even up to 5k RPM.

Of course, I'm not 100% sure that you can tell the torque from the horsepower/RPM graph but it seems to make sense since power = Forcexdistancextime, and Torque should be proportional to the force generated at the wheel to make the car move forward. But I don't have a torque graph on me for the VQ35DE engine so can't be sure.

 

Pretty sure power = force x distance / time.

BOV in video = Greddy Type S or cheap ebay knock off.

The use of Bernouli's principle is not really applicable here since you are dealing with pressure as well as flow Lets say stock you are running 1.5" IC piping and you upgrade your Intercooler for more efficiency and are now using not only 2" piping but also a larger IC core....wait lets leave the core out to simplify it more. By just upgrading your pipes to the larger diameter you now have a larger volume to fill which requires more air which requires more work from the turbo. The air may be moving at the same speed but it is now at a lower pressure due to the change in volume. This now requires the boost to be turned up and the turbo to spin harder to achieve and maintain the same boost pressure as before with the smaller pipe(straw). This happens all the time when people upgrade there IC. They don;t understand why there car is now slower. This is why it is important to research compressor maps. You want to be as efficient as possible without sacrificing power.

 

Right, that's what I was thinking - a bigger pipe will require more work by the turbo to maintain the same psi...I actually sat down with a piece of paper and did some math...thinking about all the variables it can become quite a complicated problem and a lot of information is needed...anyway thanks for the info...

Thinking about it, a big pipe or small pipe wouldn't matter if the engine was the one providing the backforce on the turbo, indeed, combustion occurs there so it doesn't matter...keeping the velocity high on the air would allow better mixing in the engine giving evidence for usage of a small pipe...unless the pipe itself was creating so much turbulence that the flow rate decreases - which could definitely happen...ugh such a complicated problem.

Oh yea, yes, I am a noob at tuning. But, I'm willing to deal with the math, and definitely ready to jump in head first.

 

just buy the HKS SSQV blow off valve and call it a day...please dont turbo your car before you do any research regarding turbos or superchargers.....I did alot of studying before I bought my supercharger..bought all of the correct components and everything.....at the end of the day..bad tune resulted in 3 Rods through the bottom of the block..no more engine or supercharger...Just be careful and do your research man. I had the HKS SSQV and loved it!

 

There is no backforce on a turbo...If you have backforce on a turbo you have very bad things happening. Now to achieve even more efficiency factor in a nice ported intake, some cnc'd and ported heads, a very free flowing exhaust. etc etc.....or just do the smart thing for yourself and take it to a proven shop to have it all spec'd and installed properly.

oh yeah HKS SSQV FTMFW or Turbonetics Godzilla since it is called godzilla afterall!!

I just called to Confirm and Yes Baby Jesus is still Sad about this thread.

 

no, get this...it seems to be in-line with the direction you are going

http://www.exhaustbov.com/



Our Exhaust BOV installs on your exhaust tip and makes it sound like a Turbo Blow Off Valve every time you accelerate and let go of the gas pedal.


Single Exhaust Kit: Only $25!!!

 

There's even a dual kit!!!



Dual Exhaust Kit: Only $50!!!

(Free Shipping To USA)

Questions? Email Me Personally At: ExhaustBOV@ gmail.com

 

Of course man, thanks for the heads up, doing my research here....I don't know too much about cars but always wished I did...this is my first jump into the tuning world...

The HKS SSQV is pretty sweet, I think that's just the sound I'm looking for

So Greddy Twin Turbo with the HKS SSQV...sounds fun