Sorry man that sucks, did they give you any assurances it was fine or was it the typical buyer beware transaction? You might not get much love from them, but I'd damn sure give it a try.

On another note, 2 months later I have the slightest of build up around the adjusting nut, so I'm sure it's just a matter of time before I need a new one.

 

I think that IS an accurate illustration when got underneath my car!!!

30 day warranty, it's been about 50...but we'll see what they do. I'll worry about that once I install the new rack and can throw the broken one back at them.

Both of my steering rack boots are covered in fluid. Every time I start my car I hear the power steering pump screeching. Do you hear any popping noises when turning? Does your car go straight on the highway without having to be constantly corrected (even after an alignment)?

When I turn the wheel with the front end jacked up I can hear fluid pressure in the steering rack. The steering wheel is really sloppy, like there is no connection between the steering wheel and the tie rods.

 

Just bought this steering rack:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/GENUINE-G35-...item1c15c71955

Price includes a $25 core charge, 3 year warranty, and free shipping. Other sellers offered a shorter warranty and a more difficult exchange process.

 

FYI, those inner tie rods are about $85 a piece at the dealer!

 

This is 200 after the core is given to the seller:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/G35-POWER-ST...item439d034536

I think it's the older part number and the one I purchased is a revised steering rack.

49001AM600
49001AM800 (looks to be part on 2005/06)

 

The only issue I have ever had with noise in the PS system was after I installed the SxExCx PS tank. It would whine ever so slightly, but that's gone. I'm pretty sure I need a PS cooler like the coupes have, the noise comes back ever so slightly when the outside temp is hot. But I'm watching the adjusting nut carefully, I just don't get how a nut and gasket can't be replaced. Just sounds ludicrous to me.

 

my car has 120k+ miles on it and it has that grease around that nut also since i bought it with 90k on it never lost any fluid but I always look at when i change my oil. i think i am good for now. I have no play in the steering system or any weird handling problems when i go autocrossing. i think you will be fine but just keep an eye it though

 

Well that's good to hear. I was just concerned because it showed up about 5000 miles ago, hadn't seen it before and I'm under my car quite a bit. Thanks for the heads up.

 

Finished installing the second steering rack last night. The car was pretty much on jack stands for two days because I overlooked finding the neutral position of the rack before connecting the steering joint to it. This is one of the most important steps when installing a new rack, especially since the eBay remanufactured racks do not have the plastic tab around the gear splines and the inner tie rod boots are already installed.

If you don't find the neutral positon, the steering wheel will not turn the same amount of turns left and right. Here is how to find the neutral position of the rack:

Must be done without the steering column joint connected to the steering rack gear. Measured on the passenger side of the steering rack.


Find the end of the steering rack housing (left side of "L" measurement). Dig into the boot with a flat blade screw driver to feel for it. Keep in mind the boot may be 1/8" thick, so dig in to make sure you know where to start.


Now find the right side of the "L" measurement. Dig in with a flat blade screw driver to feel for the tie rod, you'll notice the bump. Pull on tie rods until exact measurement is found. Wasn't easy to hold the iPhone, screw driver and ruler...


I did the previous steps with the fluid lines connected and only the bigger lower mounting bolt screwed in. Once I found the measurement, I remounted the steering rack and connected the steering joint. I didn't want to flush the lines again...

I think you can also find the neutral position of the steering rack while it's off the car by pulling the gear all the way to one side and all the way to the other side. Divide the number of turns by two and that is where to set the neutral position.

I now have ~1.33 steering wheel turns to the left and right. At least both sides seem pretty equal now, I had a little over 1.5 right, and 1.25 left two days ago. I'm an expert in removing the steering rack now. Hahaha

 

I think this steering rack is a dud, there are noises coming from it already when I swerve fast side to side at slow speeds. Going to get under it tomorrow and see what's going on!

 

Nooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo ooooooooooooooooooooooo

 

FALSE ALARM:

My SPC front upper camber arm adjusting nut was loose so the wheel was rocking side to side during turns.

This new steering rack is great!! LOL

 

Sorry to bring this thread back from the dead, but just wanted to see how your steering rack is holding up?

I recently did 4 wheel alignment and the tech could not get the car aligned perfectly. I did notice there is oil/grease leaking from the adjustment screw. Also when holding my hand in a fist around the tie rod i can twist in in place.

Not sure how badly my rack is messed up but i think it might be time for a new one.

How long did it take you to change it out?

 

My steering rack is holding up very well. No leaking and it's been a few months since the installation. I suspect it to last years.

He didn't tell you what was causing it to not be aligned properly? Meaning it's not at the correct numbers? Is the grease dry or wet? What part of the tie rod can you twist? Inner or outer, or the boot?

Installation should take you about 3 hours. It's really not a hard job, but when bolts are tough to remove it's a different story.

Are you noticing your steering isn't tight, notchy, and can you turn the steering wheel easily while the car is off?

 

when he was doing adjustments. the minute he would get it right and start tightening the bolt on the tie rod, the numbers would start changing. when he would do the other side the numbers from the rod he adjusted would start changing as well. the main thing i noticed as did the tech was that the tie rods were able to move when everything was tightened up. As i stated earlier, when you wrap your fist around the rod, you can twist it very easily (both inner and outer and boot as well ).
We had snow and rain here recently so it looks more like wet grease.... if that makes sense. Similar to what another guy posted on page 2 in his pic. My fluid level is normal and i dont see any tears in the boots or any leaks from any hoses.

The steering is fairly normal and i do not feel any change in how it handles.

I am going to try and take a pic of the leak and may be a few second video of how the tie rod twist.