They did but they all fell apart.....

 

Probly, man. Probly.. Haha

They're more like those $.99 store "snap-blox" tho.

 

So true. I was thinking about tackling the Plenum next, just need to get my hands on a torque wrench and the parts and pray I dont mess this up.

 

Don't need a torque wrench. The instructions have a nut-driver method that's really easy.

 

I used that nut driver. I've had my spacer on for 3 years no issues. I've built this entire car with a breaker bar socket set and wrenchs. FTW

 

Me too! My buddy has a huge set of air tools, and I can use them whenever, but sometimes its more trouble than its worth. Knowing how leverage works is valuable.

 

Saved thousands by doing everything myself. I'm not gonna say I've done everything perfect the first time but I've learned a **** ton by trial and error. And I can safely say I know my way around a g35 lol.

 

wen I saw u said this a couple months ago I've decided to do everything myself and save the money. Did all the body work and paint on my new bumper and will be installing new springs and camber kits pretty soon along with new wheels. Complete makeover all by me

 

When you do the springs, Make sure you make a mark to line up your shockmount on top and bottom or you'll be adjusting for awhile trying to get it in right.

 

having a hard time picturing what you mean

 

When you take off the shock/spring its 3 parts. The shock, the spring and the shock mount (top part with the 3 bolts that hold it to the car). When it goes back on, the three bolts up top obviously have to go back into the 3 holes the hold it on. The bottom of the shock also has to be in the same direction as when you took it off of the LCA. So, basically you have to put some whiteout on the top shock mount and some white out (that lines up) on the shock because they don't necessarily go back together the same exact way after replacing the springs.

Basically the easiest way for me to explain it is put a whiteout mark on the top shock mount and put a whiteout mark on the shock directly in line with the shock mount mark and make sure those lines are lined up when you put it all back together.

 

I thought you can just twist the shock? Or is that just with coilovers?

 

I've never worked with coilovers, so I'm not sure how those work. But, with springs it has to fit in the stock notch on the mount.

 

Is there lee way in the top 3 bolts giving the shock the ability to move? Still confused

 

OK, so here's how its gonna go:

You remove the LCA, then you'll remove the 3 bolts that hold the mount to the car. The shock/spring/mount will all come out as one piece. You are then going to want to make a mark that lines up the top shock mount and on the shock itself. The shock is connected to the mount by one nut in the center of the mount. You don't want to touch that nut until the spring is compressed with a spring compressor.

OK, so you compress the spring, remove mounting plate nut, remove the mounting plate, and then take the spring off. You will then compress the new spring, slip it over the shock and put your mounting plate back on. Now, the mounting plate has to be positioned in the same position that it was in before you took it off, hence the line-up marks. Once its all put back together you remove the spring compressor and its ready for reinstallation.

It needs to be mounted in the same direction because the bottom of the shock has a fork. It can only go on one way. If you don't line up the top mount correctly, you can't move it once you remove the spring compressor from your new spring, which means the 3 holes won't line up with the 3 holes under your hood.

This sucks because you will then have to recompress the spring, loosen the mounting plate turn it, decompress and try again. Over and over and over until you get it lined up right. Just trust me and make a mark on the shock and shock mount and make sure they line up upon reassembly.