What did you do to the G today?
#7667
I installed a Torque Solutions poly trans mount a few years back. Made it sound more deeper in the cabin. Vibration was notably more initially, but now seems to be less, or I may just have gotten used to it... They do say the quiet down after they "break in".
#7668
Premier Member
iTrader: (11)
I think you're just used to it, I know I'm used to it now. So much so that when I got an alignment recently the tech told me he thought my exhaust was rubbing but couldn't find where. When I told him it has a poly mount he simply had an "ah ha" moment and said, "okay, that makes sense now, it was driving me crazy to find it for you." lol
#7670
#7671
Premier Member
iTrader: (11)
There's a few videos on youtube of the noise, most went back to stock, lol. I was gonna put the stock one back on, but we were rushing to clear the lift bay on base and I threw it in the scrap heap.
#7672
I have the same shaft on back order.
No rattle or obvious vibrations, just enhanced noise. And I only have a Z1 poly trans mount.
There's a few videos on youtube of the noise, most went back to stock, lol. I was gonna put the stock one back on, but we were rushing to clear the lift bay on base and I threw it in the scrap heap.
There's a few videos on youtube of the noise, most went back to stock, lol. I was gonna put the stock one back on, but we were rushing to clear the lift bay on base and I threw it in the scrap heap.
#7674
#7676
Attempted to install my brembos but my wife had me doing housework (gutters and lawn) but I did get a chance to replace the knock sensor harness that's been showing on my scanner as a ghost code. Difficult? No. Time consuming? Yes.
I tried the shortcut (hole in the timing cover) but all that did was rip the wire out of the sensor so the long way was needed. FYI for anyone that attempts this, the injectors do not need to be removed. Just loosen the fuel rails and lift it up slightly to access the bolts needed to life to the intake runners (I think that's what they are called). Car runs great now.
I tried the shortcut (hole in the timing cover) but all that did was rip the wire out of the sensor so the long way was needed. FYI for anyone that attempts this, the injectors do not need to be removed. Just loosen the fuel rails and lift it up slightly to access the bolts needed to life to the intake runners (I think that's what they are called). Car runs great now.
Nice looking Brembo's BTW!
Glad to hear about everything working out in regards to the knock sensor.
Post pics once installed.
#7678
Might be up for sale somewhat cheap actually... or go up on the wall with all my other high dollar misfortunes.
Here is the story if interested:
Years ago, a guy here had it up for sale for a while. I didn't see the FS thread, but I did come across his eBay listing for it.
In the item details, he listed he had sent the driveshaft shop his steel 2-piece to have this custom shaft made, spending a little over a grand on it.
He received and installed it. It had a vibration @ 120+. So, he sent it back the DSS where he said they re-balanced it and sent it back.
Well, according to his listing, he received it, but never installed it again and ended up selling the car.
I won the auction obviously and received the DS.
Someone messaged me with a link to one of his threads stating he in fact DID re-install it and still had the issue.
It was a lost cause, so under the bed it remained until yesterday.
I contacted a driveline shop here in the city and they informed me "you can't spin a one piece aluminum as fast as you can a 2-piece or one piece steel, that's why you have a high speed vibration."
I then called the DSS and spoke to Tad and he told me that was not true at all, and I told him what you just read.
He wanted me to send pics of the shaft to make sure it was in fact theirs and not someone else's with a DSS sticker slapped on.
Well, it is their shaft, just an older one.
Now, do I spend the $ to ship this giant thing back to them to have them take a look? Pay for any balancing or repairs, then return shipping back?
Tad mention it might be cheaper than a new shaft to re-tube it, if that's what it needs, but how much cheaper?..
Or drop $450 - 500 on a new shaft with a warranty...
Here is the story if interested:
Years ago, a guy here had it up for sale for a while. I didn't see the FS thread, but I did come across his eBay listing for it.
In the item details, he listed he had sent the driveshaft shop his steel 2-piece to have this custom shaft made, spending a little over a grand on it.
He received and installed it. It had a vibration @ 120+. So, he sent it back the DSS where he said they re-balanced it and sent it back.
Well, according to his listing, he received it, but never installed it again and ended up selling the car.
I won the auction obviously and received the DS.
Someone messaged me with a link to one of his threads stating he in fact DID re-install it and still had the issue.
It was a lost cause, so under the bed it remained until yesterday.
I contacted a driveline shop here in the city and they informed me "you can't spin a one piece aluminum as fast as you can a 2-piece or one piece steel, that's why you have a high speed vibration."
I then called the DSS and spoke to Tad and he told me that was not true at all, and I told him what you just read.
He wanted me to send pics of the shaft to make sure it was in fact theirs and not someone else's with a DSS sticker slapped on.
Well, it is their shaft, just an older one.
Now, do I spend the $ to ship this giant thing back to them to have them take a look? Pay for any balancing or repairs, then return shipping back?
Tad mention it might be cheaper than a new shaft to re-tube it, if that's what it needs, but how much cheaper?..
Or drop $450 - 500 on a new shaft with a warranty...
#7679