Put a bottle of BG EPR (Engine performance restorer) through the G before an oil change. When I told the dealer that it was burning more oil than typical he suggested that I try the EPR before changing oil weight. He said sometime ps build up on the rings can let oil seep through. Who knows, but worth a shot. Got the can from Amazon for like 13$ and ran it in the oil at 1200 rpm for 15 minutes right before the oil change.

Also got the brake fluid changed. Im wondering if I need to replace my brake lines because even after the fluid change the pedal doesn’t feel as firm as I remembered it feeling after a fluid change (either that or I’m just biased bc both my ISF and FX50S have awesome, super firm brake pedals. I remember the Gs Brembos being more firm, but I might also just be imagining things...

Will report back on the EPR after 1000 miles to see if I’m still using our quart or if it got any better (or worse

Also ordered a slave and master for the clutch - pedal started not coming all the way back up after longer, spirited drives. At 162k, I’m sure either, or both, could use replacing.

 

^
Could always do the brake master cylinder brace from z1. Heard nothing but good things about it.

 

I couldnt find the right thread to post this to. But for anyone who has issues with their corner lights not fitting too well, this is how to get em to sit flush. Just make sure your screw isnt too long or it will hit the inside of your lens and crack it.

 

Nice idea. You can shorten the screw, after the hole has been "threaded", so it can't contact the lens. Also, add a small dab of gasket maker to the threads, just to be sure there is no water leakage.

Again, nice idea.

 

The rear driver side tire went flat on the road. I took out the standard Scissor Jack and started to jack up that tire. About half way us the car rolled backwards twisting the jack. Yes it was in park and the parking break was on! How in the heck can the car move backwards? A passerby offered his help. He also tried to jack up the car with my scissor jack and the same thing happened again. Fortunately, he had a 6 Ton Bottle Jack Hydraulic Portable and was able to change my tire.


Recommendations..There is no way a woman could ever change a tire with the jack and lug wrench that comes with the car. Hell, I couldn't ever do it! Also, the lug wrench is too short for most people to use, I did not have enough strength to loosen the lug nuts! If you don't have AAA and you get a flat, you are in trouble. I suggest purchasing a 6 Ton Bottle Jack Hydraulic Portable which is available from Ebay for $20. And get a pipe that fits over the lug wrench to extend it for more tongue.

 

Your parking brake should be strong enough to lock the rear wheels, each side independently. If its not doing that then its either out of adjustment or the brake shoes are worn.

 

Thanks for your comment. Brake shoes are fine. The car should not have moved, but it did.
William

 

Update. Apparently, Infiniti was aware of the problem of the car moving backwards even when in park and the parking brake being set. They recommend putting blocks in front and behind of the tire during replacement. What? Who the hell carries these blocks around with them? Ridiculous.

From the owners manual
"Blocking wheels Place suitable blocks at both the front and back of the wheel diagonally opposite the flat tire to prevent the vehicle from rolling when it is jacked up.
WARNING
Be sure to block the wheel as the vehicle may move and could cause personal injury."

What? Who the hell carries these blocks around with them? Ridiculous.

 

Nissan says this to cover their *** for the simple people

 

Just grab some rocks or debris, or a car seat, or ANYTHING to chock the tire on the opposite side. Most people have plenty of crap floating around. If not then make sure you're on a very flat surface and always break the initial torque off the lugnuts with the vehicle on the ground.

The G35 has such a rigid chassis that the OEM jack would be perfectly fine without chocked tires unless you were trying to use the jack 90 degrees off or something.

 

Started the G for the first time since I left for school at the end of June. Started up fine, but immediately smoke started pouring off the passenger side manifolds as the oil accumulated from my valve cover leak over the two months of sitting burned off. While looking at that I noticed I had coolant bubbles coming off of my OE lower heater hose from a tear near the worm clamp, along with a nice hissing noise.... Time for some Z1 silicone hoses.

Any "common failure" hoses I should absolutely replace while I'm doing this regardless of how they feel? I'm also doing the radiator, Tstat, and silicone upper, lower, and bypass hoses.

Also going to do my valve covers. I'm going to reuse my originals and just put in a Fel-Pro gasket and RTV the spark plug seals as those are currently only seeping. Anything else that always goes bad I should replace while the intake plenum and valve covers are off? Intake manifold gaskets? Knock sensor?

This will actually be my first plenum-off job (I know, I know....) on any car, so going to be taking it slow and trying not to break anything although it seems pretty simple.

Haven't given the ole' VQ any love besides spark plugs, sensors, catch can, and oil changes during my ownership... time to get serious.

 

Can't think of any.

Just ticked 160k miles.

 

Consider the pcv silicone kit while you're at it. There's a good chance one of them will crack. Broke the crankcase vent hose and pcv to passenger valve cover hose when doing mine. Didn't even realize until putting everything back together and had a loud vaccum leak

 

Meet up with my buddy and its new toy.... SKYLINE did change a lot from sure
He just picked up that gtst today after his HR sedan broke

 

He must have a serious toothache because, that R32 is sweeet.