Nothing wrong with the plugs. I reached out to R/T and confirmed all is because the drive cycle wasn't able to fully complete. Even another tuner on the thread confirmed. Thus, an e-tune is on the way so I can start her up and flush out some oils, perform a compression test, etc. before a dyno tune in November. Whereas, as far as the pics goes let me search and see if I transferred my iPhone storage to my PC. Swore I thought I did before performing a iOS downgrade. iPhone iOS 13 sucks. Just an FYI don't upgrade and don't upgrade to their latest 14 version either. Also, sorry for the late reply work is getting kind of hectic with covid-19 and cybersecurity. 😪

 

Rebuilt one of the Brembos with new Nissan OEM seals. Turned out it didn't really need to be rebuilt, but was a good learning experience.

Stoptech SS lines, PowerStop Track Day pads installed

 

How many miles were on it? I had been thinking about rebuilding mine, but maybe they don't need it. I assume you were able to rebuild without splitting the two halves (which you're not supposed to do)?

They look good. I noticed another chip in mine when I was changing the oil on Sunday. I really wish that paint was made available.

 

Did my spark plugs and realized I need to do valve cover gaskets. So guess that is next

 

160k. They did NOT need a rebuild, I think I just had dirty slide pins causing the uneven wear... My vibration and pull to the right under hard braking is still there on my way to work this morning although the pads bite well. Throwing a pair of new rotors at it next, then I'm all out of ideas.... Probably will move onto messing with the rear brakes.

 

Today I picked up my 3d printed core for the carbon fiber sway bar experiment. I made the core only 18mm in diameter, so that means I have as much as 8.5mm of potential carbon fiber tube wall thickness before I reach the same diameter as the hotchkiss bar (35mm). I will keep stacking layers of carbon sleeve (plus resin via infusion) until I reach a little more than the torsional stiffness of the hotchkiss bar (will rig something up to test the stiffness).

This will either end in great success or epic failure. Wish me luck!






Stock hotchkiss front diameter for reference:

 

That sounds like something suspension related to me. Check your tie rod ends and other suspension for play/wear.

 

My front suspension is super tight, the oldest parts have 50k miles and all Whiteline and energy poly bushings. Replacing the rotors fixed the braking vibration and pull, but there was still vibration through the steering wheel at 90+.

Took the wheel off, I noticed the brakes would drag very slightly at one part of the rotor's rotation, even with the new rotor. Not even noticeable with the rotating mass of the wheel on the car. So I threw a new wheel bearing and hub at it and took it for a spin. NO MORE FRONT END VIBRATION!!! So happy I can finally comfortably cruise at speeds of 90+ without having a death grip on a vibrating wheel with the mirror shaking...

The old wheel bearing was tight and felt like the new one when rotated by hand, but once I had it out, I could tell the hub was warped very slightly; I could rock it back and forth resting the wheel studs on the concrete floor. Someone must have gone crazy with an air impact years and years ago before I bought the car.

 

Logged in to see what @Row2k was up to, and am not disappointed.

 

thanks! I'll keep providing updates. Im on a work trip right now (beer virus be damned), but as soon as I get back in about 2 weeks all the raw materials will arrive and I will hit the ground running on attempting this carbon sway bar.

 

Did a trackcross event at Caanan motorsports park in NH this weekend with a few buddies. Had fun, despite severely retarded timing (10 degrees at WOT) due to a knock sensor low voltage code that I've apparently had for 3 months without it throwing a check engine light. Ran a few seconds faster than the ST, but the RX8 had me beat pretty much every run due to both better driving and stickier tires.



The next day the knock sensor harness arrived. Pulled the old one out and installed the new one without removing anything using the tools shown below. Oh, and I also threw the other 1aAuto front wheel bearing and hub on it as my (last) original 160k mile bearing started making noise after this event.



And we're back to normal timing advance at WOT (~20-23 degrees). Big butt dyno improvement, wish it had come one day earlier



Next problem that didn't manifest itself with retarded timing: Intermittently at low rpms and higher loads (say 5th or 6th gear going 40 mph trying to accelerate) combustion sounds uneven and power seems rougher... Pulls fine if I downshift. Not misfiring, fuel trims are right around zero... The saga continues. My only thoughts at this point are a bad O2 sensor since everything looks OK but not going to throw parts at it since its just a "feeling" at this point

 

decided to install these. Of course it rains on my days off so I been working little by little after work. Passenger side is in. And tomorrow I will put the driver side in. After that the y pipe, Then I have valve cover gaskets to do 👍🏿

 

Tried out my spare tire today, still fits... I was down to the wear bars anyway so I ordered up some all seasons for the winter. I think this will be the first time I've ever put all-season tires on the G since I usually just park it until Feb/March. Looks like I'll be working in town this year though so it will see some winter action until there's snow on the ground.

I have to admit the OEM emergency jack for this car is REALLY good compared to most.

 

Ohhh and something else, last time I filled up my tank I got the fuel level low input code, but I cleared the code the next week and it went away. It was dark outside at the gas pump so I didn't really catch the issue until YESTERDAY when I filled up again.

I think someone tried to siphon my tank, my locking tab on the gas flap is broken and the little metal flap inside the gas nozzle hole is MISSING! There's no damage to the gas flap door, no scratches on the paint, so I'm guessing they used something plastic to pry it open which broke off the latching mechanism on the chassis side. I assume the tube they stuck down the gas hole pushed the gas float around and caused it to be stuck, then when they pulled the hose out it broke off the metal flappy thing that leads down into the tank.

 

Hey everyone on g35driver, i have traded my Hawaiian island life for a life at SC..... I am planning to ship the G to SC sometime in Dec, and in the meantime, driving a limited edition beater xB since i need all the space to help me moving into my new place...

I miss my G alot, mainly the exhaust and the stereo setup alot but cant wait to reunited and hit some track day and mountain road in the south