Fog light bulbs - Crystal Vision (Phillips)
#16
Also when you're looking out for them make sure they have some form of "anti-glare" or reflector on the bulb itself to direct the light in the same manner a halogen bulb does. That'll ensure it produces a proper beam pattern that won't cause glare to oncoming drivers on the road.
#17
I see plenty of 9006 LED 'lights' with heat sinks and cooling fans and also see some like these. Anyone have that kind ? What's the difference ?
I also see some of these LED assemblies reference the LED manufacturer (Cree, COB, etc) and some reference the "chips" manufacturer (Philips, etc). Which are the ideal components to look for as far as reliability ?
I also see some of these LED assemblies reference the LED manufacturer (Cree, COB, etc) and some reference the "chips" manufacturer (Philips, etc). Which are the ideal components to look for as far as reliability ?
#19
I drove ttrank's car solo
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From: By the sea, Tx
G35 sedan w/ too much money in mods
My LEDs put out a lot more usable light, better distance and penetration than my stupid halogen bulbs that were in the projectors, both stock and aftermarket. Not to mention the cutoff is hella cleaner and the light dispersion is way better. The brilliant white color is just a bonus.
Hall the kit I bought is this one, for the GTO they were truly plug and play. Came with ballasts and the bulbs have fans to cool them. They produce 360* light and fit in my headlight housings with the dust caps on. 2 Year warranty and almost 500 reviews with a 4.3 out of 5 rating between them. I've had them for 3 months with absolutely no issues, they didn't cause any electrical issues such as hyperblinking either. As you can see they have available replacements for a number of headlight bulbs. Not sure if they offer kits to replace D2R or D2S bulbs but I haven't looked.
https://www.amazon.com/oEdRo-H11-Hea...ght+bulb&psc=1
Hall the kit I bought is this one, for the GTO they were truly plug and play. Came with ballasts and the bulbs have fans to cool them. They produce 360* light and fit in my headlight housings with the dust caps on. 2 Year warranty and almost 500 reviews with a 4.3 out of 5 rating between them. I've had them for 3 months with absolutely no issues, they didn't cause any electrical issues such as hyperblinking either. As you can see they have available replacements for a number of headlight bulbs. Not sure if they offer kits to replace D2R or D2S bulbs but I haven't looked.
https://www.amazon.com/oEdRo-H11-Hea...ght+bulb&psc=1
As I said in my post above, the complete LED kit I used is hands down far better than the halogen bulbs the GTO came with (H11). Of course we have intense discussions about the HID vs. LED replacements on ls1gto but a lot of goat owners are running the LED's and loving them as do I. One of the big points in agreement we discuss is finding a LED kit that includes bulbs designed with 360* light output and "having the headlight filament like the original halogen bulb making the reflection angle the same as the original designed." Again, a quick search on Amazon only shows one company that makes kits like mine for the D2R/D2S so obviously selection is limited which from my naïve point of view means they're not enormously popular.
#20
The point is LED light is single point source light where Halogen is a wire burning and HID is xenon gas arcing. They all have different optics that trying to make it work in a certain housing just can't work.
Buying a projector made for that type of light is the ideal way to get output you want with the tech you desire.
Reality is HID in a projector still trumps LED in hotspot output, width, and low glare... by a long way. If LED was a worthy upgrade without blinding everyone and having too much foreground (what everyone thinks Is good output) I would do it for sure, but unfortunately it's just not there.
Buying a projector made for that type of light is the ideal way to get output you want with the tech you desire.
Reality is HID in a projector still trumps LED in hotspot output, width, and low glare... by a long way. If LED was a worthy upgrade without blinding everyone and having too much foreground (what everyone thinks Is good output) I would do it for sure, but unfortunately it's just not there.
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Scorpi0 (05-30-2018)
#21
What distance should fog lights be 'judged' at for usefulness ? I'll take pictures showing the difference with them on vs off. With other cars, you could definitely see a change when they're turned on or off. With this car, at least the '08 models, they seem to be more for looks than function.
#26
I see plenty of 9006 LED 'lights' with heat sinks and cooling fans and also see some like these. Anyone have that kind ? What's the difference ?
I also see some of these LED assemblies reference the LED manufacturer (Cree, COB, etc) and some reference the "chips" manufacturer (Philips, etc). Which are the ideal components to look for as far as reliability ?
I also see some of these LED assemblies reference the LED manufacturer (Cree, COB, etc) and some reference the "chips" manufacturer (Philips, etc). Which are the ideal components to look for as far as reliability ?
The LED chip manufactures like CREE, Philips, Lumileds etc are good brands of chips. COB is chip on board - a type of LED chip. COB is normally cheaper and more common on low quality lights. Because COB is an array of LEDs placed on a board it's very hard to distinguish between each actual LED. This means if 20% or so start to die out or lose colour, on the surface most consumers won't be able to tell the difference in output. Because of this, manufacturers can get away with using low quality components. Compared with a 1-3 single LED chips, if one goes out it would be a very obvious failure so the quality of parts and production must be kept high. Also, COB are quite fragile and most aftermarket COB lights get damaged by the jolting vibrations from day to day driving.
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