A little help- interior part identification/fixing
Thread Starter
|
Registered User
Joined: Oct 2021
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
its old, its breaking, but it runs.
A little help- interior part identification/fixing
Hi! I’m new here. I’ve visited this forum a lot and finally decided to join. Thank you to everyone on here- I’ve read a lot of great information over the years!!
I’ve got a 2005 coupe. Had it for a long time now. And it seems like everything is breaking! I’m wondering if anyone has had these issues, and has any advice on fixes?
- Backseat; there are 2 panels near where your arm would sit on each side of the car that are covered in a material that is like a thick, textured sticker. Both sides are peeling off. I don’t know what they’re called, but what glue can I use on it to keep it from peeling off? They seem to unstick in the heat. I don’t know what the materials are so I’m not sure what glue is best.
- Under the driver seat; there is a panel that covers the front and wraps around the side of the seat. It covers underneath the seat. Mine is completely loose. What is this called? I can’t seem to find a replacement for it because I have no clue what it’s called. It covers all the wires and such under there. I’ve tried to push it back on but I think whatever parts of it that were holding it in place broke.
- On the drivers side above the window; there is a plastic part, I think it’s used for cards. Mine kept falling and was hanging by a string. I couldn’t get it to stay up so I cut the string.. what is this part called? I think it has a little latch that should click in place but I’m assuming that’s broken. Assuming I could just buy a new one and pop it in place?
- Odometer; I have lights on the dash, all meters and such, except the little box where my odometer is displayed. It is incredibly dim, even with the brightest setting. I can only see it in the dark. Is this one of those fixes that are a ton of work/ money? Wondering if this one is worth getting someone to look at.
- Gas meter, apparently for some reason the gas meter only works using the top half? Like when it’s empty its on the halfway mark. What in the world is going on here. Is this something that’s expensive to fix?
This isn’t even half of it… I have a million electrical components that seem to not work but these listed above are bothering me most at the moment. Any help would be appreciated! I try to learn as much as possible before making inquiries at places.
I’ve got a 2005 coupe. Had it for a long time now. And it seems like everything is breaking! I’m wondering if anyone has had these issues, and has any advice on fixes?
- Backseat; there are 2 panels near where your arm would sit on each side of the car that are covered in a material that is like a thick, textured sticker. Both sides are peeling off. I don’t know what they’re called, but what glue can I use on it to keep it from peeling off? They seem to unstick in the heat. I don’t know what the materials are so I’m not sure what glue is best.
- Under the driver seat; there is a panel that covers the front and wraps around the side of the seat. It covers underneath the seat. Mine is completely loose. What is this called? I can’t seem to find a replacement for it because I have no clue what it’s called. It covers all the wires and such under there. I’ve tried to push it back on but I think whatever parts of it that were holding it in place broke.
- On the drivers side above the window; there is a plastic part, I think it’s used for cards. Mine kept falling and was hanging by a string. I couldn’t get it to stay up so I cut the string.. what is this part called? I think it has a little latch that should click in place but I’m assuming that’s broken. Assuming I could just buy a new one and pop it in place?
- Odometer; I have lights on the dash, all meters and such, except the little box where my odometer is displayed. It is incredibly dim, even with the brightest setting. I can only see it in the dark. Is this one of those fixes that are a ton of work/ money? Wondering if this one is worth getting someone to look at.
- Gas meter, apparently for some reason the gas meter only works using the top half? Like when it’s empty its on the halfway mark. What in the world is going on here. Is this something that’s expensive to fix?
This isn’t even half of it… I have a million electrical components that seem to not work but these listed above are bothering me most at the moment. Any help would be appreciated! I try to learn as much as possible before making inquiries at places.
BANNED!!!
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 14,837
Likes: 2,497
From: Washington State
Coupe 6MT Premium RAS
Back seat panel look up spray adhesive, basically any type of glue, even superglue will work to get peeling panels to stick back down.
Under driver seat, I would wrap it in electrical tape to hold it in place.
Driver side window card holder, again, superglue.
Odometer AND gas gauge, likely it's your instrument cluster failing since you have multiple systems on it going out. The gas gauge can be troubleshooted though, section DI - Driver Information in the FSM. The harness (and fuel pump) is under the rear seat, in the center of each seat right where the cushion meets the floor carpet is a small plastic ring you pull forward towards the front of the car, pull both those tabs and lift the seat up. Then it unhooks from the rear of the cushion just by lifting forward it's SUPER easy to get the back seat cushion off, takes about 5 seconds.
With the seat cushion up on the right side (passenger for US cars) there's a flange you remove by giving the odd plastic screw a 1/8 turn then lift up the metal flange. When that's out of the way you have access to the wiring harness, unplug it and read resistance across pins 2 and 5, it scales 3-80 ohms depending on how much of a tank of fuel you have (3 is full tank 80 is empty tank).
Wait until you KNOW you're less than a half tank, read the resistance and make sure it's greater than 40 ohms, if it reads something like 60 ohms (1/4 tank) but your gas gauge on the dash still shows the wrong fuel level then the problem is the dash. If the sending unit is only showing 40 ohms and not going higher even though you know you have less gas (verify by seeing how many gallons it takes to fill the 20 gallon tank) then the problem is in either the primary or secondary fuel level sending unit. The secondary is behind the cover on the left (driver) side seat under the rear seat.
If the sending units are sending the wrong info you can try to clean the contacts on it, when you have the sending unit removed you will see a little printed circuit board with these little metal contact lines where the level contact sweeps across them. Gently use a #2 pencil and rub the lead of the pencil on the contact stripes/lines to clean corrosion from them. Wipe it off with a rag when done. Strongly recommend waiting until you're at about 1/4 tank of gas to do this.
Under driver seat, I would wrap it in electrical tape to hold it in place.
Driver side window card holder, again, superglue.
Odometer AND gas gauge, likely it's your instrument cluster failing since you have multiple systems on it going out. The gas gauge can be troubleshooted though, section DI - Driver Information in the FSM. The harness (and fuel pump) is under the rear seat, in the center of each seat right where the cushion meets the floor carpet is a small plastic ring you pull forward towards the front of the car, pull both those tabs and lift the seat up. Then it unhooks from the rear of the cushion just by lifting forward it's SUPER easy to get the back seat cushion off, takes about 5 seconds.
With the seat cushion up on the right side (passenger for US cars) there's a flange you remove by giving the odd plastic screw a 1/8 turn then lift up the metal flange. When that's out of the way you have access to the wiring harness, unplug it and read resistance across pins 2 and 5, it scales 3-80 ohms depending on how much of a tank of fuel you have (3 is full tank 80 is empty tank).
Wait until you KNOW you're less than a half tank, read the resistance and make sure it's greater than 40 ohms, if it reads something like 60 ohms (1/4 tank) but your gas gauge on the dash still shows the wrong fuel level then the problem is the dash. If the sending unit is only showing 40 ohms and not going higher even though you know you have less gas (verify by seeing how many gallons it takes to fill the 20 gallon tank) then the problem is in either the primary or secondary fuel level sending unit. The secondary is behind the cover on the left (driver) side seat under the rear seat.
If the sending units are sending the wrong info you can try to clean the contacts on it, when you have the sending unit removed you will see a little printed circuit board with these little metal contact lines where the level contact sweeps across them. Gently use a #2 pencil and rub the lead of the pencil on the contact stripes/lines to clean corrosion from them. Wipe it off with a rag when done. Strongly recommend waiting until you're at about 1/4 tank of gas to do this.
Thread Starter
|
Registered User
Joined: Oct 2021
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
its old, its breaking, but it runs.
Back seat panel look up spray adhesive, basically any type of glue, even superglue will work to get peeling panels to stick back down.
Under driver seat, I would wrap it in electrical tape to hold it in place.
Driver side window card holder, again, superglue.
Odometer AND gas gauge, likely it's your instrument cluster failing since you have multiple systems on it going out. The gas gauge can be troubleshooted though, section DI - Driver Information in the FSM. The harness (and fuel pump) is under the rear seat, in the center of each seat right where the cushion meets the floor carpet is a small plastic ring you pull forward towards the front of the car, pull both those tabs and lift the seat up. Then it unhooks from the rear of the cushion just by lifting forward it's SUPER easy to get the back seat cushion off, takes about 5 seconds.
With the seat cushion up on the right side (passenger for US cars) there's a flange you remove by giving the odd plastic screw a 1/8 turn then lift up the metal flange. When that's out of the way you have access to the wiring harness, unplug it and read resistance across pins 2 and 5, it scales 3-80 ohms depending on how much of a tank of fuel you have (3 is full tank 80 is empty tank).
Wait until you KNOW you're less than a half tank, read the resistance and make sure it's greater than 40 ohms, if it reads something like 60 ohms (1/4 tank) but your gas gauge on the dash still shows the wrong fuel level then the problem is the dash. If the sending unit is only showing 40 ohms and not going higher even though you know you have less gas (verify by seeing how many gallons it takes to fill the 20 gallon tank) then the problem is in either the primary or secondary fuel level sending unit. The secondary is behind the cover on the left (driver) side seat under the rear seat.
If the sending units are sending the wrong info you can try to clean the contacts on it, when you have the sending unit removed you will see a little printed circuit board with these little metal contact lines where the level contact sweeps across them. Gently use a #2 pencil and rub the lead of the pencil on the contact stripes/lines to clean corrosion from them. Wipe it off with a rag when done. Strongly recommend waiting until you're at about 1/4 tank of gas to do this.
Under driver seat, I would wrap it in electrical tape to hold it in place.
Driver side window card holder, again, superglue.
Odometer AND gas gauge, likely it's your instrument cluster failing since you have multiple systems on it going out. The gas gauge can be troubleshooted though, section DI - Driver Information in the FSM. The harness (and fuel pump) is under the rear seat, in the center of each seat right where the cushion meets the floor carpet is a small plastic ring you pull forward towards the front of the car, pull both those tabs and lift the seat up. Then it unhooks from the rear of the cushion just by lifting forward it's SUPER easy to get the back seat cushion off, takes about 5 seconds.
With the seat cushion up on the right side (passenger for US cars) there's a flange you remove by giving the odd plastic screw a 1/8 turn then lift up the metal flange. When that's out of the way you have access to the wiring harness, unplug it and read resistance across pins 2 and 5, it scales 3-80 ohms depending on how much of a tank of fuel you have (3 is full tank 80 is empty tank).
Wait until you KNOW you're less than a half tank, read the resistance and make sure it's greater than 40 ohms, if it reads something like 60 ohms (1/4 tank) but your gas gauge on the dash still shows the wrong fuel level then the problem is the dash. If the sending unit is only showing 40 ohms and not going higher even though you know you have less gas (verify by seeing how many gallons it takes to fill the 20 gallon tank) then the problem is in either the primary or secondary fuel level sending unit. The secondary is behind the cover on the left (driver) side seat under the rear seat.
If the sending units are sending the wrong info you can try to clean the contacts on it, when you have the sending unit removed you will see a little printed circuit board with these little metal contact lines where the level contact sweeps across them. Gently use a #2 pencil and rub the lead of the pencil on the contact stripes/lines to clean corrosion from them. Wipe it off with a rag when done. Strongly recommend waiting until you're at about 1/4 tank of gas to do this.
Thank you so much!! Absolutely appreciate it!
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
