Okay hi everyone I’m new to the forums, I need some opinions please. So about 8 months ago my g35 overheated QUICK. I’m always glancing down at the temp gauge so it had to be within a few minutes. The gauge was all the way at the H and the car made a weird noise maybe clicking or tapping or something by the time I noticed it. The SES light was on, and the oil light was on also ( could have been more I can’t remember but I know those two for sure ). The car basically gave out on me and so I put my hazards on and it felt like my power steering gave out, I could barley pull over to the side of the road, simultaneously my car started smoking white. It probably ran total a minute and a half or so. My grandpa is a tow truck driver and mechanic of 35 years who claims that the engine is done for and can’t be rebuilt. Well yesterday I took a look at it and it would attempt to start when we jumped it, but it wouldn’t actually start even with starter fluid. There was some light smoke coming out of the exhaust pipes with leads me to believe maybe there’s still light compression. I also discovered the passenger side heater hose was broken into two. Now I’m not sure what all went wrong when it overheated on me, but the hose being broken could’ve lead to the white smoke. Maybe it blew a head gasket and the hose broke after ? I really don’t know. But there is the ses light, break light, AWD, battery, oil light, and exclamation light lit up on the dash. When hooked up to a scanner it said the engine had passed, no fault, transmission had one fault, and BCM had one fault. It threw 4 codes, B2109, B2562, and DTC P0725. There is no telling like I said whether the engine is severely damaged or not. But I would like to think if so it wouldn’t have turned over. Please I know this is a lot of information but if anyone could help me I would appreciate it. Also, if you do mechanic work and are willing to take a look this is my number 979-253-2866

 

Will the engine turn over when you turn it to start? Make sure it has a fully charged battery.

If the engine won't turn over try turning it manually. Pull all the spark plugs, put a socket on the crank pulley bolt, use a breaker bar and turn the engine over by hand. If it won't even turn over by hand then it's locked up.

As for not being rebuildable, there's no way to tell without actually disassembling it. Overheating alone isn't enough to kill a motor but it will require machine work to make the block and heads flat again since they typically warp (which is what causes the gap in the head gasket).

Sounds like your primary reason for failure was a ruptured heater core hose. It probably wasn't the hose but the plastic BLEEDER that couples two hoses together.

The white smoke was almost definitely just coolant pouring onto the headers and immediately evaporating.

It's typically MUCH cheaper to just source a low mile replacement engine rather than rebuilding the one you have. Your car came equipped with a VQ35HR engine.

I strongly recommend getting a "compression test" and "leakdown test" done on the engine if it will turn over while starting.

You can run the engine without any coolant for a few seconds (wouldn't go more than 30) if it does start up when you crank the engine so no worries about damaging anything from not having coolant when starting.

 

As for all the codes, ignore all that for now, probably just a bunch of stuff related to overheating and when the engine shut down while driving (that's why your power steering got really stiff, the engine shut off and you didn't have power steering).

Also, pull your dipstick and see if you have any oil. All that clicking and tapping might be because you lost oil and seized up the engine, if it won't crank, and can't turn it with a breaker bar on the crank pulley socket then it's seized up. Usually still rebuildable but rarely worth it when you can get another used engine for 1/4 the price.

 

This is that valve mine broke

 

Yep that's the bleeder valve, that top cap unscrews to let air out when filling the coolant system.

I STRONGLY recommend replacing it with the metal one that Z1 Motorsports sells, it's not a matter of IF those things break, they will definitely break at some point.