Have you tried the following reset procedures?

IMO it's worth a try.

Accelerator Pedal Release Position Learning Procedure.

1. Make sure that the accelerator pedal is fully released.
2. Turn ignition switch “ON” and wait at least 2 seconds.
3. Turn ignition switch “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.
4. Turn ignition switch “ON” and wait at least 2 seconds.
5. Turn ignition switch “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.


Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning

1. Make sure that accelerator pedal is fully released.
2. Turn ignition switch is “ON”.
3. Turn ignition switch is “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.
Make sure that the throttle valve moves during above 10 seconds by confirming the operating sound.


Idle Air Volume Learning (Throttle Position Learning)
It is better to count the time accurately with a clock.

1. Perform “Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning”.
2. Perform “Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning”.
3. Start engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature.
4. Turn ignition switch “OFF” and wait at least 10 seconds.
5. Conform that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON” and wait 3 seconds.
6. Repeat the following (steps 7a, 7b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds.
7a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD)
7b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
8. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 20 seconds until the Check Engine Light (CEL) stops blinking and turned ON.
9. Fully release the accelerator pedal within 3 seconds after the CEL is ON.
10. Start engine and let it idle.
11. Wait 20 seconds.
12. Rev up the engine two or three times and make sure the idle speed and ignition timing are within the specifications.

 

Thanks for the tip.. I'm going to let some other goat try out those procedures. The last time I followed those procedure my check engine light came on. It went away after 3 days. Just for reference I did unplug my car for a week while I was on vacation after the intake install.

After driving some more tonight I was able to stall my car 2 times. It's not easy. I didn't have to go 90mph, but it seems the higher speed you go, the chances of stalling increases. What I did was while entering a freeway, I would accelerate as fast as I can to 60+ mph. I think I'm still in 3rd gear. Press on the clutch and watch the RPMS go down. Most of the time the car will struggle to stay at idle. I would say I can stall out my car 1 of 5 times.

I'll reinstall my intake when I come back from vacation. Hopefully MNDZA will do it before me so that I don't have to go to the trouble of reinstalling it.

G35C 6MT / AMG E55

 

<blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr>

Wreck then get the Z-pipe too and you WILL feel the difference. Trust me thats how I felt but after the Z tube I love it.

<hr></blockquote>
if it fixes the stalling bug, I would buy it.

G35C 6MT / AMG E55

 

Thanks for your input and I'm glad you are enjoying your GTI. I've driven one and it's a fun car to drive.

After reading your comments, it still doesn't answer my question if the Stall Bug has been corrected with the stock intake.

G35C 6MT / AMG E55

 

The 300ZX had a similar problem, and the fix for it and many other issues was to reset the ECU, by disconnecting the battery for an hour or so. I am not familiar yet with all the reset procedures on the G, but it should be something similar.

 

Lol, yeah 10 hours should prolly do the trick. I'd also give it a week of normal driving (or around 200 miles) before you sound the alarm. I know that on my old 300 whenever you do any modification (or clean your air filter) you always had to reset the ECU so that it could learn the new patterns. It also would drive better after doing so, even without changing anything.

 

Enjoy the GTI. Thanks for the input. It'll probably be more appreciated here: http://www.clubgti.com/forum/

 

Is the stillen/old injen design a ram-air design? the faster you go the more air gets forced into it? if this is true my guess is that at high engine speeds and the engine is sucking in a lot of air it flows straight through, using the full tube, going through the middle of the MAFS, yeilding an accurate reading. When the air is forced through the filter, and slows down, it becomes turbulent, my guess is the air sticks to the edges of the pipe and not much goes in the middle, where the MAFS sensor is in the pipe. This causes a lean out condition, hence the engine stalls.

There needs to be some sort of baffle to make sure the air flows smoothly over the mafs, or totally remove the ram air effect for this problem to go away, if my theory is right.

Any other ideas?

He dropped it into neutral, lets not talk about if he should or shouldn't have done that, its OK to do that, the car should NOT stall when that happens, therfore there is a problem and on a brand new car like this it needs to be addressed. The more little problems you let add up the worse your car will become on an overall driveability and reliability scaled. Isn't this why we all bought new cars? hell we could be driving BPU++ Supra Twin Turbos, still nice inside, crazy fast, beautiful, but not as reliable, or refined as a brand new car

-Sasha Anis

91MR2T For Sale (Toronto, Email For Details)
Ordering G35C November/December
www.SoundOfTurbo.com

 

I can confirm this happens with the stock intake as well. As long as I accelerate hard and take the RPM's up to at least 4000, put it in neutral, the engine will cutout. This has happened several times already.

Just came back from lunch, but this time I left it in gear and braked instead of putting it in neutral. The engine almost died, and the tach kinda bounced around below idle. Car has 1350+ miles on it, so I only recently started driving it hard since it is passed breakin.

 

Thanks for the confirmation. I'll just leave it on. it's no big deal to me.

G35C 6MT / AMG E55