Why is my G so slow
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 534
Likes: 61
From: Goodyear, AZ
i really dont think it is me as a driver. i might look at launching lower, but my launches from what i can tell are atleast high 2.1*'s or low 2.1*'s. I can say that i am a pretty good driver. I hit a 14.3 @ 98mph in my 6mt accord with just a cai....also the accord has less power and less torque but it also weighs less. My 60' foot were low 2.2*'s in the accord. I just expect more from this car. and also, when the car was modified i could easily trap 102-103 in the accord with i would get 13.8's low 13.7*'s......i just seriously think there is something wrong with the car. I took it to the dealer and they said nothing was wrong with it. I know this car isnt the fastest thing in the world, but i would expect it to be something near what it is rated. I just need to take it to the track to confirm
Klubhead wtf are talking about all I said was the 350Z is faster then the G I dont know why living in SoCal it would be any diff. I would like to see you prove me wrong, yes i got off topic from the main post about why his car is slower then it should be I just wanted to clarify to people who think they should be able to beat a Z a 13.77 sec. car all the time.
Originally Posted by BoostedIS300
Klubhead wtf are talking about all I said was the 350Z is faster then the G I dont know why living in SoCal it would be any diff. I would like to see you prove me wrong, yes i got off topic from the main post about why his car is slower then it should be I just wanted to clarify to people who think they should be able to beat a Z a 13.77 sec. car all the time.
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 534
Likes: 61
From: Goodyear, AZ
Originally Posted by JDM 350GT
pch2005...you gotta be kidding me...lol 

Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 534
Likes: 61
From: Goodyear, AZ
Originally Posted by FAST1
I think there is something seriously wrong with me G. I think it is just dirt slow. I raced my brother that has a 2003 350z auto and he spanks me...BAD. He ran a 15.0-15.2 @ 94-95 mph and he is spanking me by atleast two cars.
I have an '05 coupe and I've had it to the drag strip on two occassions. My car is bone stock and my best time in the 1/4 is 14.3 at 101 MPH, and I've never been slower than 14.5 at 100 MPH. It seems from your post that your car is at least a sec slower than mine. If I were you, I'd take my car to the nearest speed shop to have it checked out.
I have an '05 coupe and I've had it to the drag strip on two occassions. My car is bone stock and my best time in the 1/4 is 14.3 at 101 MPH, and I've never been slower than 14.5 at 100 MPH. It seems from your post that your car is at least a sec slower than mine. If I were you, I'd take my car to the nearest speed shop to have it checked out.
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 534
Likes: 61
From: Goodyear, AZ
Originally Posted by trey.hutcheson
First, when you say the z only traps around 95, what are the conditions? Is it high altitude? The assumption that your car will trap 99 to 100 is based on good conditions.
Second, ignore all these people telling you to shift earlier. You've got the revup motor, which holds peak power all the way to redline. There is no reason to shift earlier. And Klubbheads is right about the indicated rpm; the tach on your car reads high. So shifting at an indicated 7200 is closer to 7k, give or take, and depending on gear.
Klubbheads is right again about vdc. Vdc shouldn't be on any time you race. Period. If it's wet outside, you shouldn't be racing anyway.
And you're launching too high. There is no reason to launch at 4500 on street tires. You'll just spin. Not to mention that will kill the clutch. Launch at a more conservative 2500 to 3k.
Lastly, a CAI will do nothing for the revup. The revup hates CAI's. If you're dead set on an intake, go with the JWT.
Second, ignore all these people telling you to shift earlier. You've got the revup motor, which holds peak power all the way to redline. There is no reason to shift earlier. And Klubbheads is right about the indicated rpm; the tach on your car reads high. So shifting at an indicated 7200 is closer to 7k, give or take, and depending on gear.
Klubbheads is right again about vdc. Vdc shouldn't be on any time you race. Period. If it's wet outside, you shouldn't be racing anyway.
And you're launching too high. There is no reason to launch at 4500 on street tires. You'll just spin. Not to mention that will kill the clutch. Launch at a more conservative 2500 to 3k.
Lastly, a CAI will do nothing for the revup. The revup hates CAI's. If you're dead set on an intake, go with the JWT.
I think you all are wronge! Good shifting at the sweet spot should smoke a zee. Somewhere around 6800rpms in 1-2 shift 6500 2-3 shift 6400rpms 3-4 shift. You do need to shift fast and get the power to the ground.
bassed on this post only!!! I know i COULD DRIVE YOUR CAR INTO THE HIGH 13'S AT over 101mph.
bassed on this post only!!! I know i COULD DRIVE YOUR CAR INTO THE HIGH 13'S AT over 101mph.
Originally Posted by BoostedIS300
Klubhead wtf are talking about all I said was the 350Z is faster then the G I dont know why living in SoCal it would be any diff. I would like to see you prove me wrong, yes i got off topic from the main post about why his car is slower then it should be I just wanted to clarify to people who think they should be able to beat a Z a 13.77 sec. car all the time.
Originally Posted by Klubbheads
the auto Z will not be able tor run less than 14.3 in a perfect weather condition with perfect driver and will trap not more than 98mph. Thats all im saying.
I know a local guy with an 04 5AT z. He had pullies and test pipes. No intake, exhaust, spacer, or anything else. The night I hit my first 14.1, he was doing 13.5's. When he took out his passenger seat and spare+tools, he hit a 13.3 at 103. That night I had cats, and I trapped 100.
The auto z's are no slouches.
Originally Posted by pch2005
I live in phx, az...so when we raced it was like 106 degrees outside during the day time, and when we raced at night it was like at 92 degrees....maybe less. Also, props on your times man. 102 mph is great for a sedan and the mods you have.
As for the sedan comment... they'll put down the same times as the coupes. Same car.
And I'm not busting your *****, but I think you need to go to the track before you can claim you're pulling a 2.1 sixty foot. Most g's run 2.2's. Fewer run 2.1's. Very few run 2.0's or better(on street tires). And you sure as hell are not doing 2.1's if you're launching at 4.5k, unless you're feathering your clutch the *whole* way.
At this point, don't be concerned with if your car is slow. Wait till it cools down a bit, then take both cars to the track on the same night. See how you trap. You may be getting a little ahead of yourself right now.
Originally Posted by FAST1
I have an '05 coupe and I've had it to the drag strip on two occassions. My car is bone stock and my best time in the 1/4 is 14.3 at 101 MPH, and I've never been slower than 14.5 at 100 MPH. It seems from your post that your car is at least a sec slower than mine. If I were you, I'd take my car to the nearest speed shop to have it checked out.
And how can you claim his car is at least a second slower than your car? You don't know anything about his car. He hasn't taken it to the track. He doesn't know how much he's trapping. You don't know his elevation, or any other conditions. His only measuring point is his brothers z. Just because he can't keep up on the street is meaningless at the track.
I've goofed around with a friend's mini cooper s, and another friend's wrx. They both had no trouble keeping up with me. At the track, I was faster by more than a second each. Comparing cars on the street is meaningless. Too many variables. One guy might steal the hit, or bog, or spin, or whatever. When you go to the track, you can compare timeslips that show actual real-world high precision metrics. You can throw out reaction time, and who crosses the line first. You can also factor out traction. With all that, you can finally determine which car really is faster(up to 1320 feet that is).
Doing it on the street is pointless.
Originally Posted by pch2005
So, i read earlier that this engine is a "rev up" enigne. Does that mean it already comes with the rev up2 manifold? Also, no cai, just buy jwt? CAI are no good for our engines. Also, what about headers. Want to buy top speed headers with test pipes and install my 75 shot. Then get it tuned with an safc2. Also, do u guys think i should install the FPR?
Coupes and sedans, 05+, with the manual tranny, come with the "revup" motor. The internals are a bit different, including strengthened rods(different rod bolt configuration), different heads(not sure about flow numbers), lower plenum with shorter runners, variable exhaust timing, higher redline, and different ecu maps. All of those changes created a bump in horsepower up top, but a los of low and midrange torque. With the standard engines, horsepower peaks at 6200, and drops steadily. With the revup, horsepower peaks at roughly the same location, but it's pretty steady all the way till redline(very slight drop, maybe 2 to 3hp).
The front two cylinders are supposedly airstarved; hence the various plenum and plenum spacers on the market. Long tube CAI's(like the aem, nismo, injen) don't play well with cars that have aftermarket plenum setups(replacements or spacers). The revup, in general, doesn't like CAI's either. Hence my recommendation to stick with something like the JWT. For more info, check out the intake/exhaust section.
Headers I can't comment on. I personally would like a set of strups, but install is going to cost a fortune. Again, check the intake/exhaust section. Same goes for test pipes.
One mod that you might want to look into is the mrev2 plus spacer. I've got the original mrev+. I only saw about half the gains of every one else, but I think I'm the exception. I still recommend it.
I'd also recommend staying away from the safc2. If you're going to go with a tune, either drive over to technosquare, or buy a full piggyback. Utec. Greddy emanage ultimate. Unichip. If you're near phoenix, there's a unichip tuner out near you. PM a guy named sentry65 either on here or on my350z. He has a little experience with piggybacks and he's in AZ. The reason you should stay away from the afcs are the stock ecu will change maps on the fly, and any tuning you've done with the afc will be useless; even possibly harmful. I only know of one guy that's running an afc that hasn't complained(ISMSOLUTIONS). Check with him for more info on the plusses/minuses.
More important - research research research. Here and my350z.com. Post in the appropriate sections.



