lol....kool on the 60' to me. i believe my launches are great in this car. That is why i claim that. A lot better than my accord which i was able to do low 2.2*'s on toyo t1's

 

HAHAHA 13.3 with a pasenger seat out and tools? dude your smokin some good ****, supercharged Gs run around 13.2..... atleast where i live in florida

this thread just seems kind of stupid IMO...i mean rather than looking at everything like rocket science why dont you just look at facts from the factory when 2 of the same cars come off the line they are not going to be just as fast as one another........like i said before you can have 2 of the same cars and one be 2 cars faster than the other..why? idk it just happens........whatever i do what i want!

 

so what would u call the slow one? would you say something wrong or that is just the way it is. I guess if someone tells me that if i give a baseball cap they would give me a 100 dollars and when they give me the money, i only get 75.....wouldnt u wonder why u only got 75....weird ananlogy...i know. I just didnt know what else to think. lol

 

you might be right klubhead about the auto Z only clocking a 14.3 the 13.7 I got was from a stock 350Z 6mt. anyways i guess we have gotten off topic about this whole thing so I 'll stop with my ranting and raving about this 1/4 mile time stuff.

 

Dude if you keep VDC on when you power shift it will immediately cut power to your rear wheels and chew up your rear brakes at the same time. also, don't shift that high, your just bouncing off your rev limiter loosing power. You see that blinking red light, that is the optimum power curve for your car. Use it to shift, that will pretty much give you the fastest times, unlesss you've messed with it and changed the settings. also one more thing, when you clucth, you only have to tap it, it sits real high, you can push down like 1 inch and be able to shift. Otherwise your wasting time pushing it to the floor.

 

WTF? uhh the factory setting for "that blinking red light" is 8k rpm, you're supposed to change it to whatever you want. And the "optimum power curve" ?? I didn't know this car had different power curves. I do know it has different gears though and that you want to be in as low a gear as possible for maximum acceleration. Especially considering its called a REV-UP engine.

TAKE THE ENGINE TO REDLINE TO GO THE FASTEST

That's true.

 

then just powershift it if clutching is such a waste of time.

 

Originally Posted by FAST1
I think there is something seriously wrong with me G. I think it is just dirt slow. I raced my brother that has a 2003 350z auto and he spanks me...BAD. He ran a 15.0-15.2 @ 94-95 mph and he is spanking me by atleast two cars.

I have an '05 coupe and I've had it to the drag strip on two occassions. My car is bone stock and my best time in the 1/4 is 14.3 at 101 MPH, and I've never been slower than 14.5 at 100 MPH. It seems from your post that your car is at least a sec slower than mine. If I were you, I'd take my car to the nearest speed shop to have it checked out.

thanx man. i think i am going to have to do that.


Pch 2005 - Actually if you are into straight line speed you have the wrong car. There are many, many cars that are faster than a G35. Hell, the luxury sedan LS 430 will give you a run for your money on the highway.

Have you considered other cars that are much faster? For example you can buy an '06 C6 Vette with the Z51 option for around $45K. The 07s are about to come out and most Dealers are offering the '06s at near invoice. C6s with the Z51 option run upper 12s with trap speeds around 112. You'll blow away your brother's car without breaking a sweat. If your life style can accomodate a two seater, go to this web site and check out the C6 Dealer inventory section for serious discounts on new cars:http://forums.corvetteforum.com/index.php?

If you don't like the Vette or you need a car with a back seat, I'd check out the M3. I had an '02 M3 and I could run low 13s any time at the track. I never broke into the 12s, but I did run 13.1s on a couple occassions. If the $60K price for a new M3 is out of reach, you can buy an 04 M3 for the mid $40Ks.

The reason that I'm suggesting other cars to you is that you can dump thousands into your G and still have a slow car, unless of course you want to go wild and add a supercharger, but that's going to set you back big bucks. The best bang for your aftermarket buck is to buy a chip for turbocharged cars. For around $500 you can really improve a car's performance. The improvement is far less dramatic when chipping a non-turbo car.

Anyway I wouldn't invest a lot in aftermarket performance addons for your G. The results won't be that great and they will probably hurt your car's resale value.

Best of luck.

 

I'll just save you further embarrasment. Well driven z's, NA, can go deep into the 13's and even high 12's, with good conditions. Audiblemayhem did 12.9@106 in his z NA. Alberto did a 13.1@107. VeeTec has done low 13's. And so did the guy I was referring to. It was late october, and about 40 degrees when he ran this time. Here's his timeslip:
http://my350z.com/forum/showpost.php...&postcount=457

I was there. And I wasn't smoking anything.

 

the 3.5 rear end helped him a crap load....
I'd wish I get a race with some of these cars, with my G I ran a 14.2 with nismo exhuast and spacer with a intake. That was with shot tires and toe out.
With my bmw I ran 13.37 and no one else at the track was close to that to give me a good race...

 

I looked at his time slip...he isnt stock at all hahaha look at his signature he ran 14.04 stock....and 13.39 with the mods and no seat.....

Where are you guys running at?? here in florida the best stock time i have seen for a z was 14.2 the best for G was 14.5.....modded porsche 911 turbos are only running 12.9 evos running 20 ibs are running 12.8 and modded str-4s are only running around 13.6 ...thats here in florida in 85 degree weather and humidity......

 

My original post mentioned the seat, and also said he only had pullies and test pipes at the time. I think he might have had a cheapo ypipe also, and also maybe the popcharger, but I can't recall. His utec, plenum, and gears have been added since that run.

That was in late october, and it was about 40 degrees at the time. Elevation is 700 feet.

The plenum, 3.5, and utec weren't a factor. Does anyone really think a popcharger, pullies, and pipes are going to deduct more than 1 or 2 tenths from his et?

 

3.5 hardly helps at all in the 1320.

 

if i remember correctly with a pulley set you can save up to 5 lbs of rotation weight and since you get to mulitply the weight from 2x up to 7x depending on what mods you have done..... so that can be up to 35 pounds...and test pipes will make a difference im guess test pipes will knock off atleast .1 or .2 and pulleys prolly .1 or .2 as well....

 

Sure... you can add those numbers up however you like. It won't change reality. If that were the case, all g's would be running low 13's.