Why is my G so slow
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Joined: Jul 2006
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ok well thats my trap speed then....if i was in arizona where you are (remember something about arizona not sure though)would i be running low times like that as well or whats up? im still confused on how you run times like that...?
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Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 387
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From: Los Angeles, CA
Originally Posted by truplay8
must be the driver.........drop a turbo
Oh yeah, back to topic. Me' thinks its the driver. I have had one race with a Z and it was close because I didn't think the guy wanted to race, he got the jump and I still stayed with him. You're not shifting right.
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 534
Likes: 61
From: Goodyear, AZ
Originally Posted by trey.hutcheson
Crash course:
Coupes and sedans, 05+, with the manual tranny, come with the "revup" motor. The internals are a bit different, including strengthened rods(different rod bolt configuration), different heads(not sure about flow numbers), lower plenum with shorter runners, variable exhaust timing, higher redline, and different ecu maps. All of those changes created a bump in horsepower up top, but a los of low and midrange torque. With the standard engines, horsepower peaks at 6200, and drops steadily. With the revup, horsepower peaks at roughly the same location, but it's pretty steady all the way till redline(very slight drop, maybe 2 to 3hp).
The front two cylinders are supposedly airstarved; hence the various plenum and plenum spacers on the market. Long tube CAI's(like the aem, nismo, injen) don't play well with cars that have aftermarket plenum setups(replacements or spacers). The revup, in general, doesn't like CAI's either. Hence my recommendation to stick with something like the JWT. For more info, check out the intake/exhaust section.
Headers I can't comment on. I personally would like a set of strups, but install is going to cost a fortune. Again, check the intake/exhaust section. Same goes for test pipes.
One mod that you might want to look into is the mrev2 plus spacer. I've got the original mrev+. I only saw about half the gains of every one else, but I think I'm the exception. I still recommend it.
I'd also recommend staying away from the safc2. If you're going to go with a tune, either drive over to technosquare, or buy a full piggyback. Utec. Greddy emanage ultimate. Unichip. If you're near phoenix, there's a unichip tuner out near you. PM a guy named sentry65 either on here or on my350z. He has a little experience with piggybacks and he's in AZ. The reason you should stay away from the afcs are the stock ecu will change maps on the fly, and any tuning you've done with the afc will be useless; even possibly harmful. I only know of one guy that's running an afc that hasn't complained(ISMSOLUTIONS). Check with him for more info on the plusses/minuses.
More important - research research research. Here and my350z.com. Post in the appropriate sections.
Coupes and sedans, 05+, with the manual tranny, come with the "revup" motor. The internals are a bit different, including strengthened rods(different rod bolt configuration), different heads(not sure about flow numbers), lower plenum with shorter runners, variable exhaust timing, higher redline, and different ecu maps. All of those changes created a bump in horsepower up top, but a los of low and midrange torque. With the standard engines, horsepower peaks at 6200, and drops steadily. With the revup, horsepower peaks at roughly the same location, but it's pretty steady all the way till redline(very slight drop, maybe 2 to 3hp).
The front two cylinders are supposedly airstarved; hence the various plenum and plenum spacers on the market. Long tube CAI's(like the aem, nismo, injen) don't play well with cars that have aftermarket plenum setups(replacements or spacers). The revup, in general, doesn't like CAI's either. Hence my recommendation to stick with something like the JWT. For more info, check out the intake/exhaust section.
Headers I can't comment on. I personally would like a set of strups, but install is going to cost a fortune. Again, check the intake/exhaust section. Same goes for test pipes.
One mod that you might want to look into is the mrev2 plus spacer. I've got the original mrev+. I only saw about half the gains of every one else, but I think I'm the exception. I still recommend it.
I'd also recommend staying away from the safc2. If you're going to go with a tune, either drive over to technosquare, or buy a full piggyback. Utec. Greddy emanage ultimate. Unichip. If you're near phoenix, there's a unichip tuner out near you. PM a guy named sentry65 either on here or on my350z. He has a little experience with piggybacks and he's in AZ. The reason you should stay away from the afcs are the stock ecu will change maps on the fly, and any tuning you've done with the afc will be useless; even possibly harmful. I only know of one guy that's running an afc that hasn't complained(ISMSOLUTIONS). Check with him for more info on the plusses/minuses.
More important - research research research. Here and my350z.com. Post in the appropriate sections.
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Im running a S-afc2 and i have no complaints at all after having it tunned my dyno graph showed 5-hp increase something was messed up and i only had like 193 hp at the wheels...
then they tuned it and showed 243 at the wheels..ill have to find the graph and upload it..in my case the afc was a positive
then they tuned it and showed 243 at the wheels..ill have to find the graph and upload it..in my case the afc was a positive
Originally Posted by pch2005
also, i do redline about 7300-7400. Each line is an increment of 200 rpms...i redline just short of the 2nd line. i need a cai.....and other mods. I have an nx wet kit with remote bottle opener and purge kit, aem FPR, and apex i' ground kit that needs to be installed
Otherwise there is something wrong with your car or possibly some other driving/launching technique if the car is that slow.
Originally Posted by RBull
If you are redlining at 7300-7400 your rev limiter is not working. As well you are losing acceleration because the power band has been exceeded. You are losing toruq and horsepower if in fact you are revving that high. Shift at or just before the proper redline and you may improve your run.
Otherwise there is something wrong with your car or possibly some other driving/launching technique if the car is that slow.
Otherwise there is something wrong with your car or possibly some other driving/launching technique if the car is that slow.
Originally Posted by Captain Baller
ok well thats my trap speed then....if i was in arizona where you are (remember something about arizona not sure though)would i be running low times like that as well or whats up? im still confused on how you run times like that...?
Go back and look at your timeslips. What was your trap on the 14.7 run? What was the trap on the 14.1 run? What were the dates? And conditions?
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 534
Likes: 61
From: Goodyear, AZ
Originally Posted by FAST1
Originally Posted by FAST1
I think there is something seriously wrong with me G. I think it is just dirt slow. I raced my brother that has a 2003 350z auto and he spanks me...BAD. He ran a 15.0-15.2 @ 94-95 mph and he is spanking me by atleast two cars.
I have an '05 coupe and I've had it to the drag strip on two occassions. My car is bone stock and my best time in the 1/4 is 14.3 at 101 MPH, and I've never been slower than 14.5 at 100 MPH. It seems from your post that your car is at least a sec slower than mine. If I were you, I'd take my car to the nearest speed shop to have it checked out.
thanx man. i think i am going to have to do that.
Pch 2005 - Actually if you are into straight line speed you have the wrong car. There are many, many cars that are faster than a G35. Hell, the luxury sedan LS 430 will give you a run for your money on the highway.
Have you considered other cars that are much faster? For example you can buy an '06 C6 Vette with the Z51 option for around $45K. The 07s are about to come out and most Dealers are offering the '06s at near invoice. C6s with the Z51 option run upper 12s with trap speeds around 112. You'll blow away your brother's car without breaking a sweat. If your life style can accomodate a two seater, go to this web site and check out the C6 Dealer inventory section for serious discounts on new cars:http://forums.corvetteforum.com/index.php?
If you don't like the Vette or you need a car with a back seat, I'd check out the M3. I had an '02 M3 and I could run low 13s any time at the track. I never broke into the 12s, but I did run 13.1s on a couple occassions. If the $60K price for a new M3 is out of reach, you can buy an 04 M3 for the mid $40Ks.
The reason that I'm suggesting other cars to you is that you can dump thousands into your G and still have a slow car, unless of course you want to go wild and add a supercharger, but that's going to set you back big bucks. The best bang for your aftermarket buck is to buy a chip for turbocharged cars. For around $500 you can really improve a car's performance. The improvement is far less dramatic when chipping a non-turbo car.
Anyway I wouldn't invest a lot in aftermarket performance addons for your G. The results won't be that great and they will probably hurt your car's resale value.
Best of luck.
I think there is something seriously wrong with me G. I think it is just dirt slow. I raced my brother that has a 2003 350z auto and he spanks me...BAD. He ran a 15.0-15.2 @ 94-95 mph and he is spanking me by atleast two cars.
I have an '05 coupe and I've had it to the drag strip on two occassions. My car is bone stock and my best time in the 1/4 is 14.3 at 101 MPH, and I've never been slower than 14.5 at 100 MPH. It seems from your post that your car is at least a sec slower than mine. If I were you, I'd take my car to the nearest speed shop to have it checked out.
thanx man. i think i am going to have to do that.
Pch 2005 - Actually if you are into straight line speed you have the wrong car. There are many, many cars that are faster than a G35. Hell, the luxury sedan LS 430 will give you a run for your money on the highway.
Have you considered other cars that are much faster? For example you can buy an '06 C6 Vette with the Z51 option for around $45K. The 07s are about to come out and most Dealers are offering the '06s at near invoice. C6s with the Z51 option run upper 12s with trap speeds around 112. You'll blow away your brother's car without breaking a sweat. If your life style can accomodate a two seater, go to this web site and check out the C6 Dealer inventory section for serious discounts on new cars:http://forums.corvetteforum.com/index.php?
If you don't like the Vette or you need a car with a back seat, I'd check out the M3. I had an '02 M3 and I could run low 13s any time at the track. I never broke into the 12s, but I did run 13.1s on a couple occassions. If the $60K price for a new M3 is out of reach, you can buy an 04 M3 for the mid $40Ks.
The reason that I'm suggesting other cars to you is that you can dump thousands into your G and still have a slow car, unless of course you want to go wild and add a supercharger, but that's going to set you back big bucks. The best bang for your aftermarket buck is to buy a chip for turbocharged cars. For around $500 you can really improve a car's performance. The improvement is far less dramatic when chipping a non-turbo car.
Anyway I wouldn't invest a lot in aftermarket performance addons for your G. The results won't be that great and they will probably hurt your car's resale value.
Best of luck.
Originally Posted by trey.hutcheson
An indicated 7200 rpms is actually closer to 6900 to 7k in reality. I've confirmed it through a techtom and on the dyno. The gauge reads high.
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Joined: Jul 2006
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Originally Posted by trey.hutcheson
I'm sorry. I've seen you list your ET's, but not traps. A 14.1 is usually around a 99mph trap.
Go back and look at your timeslips. What was your trap on the 14.7 run? What was the trap on the 14.1 run? What were the dates? And conditions?
Go back and look at your timeslips. What was your trap on the 14.7 run? What was the trap on the 14.1 run? What were the dates? And conditions?
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Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,090
Likes: 1
Originally Posted by pch2005
i am actually looking for over all performance, but i ask because the car to meis not at par where it should be. that was my concern. All the other cars are to expensive for me....lol. I am only 22 and will be going back to school.
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Joined: May 2004
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I have a 2005 6MT coupe (10K miles) and also felt the power was less than it used to be. I recently took the car in since I heard a clicking sound while first accelerating under the car. There is a TSB for this regarding the rear axle.
After they performed the TSB the clicking sound was gone and it is pulling much better. I had this fixed about 2 months ago and even in 5th it pulls much more than it used to. Just thought I would pass that along incase you also have that clicking sound.
After they performed the TSB the clicking sound was gone and it is pulling much better. I had this fixed about 2 months ago and even in 5th it pulls much more than it used to. Just thought I would pass that along incase you also have that clicking sound.
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 534
Likes: 61
From: Goodyear, AZ
Originally Posted by kroams
I have a 2005 6MT coupe (10K miles) and also felt the power was less than it used to be. I recently took the car in since I heard a clicking sound while first accelerating under the car. There is a TSB for this regarding the rear axle.
After they performed the TSB the clicking sound was gone and it is pulling much better. I had this fixed about 2 months ago and even in 5th it pulls much more than it used to. Just thought I would pass that along incase you also have that clicking sound.
After they performed the TSB the clicking sound was gone and it is pulling much better. I had this fixed about 2 months ago and even in 5th it pulls much more than it used to. Just thought I would pass that along incase you also have that clicking sound.
Originally Posted by kroams
I have a 2005 6MT coupe (10K miles) and also felt the power was less than it used to be. I recently took the car in since I heard a clicking sound while first accelerating under the car. There is a TSB for this regarding the rear axle.
After they performed the TSB the clicking sound was gone and it is pulling much better. I had this fixed about 2 months ago and even in 5th it pulls much more than it used to. Just thought I would pass that along incase you also have that clicking sound.
After they performed the TSB the clicking sound was gone and it is pulling much better. I had this fixed about 2 months ago and even in 5th it pulls much more than it used to. Just thought I would pass that along incase you also have that clicking sound.
It is a good idea to take your car in and have it repaired if you have the axel ticking, but im just letting you know that the kid above me is on crack.
