G35 Coupe V35 2003 - 07 Discussion about the 1st Generation V35 G35 Coupe

Synth oil change for US$44.99? - Is there something wrong here?

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Old Dec 6, 2006 | 03:42 PM
  #31  
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What base stock is it made out of? What type of additive package does it have? Have you found any data online that shows it's decent?

Originally Posted by g35rcr
royal purple is a good oil...it gives you piece of mind if you go over your change interval a few
 
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Old Dec 6, 2006 | 03:44 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Jeff92se
IMHO I think that is a mistake. I haven't read any data that shows Royal Purple is a quality oil. mpg improvement is not a tell tale sign that it's better. Thinner maybe.

Unless you have been closely comparing oil analysis results for Amsoil vs Royal Purple.
I have not done any oil comparisons on RP yet. But i did on amsoil on my previous car. I have to say that amsoil was good stuff. Reason why i switched to RP was because my friend was using it and he did get analysis done on his oil and his did just slightly better then my amsoil. Same car same time interval.
I figured why not and i gave it a try.

I can say this about amsoil that after driving my old car hard for 65k miles. Opening up the head revealed no gunk buildup and all engine components looked great. Unlike someone who was using conventional oil had more miles then me..not by a lot and he had soo much crap inside the his head. Driving styles were identical.
 
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Old Dec 6, 2006 | 03:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Jeff92se
What base stock is it made out of? What type of additive package does it have? Have you found any data online that shows it's decent?
i dont think they would reveal the secret formula behind the oil. Otherwise everyone would make it identical. But there are independent studdies that were done that showed RP doing better then other oils.

If i am not mistaken the show trucks on Spike TV did a comparison before and after the swap to RP and they showed drop in engine temps. Being that the car was ran before and after oil change.
 
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Old Dec 6, 2006 | 03:48 PM
  #34  
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Good info mygspot. What type of oil changes did the conventional oil user use? If he used a 3,000 mile oil change, I'm surprised he has gunk and varnish. If he pushed out to 5-7k, then I can fully understand.

Amsoil is great stuff. Pricey though. And not quite easily available enough for me. I just use Mobil 1 in the 5qt jugs from WallMart.
 
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Old Dec 6, 2006 | 03:57 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Jeff92se
Good info mygspot. What type of oil changes did the conventional oil user use? If he used a 3,000 mile oil change, I'm surprised he has gunk and varnish. If he pushed out to 5-7k, then I can fully understand.

Amsoil is great stuff. Pricey though. And not quite easily available enough for me. I just use Mobil 1 in the 5qt jugs from WallMart.
the other guy had the same car as me. I dont know his interval for changing oil but i know that he was pretty into the car and modding his. i was swaping a few parts with him when i was parting my car out and everything he was giving me from his cams to valve cover was just plain disgusting.

I agree that amsoil is hard to get. Around me i accidently ran into an independent dealer and started buying stuff through him. otherwise you can always order directly from the company. Now that i switched to RP its available at pepboys.
 
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Old Dec 6, 2006 | 04:14 PM
  #36  
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http://www.neosyntheticoil.com/oilover.htm

100% Synthetic - Not A Blend Like Most Available Today

A Clean Environmental Product - Reduced Pollution Compared To Hydrocarbon Based Lubricants

Reduces Friction and Drag

Increases Fuel Economy And Performance

Lowers Operating Temperatures

Provides Superior Film Strength

Resists High Temperatures

Eases Cold Temperature Starting

Offers Extended Drain Intervals - Up To 25,000 Miles

Extends Engine Longevity By Reducing Stress and Scuffing
 
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Old Dec 6, 2006 | 04:19 PM
  #37  
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I would never use any Conditioner for engine except for BG products. It's use by pros and does a really good job.
 
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Old Dec 6, 2006 | 04:28 PM
  #38  
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IMHO and to what I have seen, Amsoil still out performs RP, Redline and Mobil 1 in wear tests. I try to keep up with BITOG forums on tests but when I was reading it, it was known RP actually caused more wear overtime they Amsoil or Mobil 1.
 
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Old Dec 6, 2006 | 04:35 PM
  #39  
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Also I would like to mention that Fram filters, doesn't matter what model, are all junk. They all use cardboard caps. So Jeff92SE is right on this.
 
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Old Dec 6, 2006 | 04:58 PM
  #40  
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If youre gonna spend 12 bucks on a filter then you should just get the Mobil1. It's filtering capability has been proven time and time again. The K&N is another good option in that price range, it has a better flowthru but is less efficient at filtering. You can't have everything, they are contridictory to themselves, either you get free flow or high filtration.
 
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Old Dec 6, 2006 | 05:21 PM
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I am planning to get Mobil1 Synthetic oils. Which rate should I get?

[1] 5w30
[2] 10w30
 
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Old Dec 6, 2006 | 06:02 PM
  #42  
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5w30 is recommended [check your service manual]. 10w30 is okay too, but 5w30 is for all temperatures.
 
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Old Dec 6, 2006 | 06:26 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by g35rcr
or go to autozone and get castrol 0w-30 which is euro synthetic blend, the best stuff

+1
+1
+1

really good stuff, and its a full synthetic, not a blend


a quick faq on the oil
Basic information:

What is GC?
GC stands for German Castrol. It's officially named Castrol Syntec 0w-30.

Produces great UOA results.
Engines run quieter and smoother. (OK, that may be an opinion.)

Comparable price with other synthetics. ~$5 qt
GC is a TRUE synthetic. Made from PAO/Esters, not Group III.

The other Castrol Syntecs are not true synthetics.
Other examples of true synthetic oils are Mobil1 , Amsoil, Redline, and Royal Purple to name a few!
GC is good enough to have its own forum! That's gotta mean something.

What's bad about this stuff?
Not much.

You might have a hard time finding it depending on where you live.
Your car might not like it. You'll never know until you try.
Keep trying oils until you find one you're happy with.
Addicting. You'll see what I mean...

Is it "thin"? Come on, 0w-30 has to be watery.
NO! Please don't completely buy into that myth.

At cold temps, the 0w weight correlates to cold cranking viscosity.
That means GC will still flow at cold temps. (Which is a good thing!)
At operating temps, the 30 weight is actually close to a 40 weight.
GC is one of the thickest 30 weight oils around.
I don't want to go into too much detail about this here. It can be very confusing.
My point is, GC is not "thin" in most temperatures that we use our cars in.
 

Last edited by Derek173; Dec 6, 2006 at 06:34 PM.
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