dead battery + jump = dead console?
#16
Originally Posted by rs2183
Thanks bud.. looks like every single fuse in the box by the battery is fried. I'll go pick up some fuses. For those that are in the box looking things, do I have to worry about them? How do I check if they need replacing?
I have to go pick up a battery now as well.
Thanks for your help.
I have to go pick up a battery now as well.
Thanks for your help.
#18
When you jumped it, did you connect both +'s and both -'s directly, or did you connect one - to the chasis?
I recall hearind that if you dont put one - to a chasis, the instant surge of electricity into the vehicle will cause fuses to blow, especially if the the switches on the dead car are left on (like the ignition, lights, etc). Not sure how factual that is, but a reasonable possibility....
I recall hearind that if you dont put one - to a chasis, the instant surge of electricity into the vehicle will cause fuses to blow, especially if the the switches on the dead car are left on (like the ignition, lights, etc). Not sure how factual that is, but a reasonable possibility....
#21
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iTrader: (11)
You need to have your WHOLE electrical system checked. I know with GM & Ford products, a backward jump will fry the alternator. Replace the fuses and try again. Check your battery voltage when before and after you start it. Should be 11.5 to 12.5 with engine off, and 13.5 to 14.5 with engine on. If it is below that, replace the alternator.
PEOPLE! This can be avoided IF you get a set of Jumper Cables that has the polarity protection on it.
Reference Material:
Safety Jumper Cables
Battery Blues
PS: You need to check the car you were jumping from also. If the motor was running when you hooked them up backwards, it too may be shot.
PEOPLE! This can be avoided IF you get a set of Jumper Cables that has the polarity protection on it.
Reference Material:
Safety Jumper Cables
Battery Blues
PS: You need to check the car you were jumping from also. If the motor was running when you hooked them up backwards, it too may be shot.
#22
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#23
People usually say to turn off all your accessories prior to jump starting, becuase the voltage spike could fry things. With an electronic power button, not sure how one would do that tho....
As far as grounding to the battery vs the chassis... That has nothin to do with frying your fuses. It's because a lead-acid battery normally vents hydrogen gas. Attaching the (-) straight to the battery could ignite the hydrogen when it sparks in the vicinity. When you ground to the chassis, the idea is that the sparks are away from the battery where there could be flammable gases lingering.
As far as grounding to the battery vs the chassis... That has nothin to do with frying your fuses. It's because a lead-acid battery normally vents hydrogen gas. Attaching the (-) straight to the battery could ignite the hydrogen when it sparks in the vicinity. When you ground to the chassis, the idea is that the sparks are away from the battery where there could be flammable gases lingering.
#24
Originally Posted by Texasscout
I know with GM &
I haven't jumped my G yet, but our TL was a pain, becuase there is no underhood light, and you have to remove a bunch of clips to get the battery cover off, then it's so fricken tight in there, you gotta wedge the jumper cables in there to touch the (+). Then there is nothing to connect the (-) too, because all the metal components under the hood are either painted really well, or are covered/sealed with plastic covers.
Last edited by avs007; 02-26-2007 at 07:50 PM.
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#27
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Originally Posted by rs2183
ehhhhh everythign is working but the damn passenger window won't come down now. You guys think it's a fuse? Or one of those window motor problems everyone else is having?
any ideas? when i push the button I get no response for the passenger window, not even like it's trying. So.. is there a fuse for the windows?
#28
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Originally Posted by rs2183
any ideas? when i push the button I get no response for the passenger window, not even like it's trying. So.. is there a fuse for the windows?
#29
According to the service manual's Trouble Diagnostic Chart, if a passenger side window cannot be operated:
1. Power window sub-switch power supply circuit and ground check
2. Power window serial link check
3. Passenger side window motor circuit check
4. Replace the BCM
Note: There is no reference to "Verify the fuse". This may be because it is obvious, but I couldn't find it in the Service Manual.
Good luck
1. Power window sub-switch power supply circuit and ground check
2. Power window serial link check
3. Passenger side window motor circuit check
4. Replace the BCM
Note: There is no reference to "Verify the fuse". This may be because it is obvious, but I couldn't find it in the Service Manual.
Good luck
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