G35 Coupe V35 2003 - 07 Discussion about the 1st Generation V35 G35 Coupe

Serious problem over ~4000RPM in 6M/T

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Old 01-02-2004, 04:42 AM
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Serious problem over ~4000RPM in 6M/T

Can some of you try this and let me know your results?

Accelerate aggressively to 4000+ RPM in 2nd or 3rd gear, and immediately step and hold down clutch. You would expect the RPM's to drop to idle, but many times it would drop to below idle and either bounce back up or sometimes the engine would die completely. When it does bounce, it'll idle around 800 RPM for a few minutes before dropping down to just over the first tick mark on the tach. I took it into the dealer to have them look at it, but they didn't know exactly what was wrong and said it was not a normal driving condition to step and hold down clutch. They said they were even able to duplicate this problem on a couple of coupes in their inventory.

What they did was raise the idle speed by 50RPM and reset idle relearning portion of the ECU, which helped a little but the engine cutoff still happens occassionally.

Car has 5000 miles on it, but this problem has happened as long as I've had the car. The only under the hood mods I have are the Z-tube and K&N drop in, but the problem has occured even before the mods.

2004 G35C 6MT DG/G Premium, Alum Pedals, Huper Optik 30/40/50, Z-Tube, K&N Drop in
 
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Old 01-02-2004, 05:50 AM
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Re: Serious problem over ~4000RPM in 6M/T

It would seem strange that the car would stall, but why on earth would you drive the car like that? It's not even a good idea to keep the clutch continually depressed while waiting for the light to change at a stop light. Why would you do it after accelerating aggressively in the first few gears?

RainMeister
'04 G35C 6MT, diamond graphite, premium, nav, aero
 
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Old 01-02-2004, 11:43 AM
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Re: Serious problem over ~4000RPM in 6M/T *DELETED* *DELETED*

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Old 01-02-2004, 12:03 PM
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Re: Serious problem over ~4000RPM in 6M/T

"There is nothing wrong with keeping the clutch depressed at a red light."

Well, you are using the throw out bearing when the clutch is depressed -- thats considered "wear." And on some cars like the 2g DSM Eclipse, they suggest not keeping the clutch depressed because the motor has a crank-walk flaw.

I mean holding down the clutch is never a great idea, but being OUT of gear completely, put much less stress on the car. Even though the car is not moving when the clutch is depressed, there are still mechanical parts that are moving down there.

- Mike

http://www.ClearCorners.Com -//- There are four corners to this world, we're clearing each one, one step at a time.
 
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Old 01-02-2004, 12:23 PM
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Re: Serious problem over ~4000RPM in 6M/T

Sorry for the deleted post, I am having trouble editing, I am getting dropped.

My initial post failed to address the original concern properly, so I will touch on that first this time.

If when dis-engaging your clutch after accelerating causes your engine to stutter or your rpm to drop way too low or the engine to stall, that is a serious problem which should be resolved. Power steering and brakes loss, not to mention having to restart a moving car are unwelcome safety hazards. There has been concerns voiced here before about this condition occuring after installing CAI's. As you state your car has alway done this, I would push for a cure.

With regard to engaging the clutch after accelerating, this is not a problem and there are a number of reasons one might do this. "Clutch Plates" only wear when engaging the clutch while the plates spin at different speeds. Holding the clutch pedal in at a red light is not a concern. Dropping out of gear at a light is not necessary. I never do and have "never worn out a clutch or throw bearing". Riding a clutch is bad though.

 
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Old 01-02-2004, 12:55 PM
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Re: Serious problem over ~4000RPM in 6M/T

just throwing in my 2 cents. I've always understood clutch wear to happen while engaging and disengaging. But not while fully engaged or fully disengaged.

'04 Red/willow 5a, all but navi
 
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Old 01-02-2004, 01:03 PM
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Re: Serious problem over ~4000RPM in 6M/T

If the light is long, I just put it in neutral....but I know I'm giong to move soon, I keep it in gear with the clutch down ready to go.

04 Black G35C 6MT | Premium | Navigation
 
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Old 01-02-2004, 01:50 PM
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Re: Serious problem over ~4000RPM in 6M/T

Rainmeister,

Just to clarify the problem, it has nothing to do with holding down the clutch at a red light. Let me give you a scenario in which my problem may happen.

I'm cruising down a street towards a green light, accelerate hard anticipating it may turn red, but realize I am not going to make it as I am near the intersection, brake and hold down clutch. It can happen here. There are many "emergency" situations where one may have to slam on the brakes and at the same time press the clutch.

2004 G35C 6MT DG/G Premium, Alum Pedals, Huper Optik 30/40/50, Z-Tube, K&N Drop in
 
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Old 01-02-2004, 02:36 PM
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Re: Serious problem over ~4000RPM in 6M/T

I have a similiar problem with my G. Except it mostly occurs with the clutch all the way in. If I'm just idling at the light and give the gas pedal a poke the RPM's will shoot up (normal) but as they fall back to idle the engine will almost stall as the needle goes below 500 RPM (idle) then jump back up to normal idle. It doesn't seem to matter if it's cold or warm. It's almost like the MAF sensor or whatever in the intake is mis reporting to the ECU. I pisses me off to no end becuase I often give the pedal poke to raise the RPM's before letting out the clutch. I have takin to to 2 dealers which of course both stated they could not duplicate the problem. I think that should be the Infiniti dealers new motto. [img]/w3timages/icons/mad.gif[/img]

-Jason
Laser Red '03 6MT
 
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Old 01-02-2004, 02:40 PM
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Re: Serious problem over ~4000RPM in 6M/T

That happens with a lot of cars, I wouldnt say that this is something new. Picture it like this, you're going from a LOT of air intake to very little as you push the clutch and bring the car to a hault. I've never actually had a car stall, but for them to "almost stall" or "jitter" is pretty normal.

Besides, if you are coming to a stop that quickly why dont you practice heel and toeing, thats what I do. You'll keep the motor spinning and at the same time practice your skills.

http://www.ClearCorners.Com -//- There are four corners to this world, we're clearing each one, one step at a time.
 
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Old 01-02-2004, 03:08 PM
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Re: Serious problem over ~4000RPM in 6M/T

Actually I double clutch pretty often to help with it. It's more of annoyance than anything. I have to admit mine has never stalled becauase if it. What I am worried about is if I order the K & N Typhoon. If I add that to the mix I'm worried it may begin stalling. Also I don't like to double clutch often as I would rather replace break pads then clutch disks. It is quite fun though when coming to a stop as you can really hear the exhaust not sing. Another reason I don't double clutch often is that I have found it more difficult on this Drive - By - Wire system than on previous vehicles where I had a throttle cable. I am also wondering if the DBW throttle system is possibley a culprit? Maybe it's causing laggy Throttle response? Dunno....

-Jason
Laser Red '03 6MT
 
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Old 01-02-2004, 03:15 PM
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Re: Serious problem over ~4000RPM in 6M/T

Wouldn't this be considered a serious safety hazard? What if I'm going for a drive on a curvy mountain road, not speeding but accelerating hard out of turns, a deer jumps out in front of me, I have to slam on the brakes and hold down clutch, car dies, lose power steering, go off of cliff?

2004 G35C 6MT DG/G Premium, Alum Pedals, Huper Optik 30/40/50, Z-Tube, K&N Drop in
 
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Old 01-02-2004, 05:48 PM
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Re: Serious problem over ~4000RPM in 6M/T

Double clutch is when you depress the clutch, take it out of gear, release the clutch, depress the clutch, and then put it back into gear and release clutch -- thats different than heel/toe.

When I suggested heel/toe, you dont necessarily need to put it into a gear. When I bring the car to a stop sometimes I like to push the clutch and while I am braking, just blip the throttle a bit to keep the rpms a tad higher.

I actually blip the throttle without going into gear, when I want to go into 1st at a tight turn because its usually harder to get into first and takes a bit more time for the transmission to let me into that gear. So I blip, wait a bit.. and eventually the stick slips into 1st.

But anyway, thats besides the point. If your car actually STALLS, then I am sure its a problem and you can compensate that for your driving style by having the idle raised. If its too low,. I can imagine that happening. If its turned up a notch, I am 100% sure that that should eliminate ANY chance of stalling.


mvorion> What if I'm going for a drive on a curvy mountain road, not speeding but accelerating hard out of turns, a deer jumps out in front of me, I have to slam on the brakes and hold down clutch, car dies, lose power steering, go off of cliff?

Under extreme panic situations, its pretty common for most people to FORGET to depress the clutch which of course, will stall a car. Now even if you DID depress the clutch, shouldnt you be concerned with avoiding the accident? See, what you are forgetting is that IF the car would stall, it would do it when your car would reach a stop. This means zero (0) miles per hour. Worst comes to worse, your car is at a complete stop.

My point? Dont worry so much. If you miraculously manage stall your car, raise your idle.

- Mike

http://www.ClearCorners.Com -//- There are four corners to this world, we're clearing each one, one step at a time.
 
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Old 01-02-2004, 08:39 PM
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Re: Serious problem over ~4000RPM in 6M/T

I don't disagree with you that the car should not stall under the conditions you describe. I'll try it on my G as soon as the rain quits here.

Not to get sidetracked from your original concern, but my advice when slowing for a light is to either downshift, hold the shift, or release the gear into neutral without staying on the clutch. It depends on your speed, gear, engine revs and distance to the intersection. If you're a short distance away from stopping, just put the car into neutral as you brake. As Mike has earlier stated, staying on the clutch will eventually fry the throwout bearing; just ask your shop mechanic the next time you see him. If you're some distance away, leave it in the current gear and let-up on the gas, allowing engine braking to slow you down. If your engine is already spinning at low revs, then downshift, allowing engine braking to once again slow you down. BTW, I would advise against getting into the habit of using downshifts to slow the car down as it places unnecessary strain on the drivetrain; use the brakes to slow down. You'll have to pardon me if this is already elementary to you.

Keep us posted on what you find out from your dealer on the stalling problem.

RainMeister
'04 G35C 6MT, diamond graphite, premium, nav, aero
 
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Old 01-02-2004, 09:21 PM
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Re: Serious problem over ~4000RPM in 6M/T

well this is the same problem in another thread, that people said it was the Stillen air filter causing it to stall at high speeds when the clutch is depress. Fact is, as I mentioned before you don't have to go at high speed to stall out your car.

I still haven't found a fix for it, but then again I haven't really tried to fix it.


G35C 6MT / AMG E55
 


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