Found out last week I have cross thread (officially stripped) on the passanger rear wheel nut.
Easy home fix or have to be taken to a shop?

 

If the stud is stripped you can press out the old stud and press in the new one. Not much to it.

 

With what?
I have a black and decker cordless drill, will that do the trick?
I was looking at the service manual, it seemed like the whole stud drum had to be replaced...

 

No it has to be pressed out not drilled out. It sounds like it would be the easiest for you to get the Dealers to replace it. It should not cost much to replace.

 

Damn, I'm trying to be handy here, lol.
Car is out of warranty, just want to be able to develop some confidence in fixing minor crap like this. Does seem like something hard to do just need clarification in how to go about fixing it. LIke when you say press, do you mean with my finger, lol. I can't see a part like that being able to be pressed out with my thumb. That leads me to believe that some machine (that I probably do not have) needs to do some work. I have the service manaul, it some what outlines the process, but it seems like the stud is permanetly connected to a drum and the drum seems like it needs replacing according to the drawing....

 

Here I did a quick google search for you Click here It will give you a good idea what is involved.
Hope this helps.

 

I'm not sure with the G, but on other cars i've work on, I used to be able to pound the stud out using a 4-5lbs hammer with ease. It's hard to tell if there's room or a hole/gap for the stud to slide back from these pictures from my350z.com.

FRONT

REAR


and when it comes to installing the new one, just set the new stud in position, place the rotors back on temporarily, place the wheel back on, tighten the bolt to sit the stud back in place.

you will need on of these, you'll be pounding forever with the regular nail hammer, but again...you will need to check and make sure there's clearance to pound the stud out

 

I Deleted my first thread, because of mis-information....

I think there is an access hole behind the assembly where you are able to push the stud out and re-install the new one.

You can see the notch in the photo below...its at about 1 o'clock



At least that was how it was on my old corvette...

Good luck

 

Go to your local autozone and pick up the tool used to straiten out the threads. The kit should run around 80 bucks. It is simple to use and will save you a $hit load of money. Here's the link.

http://www.autozone.com/R,NONAPP1025...ductDetail.htm

 

hub bolts are not much either... the factory ones atleast... think they are like $2 each off the top of my head...

If you need some let me know...

 

I see the notch too, looks like it'll work but i believe his problem is on the rear which is the other picture.

 

Exactly... When I got new studs on my other car because the idiots at Les Schwab x-threaded the lugs. I bought new studs for less than 2 bucks each. Don't know why you'd want to spend $80 for a kit to replace a 2 dollar part

On every car I've had to replace a stud, (never go to Les Schwab), there was always an access hole somewhere so that you could rotate the hub, to pound out the stud.

It could be my eyes, but in the picture of the rear, it looks like there is an access hole on the left side a little above the 9:00 position. But it looks like worst comes to worst, you can just remove one of the parking brake shoes, to give enough room to pound out the stud.

 

So you guys suggest that I jack my car up, take the wheel off, get a malet and pound it from the front to come out the back? Then how do I get the new stud secure so that it doesnt' pop off?

 

Put the stud in through the back. Then put a lug on the front, and tighten it until it pulls the cap of the stud through the hole. The cap of the stud will hold the stud in place with friction.

You might need to buy a spare lug to use for this, becuse I think the stock lugs are close-ended, so you wouldn't be able to thread the lug all the way to the stud.