Oil Change
Oil Change
My Car: Black 2005 G35 Coupe Manual Transmission
After searching some previous posts, I've decided to go with Royal Purple 10w30 or Mobil 1 5w30 with a Mobil 1 Oil Filter. (5 Quarts, right?)
Does anyone know the best place to get Oil and Oil Filters for a competitive price? Also, what is the recommended interval of oil changes?
I'm also looking into making my first mod on the car - probably intake. Anyone have a breakdown on actual horsepower gain/performance for each mod?
After searching some previous posts, I've decided to go with Royal Purple 10w30 or Mobil 1 5w30 with a Mobil 1 Oil Filter. (5 Quarts, right?)
Does anyone know the best place to get Oil and Oil Filters for a competitive price? Also, what is the recommended interval of oil changes?
I'm also looking into making my first mod on the car - probably intake. Anyone have a breakdown on actual horsepower gain/performance for each mod?
Go with Mobile over Royal Purple. As for oil change intervals, most oils are rated for up to 7500 miles, so what's an even more important factor here is what oil filter you are using. Some might not be good for any more than 4000 miles.
And as for performance, an intake will not do anything. If anything, you might lose a bit of response. The best intake mod I've ever had on my G was a drop in filter with z-tube. Since I have a front strut bar that won't fit with the stock intake box, I've changed to a Nismo CAI for the summer, and a Jim Wolf POP Charger for the winter.
If you want more power, the best bang for the buck is a Motordyne MREV2 with 5/16 spacer. For under $600, you'll get a gain of 15lbs of torque evenly across the board from before 3k RPMs, and about 2hp up top on revup motors only (05+ manual Gs).
And as for performance, an intake will not do anything. If anything, you might lose a bit of response. The best intake mod I've ever had on my G was a drop in filter with z-tube. Since I have a front strut bar that won't fit with the stock intake box, I've changed to a Nismo CAI for the summer, and a Jim Wolf POP Charger for the winter.
If you want more power, the best bang for the buck is a Motordyne MREV2 with 5/16 spacer. For under $600, you'll get a gain of 15lbs of torque evenly across the board from before 3k RPMs, and about 2hp up top on revup motors only (05+ manual Gs).
Last edited by dofu; Jan 3, 2009 at 02:23 AM.
go to this thread for oil filters... good filter and good price
https://g35driver.com/forums/g35-sed...ice-price.html
https://g35driver.com/forums/g35-sed...ice-price.html
Trending Topics
Honestly, I would skip the Mobil 1 and use Motul or Amsoil (both about the same price, and just as hard to find as the other in San Jose)
Oil + Filter + Intake + Manifold
I seriously don't believe you can go wrong with Mobil 1 synthetic oil and
their filters. I put 125K miles on my last Z using this combination and it's still
being driven and enjoyed, that's with zero issues! Intake....get the Z-Tube
and K&N drop in filter. Like was mentioned above the best "bang for your
buck" would be MotorDyne's MREV2 manifold and 5/16" spacer. The advertised
RWHP gain in in excess of 15 but probably higher with a actual cost closer to
$750....gains aren't cheap! (but sooooo much fun)
Gary
their filters. I put 125K miles on my last Z using this combination and it's still
being driven and enjoyed, that's with zero issues! Intake....get the Z-Tube
and K&N drop in filter. Like was mentioned above the best "bang for your
buck" would be MotorDyne's MREV2 manifold and 5/16" spacer. The advertised
RWHP gain in in excess of 15 but probably higher with a actual cost closer to
$750....gains aren't cheap! (but sooooo much fun)

Gary
I seriously don't believe you can go wrong with Mobil 1 synthetic oil and
their filters. I put 125K miles on my last Z using this combination and it's still
being driven and enjoyed, that's with zero issues! Intake....get the Z-Tube
and K&N drop in filter. Like was mentioned above the best "bang for yourbuck" would be MotorDyne's MREV2 manifold and 5/16" spacer. The advertised
RWHP gain in in excess of 15 but probably higher with a actual cost closer to
$750....gains aren't cheap! (but sooooo much fun)
Gary
their filters. I put 125K miles on my last Z using this combination and it's still
being driven and enjoyed, that's with zero issues! Intake....get the Z-Tube
and K&N drop in filter. Like was mentioned above the best "bang for yourbuck" would be MotorDyne's MREV2 manifold and 5/16" spacer. The advertised
RWHP gain in in excess of 15 but probably higher with a actual cost closer to
$750....gains aren't cheap! (but sooooo much fun)

Gary
http://www.imakenews.com/lng/e_artic....cfm?x=b11,0,w
And to top it all off, Mobil1 is pretty notorious for burning up really quickly. I only run Mobil1 if I forgot to order Amsoil or Motul. And if you do use Mobil1, get the gold top. The regular synthetic isn't a true synthetic anymore. I'm honestly not sure if the gold top is a true synthetic either, but it's better than the regular grey bottles. And about the oil change intervals... stick to 3k intervals if you use Mobil1.
Last edited by dofu; Jan 3, 2009 at 10:33 AM.
WTF!? Mobil one isn't truely synthetic anymore? Do they state this on the bottle or are they false advertising. Da*n! I would get Mobil 1 from walmart in a 5 quart jug for 20-25 bucks, how much more am I going to have to pay now?
Now, I'm no expert here but I have done some research and from what I can tell this motor oil isn't protecting your engine as it should be. Please note, that I am a Mobil 1 user as well.
The Universal Averages Column indicates typical levels that are common with 4900 miles on that particular "oil type". I am using quotations because no where is it indicated what "type" of oil it is except at the top where Mobil 1 5/30 is indicated. I am assuming they are comparing your results to typical Mobil 1 results.
Note that your iron levels are higher with only 3750 miles than what is typical for the "oil type" with 4900 miles.
Also note that your oil has considerably less amounts of Boron, Phosphorus and Zinc at 3750 miles than what is typical for this "oil type" at 4900 miles. These elements are all added as anti wear additives and friction reducers. Typically, the higher the number the better. What this is telling me is that perhaps the oil is breaking down faster than a previous formulation of Mobil 1 (If they did in fact change this). You also have considerably lower amounts of Calcium and Magnesium. These additives have several functions in oil, one of which is lubrication.
If I am reading this correctly, Mobil 1 is a good motor oil but it is not doing as good a job of protecting the engine when compared to the Universal Averages for this "oil type". I would love to know what "oil type" this engine oil is classified as, whether synthetic or synthetic blend. Until I can come up with additional proof I will still say it is still a full synthetic.
I have been thinking of switching to Amsoil for some time now, but still currently use Mobil 1. After a little more research I will probably switch to Amsoil. What I will do is an oil analysis of my Mobil 1 at next oil change and switch to Amsoil. At the next change I will do another analysis of the Amsoil and see which I like better. That's really the only way for me to know for sure.
The Universal Averages Column indicates typical levels that are common with 4900 miles on that particular "oil type". I am using quotations because no where is it indicated what "type" of oil it is except at the top where Mobil 1 5/30 is indicated. I am assuming they are comparing your results to typical Mobil 1 results.
Note that your iron levels are higher with only 3750 miles than what is typical for the "oil type" with 4900 miles.
Also note that your oil has considerably less amounts of Boron, Phosphorus and Zinc at 3750 miles than what is typical for this "oil type" at 4900 miles. These elements are all added as anti wear additives and friction reducers. Typically, the higher the number the better. What this is telling me is that perhaps the oil is breaking down faster than a previous formulation of Mobil 1 (If they did in fact change this). You also have considerably lower amounts of Calcium and Magnesium. These additives have several functions in oil, one of which is lubrication.
If I am reading this correctly, Mobil 1 is a good motor oil but it is not doing as good a job of protecting the engine when compared to the Universal Averages for this "oil type". I would love to know what "oil type" this engine oil is classified as, whether synthetic or synthetic blend. Until I can come up with additional proof I will still say it is still a full synthetic.
I have been thinking of switching to Amsoil for some time now, but still currently use Mobil 1. After a little more research I will probably switch to Amsoil. What I will do is an oil analysis of my Mobil 1 at next oil change and switch to Amsoil. At the next change I will do another analysis of the Amsoil and see which I like better. That's really the only way for me to know for sure.
Last edited by PAIXAO; Jan 3, 2009 at 04:54 PM.







