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This is not 1969. We have dual weight oils and ecu's now.
I run M1 0W40. It wouldn't matter if I lived in Alaska. Start the car, oil is up to full pressure in a couple seconds at most.
Originally Posted by EncoreCestMoi
These engines don't need to be warmed up. Starting it and letting it idle running all rich is worse than just going.This is not 1969. We have dual weight oils and ecu's now.
I run M1 0W40. It wouldn't matter if I lived in Alaska. Start the car, oil is up to full pressure in a couple seconds at most.
This may be true, but remember, in Alaska the temperature is severely cold. In cold temperatures, things get cold and one of those things are metals. Now between the fluctuation of the operating temperatures of metals (cold-hot-cold), metals are known to expand and contract.
So I would personally allow my motor, which is made out of metal, to expand in the winter before I drive it.
But I may be wrong, correct me if so.
Jeff92se
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There is no basis for that statement. The ecu goes though it's cold start program until the CTS tells the ecu the temp is up and it's time to start the closed loop program. Originally Posted by g35dude420
I agree with wise plus I notice mine just runs better if I let it warm up.
Unless you are stating you can tell the difference in after warm up performance of letting it sit there until warm vs driving gently after a few seconds of idling.
If not, then what you are experiencing is the car's performance during different stages of the ecu's cold start to closed loop pre-determined ign/fuel tables
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*slithers in cautiously walking on egg shells* 
Summer: 10-30 sec
Winter: 10-30 sec to a minute. If window fogged, well obviously it idles longer with defroster on, until I can see out the windshield safely.
And drive her mellow even after op temp reached for a bit.
Just because your coolant temp is up to normal, doesn't mean your oil temp is yet <-- yes normal oil temp does matter.
My 02 Peace out...
*slithers out door*

Summer: 10-30 sec
Winter: 10-30 sec to a minute. If window fogged, well obviously it idles longer with defroster on, until I can see out the windshield safely.
And drive her mellow even after op temp reached for a bit.
Just because your coolant temp is up to normal, doesn't mean your oil temp is yet <-- yes normal oil temp does matter.
My 02 Peace out...
*slithers out door*
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i honestly dont get this thread, i had an I30, sprayed with 100 shot of nitrous as a daily driver...whenever it was cold id beat the crap out of it whenever it was warm id beat the crap out of it. Bringing it close to 7k, (MEVI) Jeff will know what im talking about. And i had it till 220k, sold it to my buddy who daily drives it still. That car was mine from day one and it earned a hard living. VQ motors are amazing pieces of technology, i really dont think we require anymore than a 20-30 second warm up
Jeff92se
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Summer: 10-30 sec
Winter: 10-30 sec to a minute. If window fogged, well obviously it idles longer with defroster on, until I can see out the windshield safely.
And drive her mellow even after op temp reached for a bit.
Just because your coolant temp is up to normal, doesn't mean your oil temp is yet <-- yes normal oil temp does matter.
My 02 Peace out...
*slithers out door*
I think the oil temp is a very valid consideration. Problem is there is not oil temp guage in our Gs. Off hand, I don't know if it takes longer for the oil to warm (to get it out of it's winter rated viscosity) or the water temp (after the thermostat opens)Originally Posted by V35 Skyline GT
*slithers in cautiously walking on egg shells* 
Summer: 10-30 sec
Winter: 10-30 sec to a minute. If window fogged, well obviously it idles longer with defroster on, until I can see out the windshield safely.
And drive her mellow even after op temp reached for a bit.
Just because your coolant temp is up to normal, doesn't mean your oil temp is yet <-- yes normal oil temp does matter.
My 02 Peace out...
*slithers out door*
Jeff92se
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So I would personally allow my motor, which is made out of metal, to expand in the winter before I drive it.
But I may be wrong, correct me if so.
But the OP and the majority of us (including you) don't live in Alaska. Extreme weather conditions dictate special operating procedures, not a general operational change for everyone. If you live where it's WARM all the time, one wouldn't even need a multi-viscosity oil but I wouldn't recommend that for everyone. Originally Posted by wise-1
This may be true, but remember, in Alaska the temperature is severely cold. In cold temperatures, things get cold and one of those things are metals. Now between the fluctuation of the operating temperatures of metals (cold-hot-cold), metals are known to expand and contract. So I would personally allow my motor, which is made out of metal, to expand in the winter before I drive it.
But I may be wrong, correct me if so.
Yes you're car is metal. But unless you are talking about different metals with different characteristics regarding their temp contraction/expansion (which you aren't) the metals should all be contracting and expanding at relatively the same time/amount.
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I get a fat girl to sit on my car for a while before I even start it. Then after I start, I have her go in the cabin and mouth breathe for a while to make sure it's warm inside too. And I live in Texas, so it gets really nice and warm in there.
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I'm betting you've never started up a car and driven away at below zero temps. Oil pressure or not, cars don't seem to like it. A lot of it is driveline issues which don't get warmed up until you actually drive for a bit, but it's still almost a necessity to warm the car. Almost everyone here lets their car run for 5-10 min or more.Originally Posted by EncoreCestMoi
I run M1 0W40. It wouldn't matter if I lived in Alaska. Start the car, oil is up to full pressure in a couple seconds at most.
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Originally Posted by Jeff92se
But the OP and the majority of us (including you) don't live in Alaska.
You should try waking up to -30 degree's centigrade, turning your car on and driving it after 10 seconds.
-30 degrees centigrade = -22 degrees Fahrenheit.
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-30 degrees centigrade = -22 degrees Fahrenheit.
Move southOriginally Posted by wise-1
You should try waking up to -30 degree's centigrade, turning your car on and driving it after 10 seconds. -30 degrees centigrade = -22 degrees Fahrenheit.
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Originally Posted by Jeff92se
I think the oil temp is a very valid consideration. Problem is there is not oil temp guage in our Gs. Off hand, I don't know if it takes longer for the oil to warm (to get it out of it's winter rated viscosity) or the water temp (after the thermostat opens)
I've also mentioned oil temp before. A concern of mine you completely disregarded. Why the sudden change in your prior disagreement?
Not to stab at you but why, after bashing me for this whole thread, have you brought in this new light of knowledge into your argument?
Jeff92se
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Not to stab at you but why, after bashing me for this whole thread, have you brought in this new light of knowledge into your argument?
No you haven't. You mentioned oil weight, oil pressure and only oil temp in the relation to the o2 sensor (which was false). Originally Posted by wise-1
I've also mentioned oil temp before. A concern of mine you completely disregarded. Why the sudden change in your prior disagreement?Not to stab at you but why, after bashing me for this whole thread, have you brought in this new light of knowledge into your argument?
So I haven't changed my mind, view or stance in the slightest.
But did you miss the part where I mentioned
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Extreme weather conditions dictate special operating procedures, not a general operational change for everyone. If you live where it's WARM all the time, one wouldn't even need a multi-viscosity oil but I wouldn't recommend that for everyone.
I think you did but I'm not sure how as you quoted part of that reply so Extreme weather conditions dictate special operating procedures, not a general operational change for everyone. If you live where it's WARM all the time, one wouldn't even need a multi-viscosity oil but I wouldn't recommend that for everyone.

