Hey guys i was looking though the import tuner and on the last page theres this thing call e-RAM. its like an electrical wannabe fan connected with the intake. Anyone ever heard of this???? its at www.electricsupercharger.com. It smells to me like a load of crap. UP TO 15HP! right

1 psi boost can at most increase air density by 6.8% less any rise in air temperature which will decrease density by 1% [of all the air flow] for each 11F rise.

The electric motor is in the air path, so there will definitely be a rise in temperature.

The net effect will be worse than a mechanically supercharger for the same boost say 3-4% at best.

The problem is the units are designed for very small displacement engines so on a 3.5 liter less than 0.5 psi will be obtainable.
A DENSITY corrected 1.5 - 2% gain ~~ 3.9- 5 HP.

They hope you don't understand Physics to sell you one!

A real mechanical supercharger has a density corrected efficiency [power boost] of 4-4.5 % per 1.0 psi without an intercooler and around 5.25-5.8% with an effective one.

I've got 2 of them hooked up and working.........
On my BOAT.
That is nothing but a marine bildge blower!

"I like you.....You remind me of myself when I was young and foolish"

Anyone who would purchase one of these pathetic products may also be interested in the following:

1. Timeshares
2. The "Tornado"
3. Amway/Multi-level marketing
4. Tony Robbins motivational cd's

Q,
I know this is O.T. but do you know where the outside temperature sensor is located in the G35? I understand that the ECU adjusts timing, in part, based on the measured outside air temp. Correct? Do you know how much the ECU can shift timing based on outdoor ambient temps?

Thanks,
Tony


2004 G35 6MT Blk/Blk Sedan Stillen Air, Stillen Exhaust

The ambient air sensor is inside the MAF housing.
Consider the fuel temperature [in tank sensor] and the coolant temp sensor as a group to double and triple check each other.
Also the AC on signal - all designed to tell ecu when it is warm outside.

On the older Q45 a coolant temp of 195F was the pivot point where 1.0 degree of advance was dediucted, every 5F above that another 1.0 degrees wass deduced to a maximum of 5 degrees at 215F coolant temp. No real ambient air sensor just a signal from AC on and a rough backup by AC ambient sensor [slow to resolve and change].

My guess is 90F ambient reading by MAF air temp sensor or lower with AC on - signals some progressive retard. The G35 thermostat opens at 5F hotter so maybe the coolant retard starts at 200F instead of 195F.

All a system of checks to protect against a single sensor error. Or owner attempts to fool the ecu.

One of my Q secrets is a massive thicker [more internal volume] custom Griffin radiator that makes it almost impossible for my Q to get above 195F even in stalled traffic.

The coolant temp on both is measured as the water flows from the heads so very accurate predictor of cylinder head temperature.

The fuel temp sensor is necessary to accurately correct the injector pulse for density variations due to temperature.

Just use a Consult or OBD2 scanner to data log the ignition advance changes as the rpm increases vs temp to see what happening. Something near 28 segrees above 6,000 rpm would be expected without knock or temperature based retard.

Later than optimum timing [where 66% of fuel is burned at 14-17 degrees after top dead center] results in more exhaust valve heat, which raises the coolant temp...........so it is possible with too much retard to avoid knocking that the engine and system will go into thermal runaway.

But then again few are road racing the G35 in ultra summer heat for hours at WOT ..........then you need a real radiator.

Just hook a leaf blower up to the plenum ,

j/k

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